Once in a while mine seems like it doesnt want to shift into second and cuts power also. Sometimes it is so bad I need to let off completely and start again. Is this what you are feeling?

 

Yes, that sounds like the same issue, but I've never had a problem with it not going ahead and shifting into second. After the hard deceleration, I am always in second gear once power is regained. I can't say for sure which side of the shift the nose-dive is happening on, however. Might be happening before, and might be happening after. No way I can tell, but I am inclined to believe the guys who've posted above saying this is a stability control function. That would mean it is definitely happening directly AFTER the shift into second gear. The fact that it never happens at the drag strip is very telling. That definitely implies that this is a traction related issue.

 

AtomHeart, I was telling my wife about what your car was doing while we were on our way to dinner tonight, and suddenly it hit me. It's already been mentioned before, but I too believe it's your traction control kicking in and shutting you down because the tires are breaking loose on your 1,2 shift, and the slightest loss of traction can make it kick in even when it's turned off. It drives me nuts on my car when this occures and if somebody does come up with a way to turn it off without having to pull several fuses every time, that would be great.
Posi traction probably wouldn't help that much, because a car with Posi is actually more prone to "fish-tailing" than a car with an open rear end. Stickier tires might help, but with the power the SRT puts out, you would probably still find some pavement somewhere that would allow it to break loose.
I really believe, the easiest way around the problem is to find the solution (once and for all) to turn the darned traction control completely off, when ever you want to.
If all you need to do is pull a few fuses, then it may be as simple as installing a few interrupter switches in place of the key fuses, much like I did with the fuse that controls the motor that lifts my spoiler. Then when you get bored with "acting up", you can flip a switch to turn the traction control back on.

 

It ain't the TC on mine! It simply doesn't shift from time to time which in turn causes the engine to bounce off of the limiter. Watch the tach, it is always past redline . My 1-2 shifts vary 700 rpm even with good traction. I hate this auto trans and drive by wire.

 

Does anybody know exactly what fuses need to be deactivated to shut the TC down. I remember reading somewhere on the forum which ones they were, but I didn't write it down at the time. I never have any luck when ever I try to do a search, even when I know the name of the thread it still comes back "no match found".

 

I believe it's 17 and 18. I think there's a clip on You Tube showing this.

Just found it, not SRT 6 but probably the same fuses.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwRK97G2lFM

 

Well mine does it too and I can pretty much duplicate it at will. It usually happens between 1st and 2nd like AtomHeart says. The other day I was coming out of a school zone just cruising in 1st, when a Caddy XLR is coming up on me. I speed up just a little and barely into 2nd gear, when he hits my bumper I shift down to 1st and punch it, and BAM!!! Instead of shifting into 2nd it falls flat and a half second later I'm flying after him. I was running about 30mph when I shifted down to 1st, so it's redlines pretty fast after I shift down. I didn't lose tracton at all and I had my TC off, as I usually drive with it off. I caught him pretty quick and he smiled and punched it and then I punched while in 3rd. He pulled on me about to his door when I caught up and pulled away. He didn't want anymore after that. I would have smoked him if the dang thing wouldn't of pulled the "ol' I'm sleeping mode".
It has to be when it's within a second of shifting because on the track it don't do it. Regardless if you light up the tires. You can roast them all you want and it never falls flat. This is with the TC off. So it has to be with the tranny shifting, and the TC. With the TC on it's a different story. Just a flaw we have to get used to.
Cruzinquick

 

Mine does this also. It did it just the other day with fuses 17 and 18 pulled and I also have a custom tune from InMotion Tuning. It was at the 1-2 shift under full throttle, car started sideways, then it cut out and then back on hard sideways again in second. It did not cut out again in second. I too drag race the car and it has never done this at the track????

 

Hitting the rev limiter has nothing to do with TC. In both my N/A and S/C, hitting the rev is common from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration causing the cars to nose dive if doing the following.

1. Shifting after 5000 RPM
2. Driving auto around 20-40, suddenly accelerating hard then shifting into autostick.

The cars will shift automaticly from 1st to 2nd under those conditions and still hit the rev limiter. Notice hitting the rev limiter only causes the nose dive from 1st to 2nd, this does not happen from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th.

 

So basically the car doesn't like rolling starts. We'll just have to adjust our driving style.
Cruzinquick

 

I stated earlier in this thread that I'm working on a little circuit that will work off a remote control key fob. It will basicly open up a pair of relay's that will be normally closed. I've not recieved all the parts yet, working with the 40 amp circuit of the stability control you got to make sure the components are capable of handling breaking a set of contacts at 40 amps. As soon as I get this little circuit together I'll post up pic's & a list of parts I used to build it. This circuit will be like pulling fuses 17 & 18 under the hood with a remote control.

 

You I know I just found out my transmission is leaking and have no idea how long it's been going on. At least 3 weeks now, because it wasn't leaking when I changed the oil. I'm wondering if this is related at all to falling flat. Maybe my tranny is very low on fluid. Wouldn't a CEL come on? I know others have had the leak, but has anyone had the same problem at the same time. Just wondering if it's a coincidence or not.
Cruzinquick

 

What bikecop posted clearly doesn't make it out to be a traction control problem if it did it with fuses 17 and 18 pulled. That doesn't explain why it doesn't do it at the track, though, if its not traction control. It would be interesting to see if your shift points, or rev limit were moved in the InMotion tune you got for your ECU, Bikecop.

If it doesn't do it at the track, that is telling me clearly that its traction related, because your rev limiter would still be at the same point at a drag strip, and just as easy to hit...traction compount on the pavement below you, however, would keep your tires from starting to break loose and kick in any traction control.

This means that this is either the rev limiter causing this, as I had first thought, or...its a traction control element that is not even defeated with fuses 17 and 18. There could be a third layer to traction/stability control in these cars that controls the "limited slip" bahavior of the open rear end.

layer 1 = defeated by the button on the console
layer 2 = defeated by the removal of fuse 17 and 18
layer 3 = we still dont know how to defeat it

This is pretty confusing.

My tranny doesn't appear to be leaking, cruizinquik, but my car did sit in storage for 2.5 years before I bought it, so the transmission fluid could well be gummed up or less effective because of that. Maybe I could have my transmission fluid flushed and fresh fluid put in? Can that be done on this car? I heard it has a sealed transmission with no drain plug.

 

The tube is there on the side of the tranny, but it is plugged. So unless the dealer removes it, I don't see where else they fill it at. The pan will just have to come down to drain it. It may have a plug, I didn't look close enough. I jacked it up just to see where the leak was coming from. Mainly the front of the pan. The manual says to have it changed at 50,000 miles and then it's serviced for life. Per the manual. The fluid that is leaking looks surprising clean.
Cruzinquick

 

If you think you have rev problems now, then don't wait to get your leaky trans fixed. If you wait, under hard accl your tran will slip and you will free rev as if you were in N ( Almost had a HA when it happened to me at 80). Then you will have pull over and restart the car to reset the tran.

 

Referencing the tranny leak... there is a TSB on this issue, and it was some
what common. Take it to the dealer and they will replace a small seal near
the front of the transmission. If you already have this info, sorry to repeat.

Coyote

 

You need to get or borrow a G-Tech meter, it will plot out a graph of your RPM's going up and down. That may help you figure out what's going on.

 

Steve,

Any progress on that circuit to override/defeat the traction control system?