It seems to be getting all of the power required, but when the clutch is depressed and I try to turn the ignition, there's nothing. My husband believes it may be a safety mechanism when the clutch is depressed, it's not registering. Any suggestions?

We had it towed home and are, also, looking for a workaround to get it started to drive it in for repairs.

 

Automatic myself, so don't know about the safety interlock.. but it could also be the RCM.. click on the video link in my signature.

 

Reading the codes would be the first thing to get you STARTED - a pun - but a starting point.Woody

Any lights ??

 

Just followed the instructiions on repairing the RCM. Resoldered the 3 connections and inspected the rest. Posted as my wife's old ID over in that thread (vbitsone). Car will now turn over and start 3-4 times but will not continue to run. After 3-4 attempts, it's back to the same behavior, click, not starter engage. If I pull the negative terminal, let it sit 30 seconds or so and reconnect, we can repeat the pattern. Any other thoughts?

 

Skreen....haven't heard of this issue for awhile...Skreen module threads are on here somewhere...about starting running then dying.. Does it idle rough when it does run...as a problem with the crankshaft position sensor will do? That is a cheap fix if it is the CPS. But it may be the other problem which isn't a quick or easy fix.... So, without rambling on, I would replace the CPS...first...
There is a safety switch on the clutch peddle. It must be functioning properly as well...depress clutch all the way down as well...

 

Okay may be way off base here.. but when towed home.. was the tow switch enabled? I don't know if that would enable the anti theft or not .. but just a thought.

 

Sorry, should have mentioned, no codes repoort by ODB, all other electrical working fine. When it won't turn over, there are 2 clicks. I can also hear the fuel pump. I don't think the probelm is related to the RCM fix that I performed. Seemsd that any time I remove the negative terminal, let it set 30 seconds or so, and then reapply power, I can get it to crank/start but not continue to run for 3-4 attempts and then back to the click and no turn/start.

 

We had it brought home on a flat bed, but no the tow switch was not engaged. I thought about the antitheft as well. But see other posts on start, no run, then baclk to to click-click, no start.

 

Sounds like a fuel filter / fuel pump / water in the fuel issue to me ......
just my 2 cents .....

If it starts after a reset and does not continue to run and there are no codes, then fuel is the normal suspect .....

 

Thanks, and I'll check but given the exact repeatable nature of this and the fact it happened all of a sudden, the fuel filter doesnt' seem liekly to be the cuplrit. I'd expect more intermitent symptoms forming a more generic pattern.

PS - VICKI = VBITSONE, logging off vbitsone account in the garage. Wife started new account for some reason

 

My guess for what it's worth is that there is a problem with the SKREEM module or the halo around the ignition keyhole.

If the wire from the ignition switch halo ring is disconnected the car will not start.

If the SKREEM module is broken the car will not start.

I think you have stated that you have tried more than one key, so the key chips are presumably OK.

I am not sure if these problems set a code though.

 

I was thinking sticky ignition switch was where I had recently read about the 3 attempt no start. Just wondering if when you thought the clutch pedal interlock was the issue if you didn't by chance accidently disconnect the wire on the transponder ring.. but you never mentioned doing anything in the area on the clutch pedal..

 

When she first called me yesterday, the sudden nature of the fault made me think of some interlock with a plastic piece suddenly breaking. Had that happen on my shift interlock on my Magnun, the clutch switch on my toyota and the shift sensor WAY BACK on my '69 Falcon!!!! I never persued the problem but will go look for loose wires..

This is getting frustrating. I long for a car from the 50-60's again!!!!

Please, keep the ideas coming. At least in all the other situations listed, I was able to find a way to manually override the problem, get the vehicle started, and drive it until I was able to repair!!! I'd hate to have to pay for a tow to the nearest place I trust!!!

 

After trying to read everything I could find, checking all the wires, cables, fuses, solder joints, .... I did see one procedure semi related to the SKREEM I thought I'd try out of desparation. I've connected the trickle charger, turned the key to the second click (ON), and unless I get some other advice, I'll see if anything is better in 3 hours!!! Not making any bets!!!!!

EDIT - OK, looking to be the SKREEM. Any tips to access it??????


Found the 3 start issues finally; SCCASRT6 replaced the SKREEM to fix (https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post694205)GDC-SRT says here - https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tely-horn.html

 

Exactly what I was thinking when I asked if the key switch had ever been removed or replaced. It was Howard IBLUBYU that had the wire come off his halo after the repair.

 

Any tips on how to get to the SKREEM module? Is there a HOW-TO someplace I've missed?

THANKS!

 

It is under the dash, look in the Repair Manual for info on this. The 2004 manual is best for your car.

 

I believe more accurately, the SKREEM (aptly named huh, you tend to want to scream when this thing screws up) is located behind the instrument cluster. There is a bunch o stuff that has to be removed (if I remember correctly) to access it. Also, isn't there a problem with having to have a proceedure done with a scan tool after it is replaced? Most of what I am offering here is a nagging feeling from reading a few too many posts a while ago. Good luck Vicki, if it is the SKREEM module I suspect you may need it.

 

In my book even the instrument cluster is under the dash.

 

One of the threads he "vicki" linked to indicated success with a used skreem module .. key on.. battery charger.. and 3 hours later the car was happy.. Otherwise the manual states secret code that has to be programmed in (from the skreem unit) .. otherwise matching "new" keys to add to the tab.