If the Electric Lock Arm is engaged and you try to pull on the emergency release cable it's not going to be able to flip the pneumatic lock lever because of the Electric Lock Arm. This is when the emergency release mechanism will break off, if you pull hard on the cable.
I just rebuilt the emergency release mechanism on a Roadster this morning. It works great and is probably stronger than the original.

 

In the last video that you posted, you can see a little portion of the accordion section of the Secondary Electric Lock Actuator Arm. I wonder if you can access it with a large screwdriver and try to pull the Arm back towards the module (right). You might have to push on the accordion section fairly hard as you pull it to the right.
(I just tested this on the Roadster that I have opened up and, yes if you put enough pressure on the square shaft inside the accordion section you can pull it back in small increments.) It doesn't have to be backed out very far before the pneumatic lock lever can be flipped to the open position.
If you can disengage the Secondary Electric Lock Actuator Arm from the Pneumatic Lock Lever, then maybe you can go to the left license plate light opening and grab the Emergency Release Cable and pull it carefully.
If the Secondary Electric Lock Arm is still engaged then don't pull hard on the Emergency Release Cable or you can break the Emergency Release Mechanism that flips the Pneumatic lock lever.

 

I thought that's how I got into my car back in 2009 when I was locked out. I just read the thread, NO. Not how I did it. My lid was ajar and I had the neighbor press the button while I pressed down on the lid - and the top cycled.
I think my emergency latch cam broke, perhaps, due to my forcing it, just as you said.

 

I did actually try to tease the cam open but there’s not enough of it to get any movement.

 

Are the security panels metal or something softer. It almost looks like the same material as the trunk liner.
In your video, it looks like the end closest to the Secondary Electric Lock Actuator Arm is jagged.
Maybe with a large metal curved pick, you could hook the end and bend it away from the Secondary Electric Lock Actuator Arm.

 

It’s pretty solid. Feels thick, not the flimsy stuff.

 

Have a look at these images. I've attempted to capture an image of you video where you need to insert Screwdriver. Between Yellow hose and back side of car.

 

Is the top fully seated?
The video shows that it isn't fully engaged. Just tossing darts but could that be causing your problem. Are you able to manually cycle the top down and up? Could the electric override be holding this up because the cycle hasn't been completed?

 

Again, throwing darts, the hydraulic lines in the roadster are behind the passenger seat.

 

I can'[ believe I missed this, but UrbanE has a GOOD point.

PRESSS DOWN HARD on the lid while a helper cycles the top. That may be your way out.

 

Read the thread - this option is not open to him.
His car has UK/EU anti theft mods, I could not believe it but that's the way it is.

 

Thank you so much for your efforts but because of the plates I simply can't get access to anything.

 

NO ONE is going to listen to you, even I didn't until it was proven.

We've simply N E V E R seen this in the USA.

 

************We did it 🕺🏼 Thank you 🙏***********

 

I merged your new post with this thread so people can follow what was going on.
It is obscene you had to do this, I'd bet UK members will be doing the electric lock disable NOW.

This was one for the books, this is UNHEARD OF in the USA.

 

Thanks Mark, I didn’t know where to post it. Hopefully this will help people in the future, just not sure where you store info like this.
Aware it’s the electric lock and not pneumatic but didn’t pick up until all uploaded…it’s a grey haired thing 😉
I’ll do the other video tomorrow, where shall I upload it to?
saying that, it’s really for us across the pond I guess.
I will go back in and cut the plates off on the left so I can access the pneumatic pipe at some point. Got a heap of issues to sort now though. Spoiler is up and won’t go down, most switches don’t seem to work either 🤦
Hey ho, got you lot to guide me so it’s not a lonely journey.
Thank you 🙏

 

I'd put it in this thread, in fact, I will make this a "sticky" Roaster thread.

A spoiler that wont act right can be the CLP/SSM or a weak battery or a goofy wheel speed sensor. We can work on that as you get time.

MODERATOR NOTE: Thread title edited, moderator note added to post 1.

 

Watch the video of him doing the deed! Thanks to Robert McCubbin for telling them where to drill, I sure was not about to !

 

I'm happy to see that you were successful in getting the boot opened.
Looking forward to seeing your video of those security plates. Hopefully it's just a few bolts holding them in place.

 

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GREAT JOB Haydyn. Been following this from the start. Quite a strange one for sure. This will be good for all UK roadsters! Again, GREAT JOB!


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