[QUOTE=leaddog2015;868349]It is a bit of a pain but you can do it. Been there done it.

With the light housing out you can see the locking mechanism. Look for the electric lock plunger (circled in red) and use a screwdriver to move it to the right. This will release the electric lock. Then use the screwdriver to actuate the trunk latch be pushing the sliver lever down. You can spot the latch left of the electric lock. Am I going thru the drivers side or passenger side? Ive tried looking for plunger but cant seem to find it

 

Ok, if you take out the DRIVERS side lamp, use a metal coat hanger formed into a small j-hook at one end. Go way in, rotate the hanger and start pulling it out - you are trying to snag the wire cable that the emergency release handle is attached to. Pull on it and the lid will pop open. It is way in there, you cant SEE it but you can get to it with a j hook.


Now, what the gent above is saying i have never tried but it sounds promising. Take the PASSENGER side light out and (I don't think it is in there very far) follow his instructions to force the plunger to the passenger side of the car, so the trunk unlocks.

 

My god don't take it to a dealer, you'd be better off taking it to any local garage and seeing if they can figure it out.

Keep in mind (and again, Im' not there, I don't know what the issue here is) that there are two locks on the trunk. The electric one is the one this thread is about and has been known to not fully retract, leaving the trunk locked.

B ut the pnuematic lock COULD fail, or the hose may come off it, etc. THat is why I use the emergency release method - it is SUPPOSED to bypass EITHER lock, again, by federal law.

 

I'll give it another try. Thank you gents for all the advice and help. Ive tried to get at this cable release a few times with a hook tool but will try a hanger as it will be longer. If that doesnt work I'll look for the plunger again. Will post later how it goes. This is a real bummer lol. Although I'm not maintenance savy I can do some basic things. I jave cjanged my serpentine, the oil housing unit light bulbs. So not to bad for a girly girl lol

 

Hi everyone. I have my top down and can access the emergency cable, but it wont release.

Lock sounds like its unlocking, but the trunk latch handle moves some, but will not open. Idk what i did either, i.e. Something stuck in locking mech. Ugggg.

A solution would b a GOD SEND.

thanks everyone in advance for any help.

 

At least its summer, and my top is down. Yeah, but eventually il need it up.

 

NOt really enough information here.

Can you clarify:

Just how are you getting to the release? Are your going in thru the license plate/tag light hole? And why can't you put the top up? You make is SOUND like it is like my failure back in 2009 - the trunk would not open, but it also was not closed all the way - so the system would not allow the top to move because a not-fully-closed trunk keeps the top pump motor from running. If this is the case, then do what I did - have someone push down HARD on the trunk lid, hopefully forcing it down enough the sensor trips and you can put the top up.

THEN, you can deal with the trunk - remember what I did - I got the deck lid to raise up, got the top out of the way, that is, partly up - and crawled in and laid on my back and worked on my truck lid issue.

I'll be back on here tomorrow night.

 

HOLY CRAP I READ THIS WHOLE THING!!!! I can't believe how many years this thread has been pulled up VERY COOL..... Well Here's were I'm at after a full day of messing with why my top will not go down. Windows come down I can not hear the electric lock in the trunk work I just get a beep...05 SRT roadster. I went right off and jumped the divider switch. Found the two wires for my trunk latch micro switch and jumped those, made sure my passenger side switch IS engaging... still windows go down flashing light and a beep.....no actuator sound. Pulled electric actuator out, remove black plastic piece re installed with it all the way out....tried it same thing....manually moved the actuator in....same thing...

SO for tomorrow, its trying to "ground" jump the passenger side roof switch to see if I hear the lock in the back. IF not It is probably the actuator switch itself or the roof module...UGH... Wish I knew which wires to ground on the actuator.... then I would figure out its probably the top module..... definitely keeping me busy didn't spend any money yet......LOL

 

I had a similar problem. At the TMS "Laps for Charity" last weekend, I was about to go on the track and I wanted to run with the top down. Hit the switch, unlocked the "D" handle and pressed the switch, heard trunk unlock, then nothing more happened. Eventually got the trunk opened and after a trip to autozone for an "6mm Allen Key" locked the top in the up position and rode the track like that. Now at home trying to go through the system systematically. Undo the "D" latch, press the button for "Top Down", windows go down, hear trunk lock open, then as before, nothing. So unlatch switch in windscreen header O.K.
Now to look at the switch by passenger side ear level. Thought I would remove and check. **** my "Metric Allen Key" set is in the trunk. BUT there is no way can I get the trunk to open. MUST keep trying.
I assume my problem to be with this switch at the passenger side. ????

 

Either that, or the switch integrated into the trunk latch assembly.




and this is what tells the windows to go down when you turn the D handle :

 

Thanks ala_xfire for the diagrams. I am making a little progress. Windows go down when "D" handle released. Checked switch at passenger Ear level, seem to be O.K. When I press switch on center console back lid unlatches and if I press again hard. the rear of the hood (with the rear window) raises BUT then nothing, As it is HOT in Houston today, as usual. that was me done for the day. I will continue my investigation when time permits. Thanks Again for the Diagrams.

 

That last post tells me the pump runs and the "bow" (the part of the top that contains the rear window) raises - but it does not go any farther. IF I have this right, then:

• If the pump still runs, but nothing is moving - I'd say you have low fluid (which also means you have a leak somewhere)
• If the pump quits running when the bow goes up and nothing more happens, I'd guess a travel sensor on one of the cylinders is bad.

 

So, went thru ALL the described steps. Have not pulled out the 14 bolts (or the 4 torch screws) to get to mechanism, but have electric actuator in my hand and emergency release re-jury rigged to open trunk...WHY? Because release above license plate is either loose or completely disconnected! Why did Diamler, VDO and Webasto cheese this up with plastic components???. At least my fingers FEEL plastic. What does the handle hook up to "load" or pop the Trunk? I could certainly use a diagram. Lithia Chrysler parts kid looks at me like I'm from another dimension and says "By the time you get thru buying parts for that p.o.s. you could put a down payment on that Challenger Hellcat!" They offered me $60,000 out the door if I'd give up the Crossfire. I envision being wrapped around a tree in the Hellcat. Happy with being stuck in the driveway with the Roadster. Help with the diagram and maybe a part or two please?

 

Try closing the latch with a screwdriver shaft (while trunk is open). The release handle will feel loose if the latch is open. If it is still loose in the closed position, then you've got an issue with mechanism. Here is a photo of the rotating cam.

 

Here is the e-release connection/ arm

 

I'm gonna guesstimate the white portion of that mechanism is broken. The latch isn't connected to anything and I'm guessing previous owner didn't have much patience with his parts guy either! Thanks for the pic. Looks like this might be a long couple of days manually taking the top up and down.

 

Here is the service manual schematic of the latch connector/cam

 

Looks like this is the part:

• Manufacturer: Mopar
• Part Number: 5174402AA
• Part: Lock
• Replaces: 5161316AA, 5098273AA

 

Thanks for diagram and info! Yup, cam is GONE. I live in Pocatello ID, kinda in the way of the eclipse, so a parts run gets to wait till Tuesday. Thanks to all involved for the continuing thread on this. Being able to "manual and reset" top keeps the girlfriend quiet till she finds the next problem. (LED CHMSL) I'm thinking that's just raising the spoiler and re soldering a connection or two.

 

Not so ! It is a sealed unit. You will need to send it to ledfix.com in Tennessee.