Chrysler wants $3,900, said it's the pump....Took it to an indepentant dealer to have the micro switch checked in the trunk and when I returned the tech said he couldn't check it and asked me if I had an test meter....I give up! I still think its the switch where the divider is put up in the trunk. That has always been tempermental and it was working before I last put the divided down in the stowed position. Does anyone know of anyone in the Gulf Coast that works on convertable tops?

Thanks In Advance For Any Help...Dennis
678-897-8493

 

You could give this a shot for $14.99 if you think it's the micro switch Chrysler Crossfire LH Cargo Divider Bracket w/Switch - eBay (item 300468166860 end time Feb-11-11 17:39:59 PST)
I made an offer for $9.00 and they accepted it.

 

Try unplugging the two wires from the switch and shorting them together, effectively bypassing the switch temporarily. This should tell you a lot and go from there.

Tired

 

[quote=TiredRetired]Try unplugging the two wires from the switch and shorting them together, effectively bypassing the switch temporarily. This should tell you a lot and go from there.

Tired[/quote}
There's someone thinking straight.

 

TiredRetired:
Are you retired Navy?

MCPO

 

This string is from 2011, eleven years ago.

 

You mean the switch on the console??

 

Looking for some input to troubleshooting I am performing on 2007 Crossfire Roadster who’s top will not go down or up.

I have reviewed the information in this post, found it helpful but am still having issues, and would appreciate any input y’all have.

When I turn the D handle to release the roof from the windshield the windows do not go down the 2 inches

I started there checking the Latch Retainer Switch, getting satisfactory continuity and voltage at pin 16 of C1 on the PTCM (checked at the connector itself), so this switch is SAT.

Next was to check the Divider Switch connection, reading the info and determining this switch is in series with the Roof Open Switch, I checked both, getting continuity and correct voltages at pin 7 of C1 on the PTCM (checked at connector)

Next thought things may have been out of sync, performing the operation noted in this post, I was not successful, the hydraulics would look the top in whatever position I was coming out of. Started the car, pulled the fuse, waited 30 sec, put the fuse back in, performed manual open of the top, tried the switch in the car, nothing (solid red light), so then tried to manually put the top back up and got as far a moving the bow then the hydraulics locked the system and we would need to pull the fuse to release pressure before being able to complete the process, once we were able to get the top back up the button in the car would flash red.

I am thinking of getting a new PTCM and trying that, maybe the sensor information isn’t getting to the right place?



Any input would be helpful

 

Have you checked the fluid level? Do the door windows go down? If not, it's the switch in the frame above the windshield

 

Thanks for replaying

Yes the windows go down and up with the switch in the car (regular function) the do not go down when the D ring is disengaged from the windshield/frame.
The Latch Retainer Switch/Sensor was checked for continuity and voltage and both were correct and reading satisfactory, so this is not the problem
The fluid level of the hydraulics is at the MIN line - do you know the fluid used?

 

Pizzaguy Quote:

Im not on here much these days, I work way too many hours, but I do have input for you. You are doing pretty good with your attempts at troubleshooting, but I think I see a mistake you are making.

Here is how I check that pin:

Start engine.
With top "closed" or "up", measure the voltage at that pin, it MUST be zero.
Now, turn the D handle and push the top away from the windshield frame.

You should now measure bias voltage, I can't remember what it is, I think it's 5 volts but it may be higher. This rise in voltage causes the PTCM to tell the BCM to lower the windows, but not two inches, it lowers them all the way down.
If you have no voltage, CUT THE WIRE about two inches from the connector. Does the pin now have voltage? If so, your issue is the switch or the wire is shorted to ground somewhere. If you have NO voltage with the wire cut, the PTCM is not generating bias voltage. This can be a bad PTCM, but PTCMs rarely fail. Verify good supply voltage at C1-pin 10, if you have good voltage here, I might concede the PTCM is bad.

Here is the thing:
1) If the windows do not go down when you turn that handle, you can FORGET: fluid levels,sync, the divider switch, the top open switch, the phase of the moon, and all the (bad) advice people are giving you. If the windows do not go down, the issue involves the PTCM, it's power, the wiring to that ONE switch and nothing else. Turning the D handle, with the engine running, MUST result in the windows going down.

2) If you are working on this without the engine running, you are wasting your time.

 

Where did you find that? I thought I posted it in THIS thread.
I don't undersatnd what went wrong.

 

I found it in another thread where you said you have been very busy and don't get on here much anymore. Your wisdom has always been appreciated.

 

This string.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...sensors-7.html