YES. Turn the assembly over, ( which I shouldl have done when taking the picture ) and you'll see how it kinda slides off the plunger. It takes just a little effort, and it lets go.

 

That makes sense, my trunk got locked when I manually raised my top and closed the trunk before using the allen wrench to lock down my back windows.

 

These may take a little longer to use, but are much easier to carry in your pockets.

http://zombiehunters.org/wiki/index.php/Can_Opener

 

I just did both of these mods, thanks for the heads up/info!

After I was finished I didnt like the look of the trim piece without the handle, just a hole where it used to be, so I took the cable completely out of the handle and just stuck the handle back into the trim. Looks like factory but I know there is nothing left there to screw up my chances of entering the trunk when I want/need to.

 

Hi All,
The other day I was putting my roof up and it beeped many times after the roof was in place. I have not been able to open the trunk since then or put the roof down. I too am having issues with the clips keeping the divider in place. I will remedy that as soon as I get the trunk open. I don't have the universal tool for the car to open or close the toner cover etc. When I try to put the roof down after release and pushing the roof up the 8 inches) I hear one beep, (which is what I have heard when the divider is not in position). When pressing the fob twice to unlock trunk I hear the whirl of the pneumatic lock opening. I can also press to re lock that pneumatic lock. When I engage the lock to open, it makes a release sound but the latch will not physically release, it's locked by that electrical lock mechanism that locks when the top is going up or down. Question: can you reset that from ignition? I thought I read something in a thread about how to depressurize or release the lock by unlatch roof, turning key in ignition and waiting for another beep?
Please help, Thanks a million... I just forked out $2100 last month for that faulty sticky ignition.

 

If you can't put the top up/down, and you can't open the trunk, it is likely that the electric cam has the trunk locked AND that the trunk is not fully closed.

Have a friend push the button while you press down firmly on the trunklid, this may cause the 'trunk open sensor' to finally indicate a closed trunk, allowing the top to move.

When the decklid opens, let of of the button adn you can then climb in and work on the trunk latch problem, if necessary.

 

Look by your license plate and see the lights, remove the light on the right side take a flash light and look in the hole, you'll see this white accoridan looking thing, take a screw driver and either push or pull it ( I don't remember if it goes the left or the right) and it will pop the trunk open. You can then manually put your top down. My husband had to disconnect the motor to the top for a few minutes to get it to reset to factory default.
good luck with it!!

 

I tried that two years ago and it didn't work for me, either I couldn't get the light out or I couldn't see up in there. Can't remember which.

(My current roadster has the clip removed - did it first week I had the car!)

 

It worked like a top for me, someone on this forum suggested it. Chrysler had my car for a week without being able to get the trunk opened. (Not real sure how hard they tried). They wanted to pull out the seats, drill through the back panel (and this is a direct quote, "Find some leprechauns that are small enough to get back in there to pull the handle).
Anyway we picked the car up brought it home, and using the directions had the trunk opened and the top working again in less than 10 minutes.
My car is a 2006 roadster LTD, don't know if that has anything to do with why it worked for us and not you or not.

 

I got in the trunk finally by removing the right license plate light and going through there with a screw driver to push the electric lock accordion thing while trying the lock handle on the outside. It was because my divider thing had fallen down while putting roof up, the lock never unlocked after the 23 seconds. My roof goes up/down and trunk releases no problem now. I have decided not to modify because i can still get in the trunk with this fix. Thanks guys! I love my car again.

 

Hi would anybody know why my exterior lights flashing and my trunk or my gas door will open?

 

I"ve got to get to bed, but would you like to elaborate? WHAT lights are flashing? WHen are they flashing? ANd you you mean your trunk AND gas door WON'T OPEN?


I"ll be back tomorrow evening some time..

 

Bump for me.
And don't store the multifunction tool, if you have one, which I don't, in the trunk.

 

Hello All,
Let me first start by saying thank you for this excellent guide!
I was able to open my trunk again after it getting stuck for the second time (first time cost me like 500 bucks at the dealer as he said the latch needed replacing lol)

Let me describe my situation, I'm having the same problem many seem to be having. When trying to open the convertible roof, the trunk locks and I am unable to open it again. As to why it does not go down to begin with I am unsure. Are others unable to get the roof to go down either? I unlock the top, push the button, the windows go down but it just keeps beeping as though something is not in place or something. Flap in trunk is up and secured in position. I haven't tried again since unlocking the trunk by pulling back the according thing. My feeling is something is not properly registering and I think everything stems from this secondary lock.

I have seen posts indicating that the black piece at the end of the clear plastic accordion should be removed in order to prevent the lock from engaging again when the roof tries to open. But then I thought I also saw posts indicating that this should not be done? So I'm just a little confused as to whether I should do this or not and what the consequences of my actions will be?

 

Removing the thing on the end of the electric trunk lock prevents the trunklid from jamming - so do it.

Now, if the top won't move as you describe, the most likely cause is the top open switch above the passenger's head or the divider switch in the trunk.
My experience has been that IF it is the top open switch, it will be obvious, as they tend to fall apart - turn the latch, push the top up away from the frame, get out and go around to the side and look in the hinge above the passenger's head - you will see the little switch.

 

CLEARLY a good point. The tool and hex key wrench belong in the flap between the seats!

Click here for manual operation instructions:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...operation.html

 

My 2008 Crossfire Convertible has locked up and the mechanic is unable to access the trunk from the exterior. Is anybody aware of an external access?

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post614955

 

This is often the electric lock that only activates for a short time when the top is moving.
Try putting the top down/up once and see if it clears.

If it is the Hydralic lock, then you can get in by opening the top part way and folding the divider down and crawling in there - that's how I did it!

If the truck latch button is "free" it's the hydralic lock - if the button wont move when you try to open the turnk, it's the electric lock.

 

At the risk of sounding redundant, every Xfire owner should do "Pizza's Mod" as I will call it and never look back.

There is really no down side to this mod. Not sure it the top will operate with the trunk lid open once this mod is done. If so, one should be aware of that. Save the plastic thingy too for if and when the car is sold.

Happy motoring all!