To my knowledge there are only 2 intakes for the srt-6, the Needswings and the BDJ's Racing. This excludes the do-it-yourselfers and what not. If you have been paying attention lately, there is some controversy over the dual vs single intake pipe setup. However, one task they share in common is that they were created to make more power than the stock unit.

As some of you know my 05 SRT-6 is on order and is practically new with only 450'ish miles on it. It should arrive by Christmas. What better car to test out both intakes on the dyno and post unbiased results. I will personally cover the dyno fees and post the results if BDJs Racing and Needswings are each willing to let me test their intake out on the dyno, provided i dont have to cut or hack anything on my car. I dont live far from BDJ's so i can pick his up in person. If Needswings is willing to send me one to test and cover the shipping here, i will be more than willing to cover the retun shipping.

This is just an idea i came up with, but one thing is for certain...the srt-6 community can only benefit from the results. What do you guys think?

 

NeedsWings has already posted his dyno results on the forum. Ask BDJ to manufacture and sell you one of his dual intakes and put it on the dyno and post the results.

You should dyno your Stock SRT prior to installing the Intake.

If you find you don't like it - I am sure you would have no problems selling it here or on ebay - no money loss other then the cost of the dyno session.

BTW - nice choice on a new car - enjoy that bad boy!!

 

Sounds like a good idea to me. I think the complete SL55 Setup with K&Ns needs to be added to the list as well.

 

I'm thinking about it. I would like a before and after dyno when I install the 185mm pulley. Might help folks make a decision on the various intake and pulley options comming to market for these cars.

I'm still running the stock filters that come with SL55 Airbox. I just wonder if this car really needs anymore air? It might when I install the big pulley. Perhaps when these get dirty I'll go with the K&N's.

 

I think that once a couple of the BDJ's are out there, a couple of members with some track access need to get together with the three intakes, pick one car and make some back to back runs. Stock, sl55, NS and BDJ's with maybe two back to back runs with each one. Once the stock intake system is off, swapping in and out the other systems should be pretty easy. If only one car is used and all runs are from idle, it should be a fair contest. I think the true results will be the second half of the track where air flow will start to be more of a factor.
And we might as wait till Erick at LET gets his version of an intake done also.

Just my opinion!!

 

Just Ordered Complete Sl-55 Ai System With K&n's From Letmotorsports. As Far As I Know Dyno's Are Scarce In Our Area. I Would Love To See The Before And After Results. I Live In Latham, Ny. The Srt6 Is In Garage And Under A Cover. (10 Inches Of Snow Yesterday) this Is The Time Of The Year I Do All My Mods. I'll Keep Everybody Posted On My Progress And/Or Problems.

 

I keep looking at the BDJ intake and wonder how its not sucking in alot of hot air from the engine. The needswings intake is getting its air outside the engine bay so I can logically see the benefit. I read some previous posts that the duel intake would be too hard to get both intakes outside like the needswings. I have no experience and don't own any aftermarket intake right now, but have you ever thought of making air boxes around the filters with a direct port to the outside air? Like I said I really know nothing about these things, but it would seem beneficial to your system since both filters are located in the engine bay. Just a thought, not trying to question anybodys "know how" or anything.

 

The last time I looked at BDJ's air intake system he had removed the peices on each side of the radiator that the OEM tube's connect to so the outside air could get to his filters. He had posted a few pic's with the grill out and you could see the filters. It has been mentioned about the OEM filters possibly being hot in the engine compartment, in my opinion they are probably warm, but not hot. Someone had made a post a while back about sitting in traffic for a long period of time and when they had stopped at one point they had opened the hood to see how hot the OEM air filter boxes were. They had stated that they were warm to the touch, but not hot. I think with as much outside air that is moving thru them they would not get a chance to really heat up. After I had installed a SL55 "Y" & hose's I removed the ends of the intake tube's were they go thru the radiator support, I used a heat gun and peice's of exhaust pipe to stretch them out to a 2&1/4" ID. I also removed the peice's on each side of the radiator, cut the tops of them off were the tube's had fitted to before and reinstalled the lower portion. I inserted a reinforced 2&1/2" ID hose on each side of the radiator to stick the newly rounded ends of the OEM tube's in just to support them and kind of sill thigs back up a little. So as far as getting a pretty good size hose thru the radiator support on the drivers side, it can be done. I didn't have a pic here at work of the hose on the drivers side.

 

That whole thing about the car being at idle at like stop and go traffic on a hot day is why I suggested the air boxes. I'm sure if the car is moving at highway speeds or atleast 30mph air circulation would be sufficient enough to make it a lil cooler in the engine bay where his filters are located. But on a hot day from a stop, I don't see how sucking in the hot engine bay air is beneficial. You cant sit there and tell me its away from the engine enough where this wouldn't be a problem, because I can feel the heat from the engine when its been running a long time when i'm sitting in the drivers seat. I like the way the intake looks (BDJ) better than Needswings. I'm sure you have already thought of this "problem" I have spoken about and coming from a guy who doesn't know a whole lot on intakes and such you could probably brush it off as someone who doesn't know what they are talking about trying to sharp shoot, but from a logical standpoint this issue would seem to me as a "real problem" with the design of your intake.

On the Needswings comment, I have almost no doubt that this intake will be the best power producer. The intakes appears well made/designed and IMO looks nice. The problem I have with it is that it makes the engine compartment look ugly and bare. It just looks like something is missing and is totaly not asthetically pleasing in any way (engine bay as a whole, not necessarily the intake). I don't know which intake I will end up buying but more and more I am leaning towards the SL55 just cause I know it has power gains (how much remains to be seen) and its the best looking IMO. Not trying to knock anybody, thats just how I feel.

 

I agree about BDJ's set up, in slow traffic it's got to be sucking hot air. With that setup you would have to be going at a good rate of speed to get some cool air to the filter's. I also agree with you on Needswings pipe, the engine compartment is just ugly. I had started a thread a while back titled "Is It Just Me", it sounded like I was knocking these guy's intake systems, but I was just trying to make the statment of how ugly the engine compartment was with out the OEM air boxes & engine cover. That's why I went with the SL55 setup, it looks more asthetically pleasing & OEM. As far as power gains with the SL55 set up, I have a G-tech meter that will tell you what your peak HP is when doing a 1/4 mile run. By removing the resonator and going with the SL55"Y" & hose's I gained 23 to 25 HP to the rear wheels from previous runs, it is not like a dyno because you are cutting thur the air resistance and not sitting still on a set of rollers. So on a real dyno the gains would probably be quite a bit more.

 

I think you'll find that the supercharger is going to super-heat the intake air no matter where it comes from. The larger the crank pulley - the greater the heat generated.

Drive your car, then let it idle for about 10-15 min. Pop the hood and feel the intake components prior to the SC ie.. the intake tubes, airboxes and Y-pipe and pull an intake tube and feel the air filter.

Then touch (but be careful - hot! hot! hot!) the plenum covers, the supercharger and the metal collector in the back of the engine. (Intake components after the passing thru the SC) This is where the majority of the heat is being generated.

If you want cooler IAT - no matter what intake system you decide to pony up for; A larger capacity HE, separate surge tanks and possibly the Johnson Marine water pump. This is probubly the second best performance mod (1st being a larger pulley) if you run on hot days and worry that exccesive IAT will be pulling timing on you.

As for low cost effective intake mod that retains the stock look - I suggest Steve's mod. An SL55 Y-pipe, K&N filters and eliminate the intake squeeze at the radiator support. I would say around $130 mod.

Is that about right Steve?

EDIT -

I forgot the plenum spacers from EvoSport and possibly a cooler radiator thermostat offered on the MBWorld forum.

 

No doubt everything under the hood is going to be hot/warm, but I think pulling air from the same place is the problem. Atleast with the stock/Sl55 and Needswing your atleast getting the original air from outside the hottest place on the car. It would seem to me that 90 degree air from outside would be a better starting point than the 120 degree engine bay air.

 

Yeah, $130 is probably about right by the time I bought some other peice's of hose's and stuff to get the SL55 hose's to fit on to the OEM air boxes.

 

So there you go; mod the stock system for $130 or a new $450 NW unit or design / make your own 3" pipe for around $250.

Without an ECU tune - pulling more air will lean your Air/Fuel ratio out at WOT with the factory fuel maps.

I like the results posted by Steve H and NW becouse both have had their ECU's tuned along with the intake mods.

Would still like to see dyno results from all the others.

 

"Without an ECU tune - pulling more air will lean your Air/Fuel ratio out at WOT with the factory fuel maps."

So am I to assume the BDJ is for more show and less go? No doubt it looks the meanest/best of the bunch and although I would like an asthetically pleasing intake such as yours, power is still a factor too. Nobody buying Needswings cares what it does without a tune becuase obviously what they are buying it for is the bottom line (power). Are you making these (BDJ) strictly for people not looking to tune the engine and just run a stock air/fuel ratio? In that case a head to head with Needswings is like comparing apples to oranges. I know I'm being a pain in the rear, but I know I'm not the only one wondering these things. I'm being a pain in the tail mostly because I like the way BDJ's looks best, but I still would want the same or close to the power of the Needswings. I'm just an interested shopper looking for the best options.

 

I don't know - I don't have any of these intake setups. I decided on a completely different route.

Sounds like you are more interested in bashing the BDJ product on this thread then seeking input on a intake upgrade. The moderators already deleted an ugly thread over this issue.

If you don't like something - don't buy it. It's your car, your money and your choice. No need to disprove or bash anything or anyone.

You should pony up with the NW intake - you won't have worry about buying, fitting and designing your own system and it provides the proven results you want. Pull your valve covers and SC and have them polished to make the engine bay looking nice.

TOO EASY

Edit -

"Are you making these (BDJ) strictly for people not looking to tune the engine and just run a stock air/fuel ratio?"

Let me clarify - I don't make or sell anything for any car. I have a full time job (well I play on the internet sometimes) and my other toys require lots of my time and money. I like to post what I have done to my SRT, what parts I have used and how much it cost me. I don't promote or bash - or am I paid or asked to promote or bash any product on this forum.

BB

To be 100% honest - I did question the Sprint Booster once - Boy I sure found out how emotionally attached folks are to that little device.

 

I'm very happy with my gains using the SL55 components and keeping the stock look. I believe the reason I gained the 23 to 25 HP at the wheels on my G-Tech meter is because with the Renntech kit, I think my S/C was starving for air. If you like the looks of BDJ's setup best you could get it and mod it to put the filters out front, as I stated previously - you can get a 2&1/2" ID hose thru the drivers side radiator support. If I was not so set on not wanting to see that ugly a$$ engine when I open my hood, I would probably do so myself. Since these pic's were taken I have turned down the cones on the lug bolts so they don't stick up and fit flush. I'm just using them temporally to fill in the threaded hole's in the S/C. HOLY BIG PICTURE'S BATMAN.

 

There are 3 factors to consider when designing a CAI.

1) CFM
2) temp of the air source
3) Turbulant or vertex flow

The CFM is controlled by 2 factors; pipe diameter and pressure/vacuum. Since we are talkng about an s/c motor pressure vacuum is controlled by the thrust generated with the combination of the impellars and pully diameter. The correct amount of CFM will change if you modify the pulley and possibly changing the ECU. Pipe diamter therefore for this conversation is what we will discuss. Pipe diamter from origin to insertion at the front of ithe ntake should be the same if not only slightly larger than the diamter of the intake itself. Funnelled, or cone shaped mouths at the beginning of the intake often hinder not help air flow. I will discuss that further when I explain vertex flow.

Temp of the air source has less of an impact with a s/c due to the large amount of heat generated during the compression process. Obviously extremely hot air entering the intake will have an effect but 5 deg differance not have as much. The amount of warming of the air inside the the intake tube is rarely significant and for a s/c motor almost irrelevant. Summer to winter changes would be considered an extreme change. Where I live the temp in summer can be upper 90's and winter well below zero. a 100deg spread will effect air density sufficiently. Air temp plays a more significant role with normally aspirated engines.

Now for the part you have all been waiting for...


Vertex flow. Vertex flow is any airflow not parrallel and directional to the main flow of air. Think of eddy currents. Contra or vertex flow can cause overall cfm calculated by volume and speed/rate of travel. In my 2004 Dodge Ram with a Hemi, the factory air box and intake tube created vertex flow that was so detrimental it was measurable. The intake tube was constructed of high impact plastic and a decent insulator from the heat in the egine compartment. The problem was that the tube was constructed like accordian bellows, ribbed inside and out. These ribs along with a few too many beds caused the air not to travel smoothly through the tube. The test I performed is as follows: I removed the tube from the truck and ran air through it. With a CFM gauge/meter I measured the CFM out the other end as well as wind speed. Also using a fog machine at the source I could visually see the flow of air. I purchased an AFE brute force CAI. I repeated the same test. The results were amazing. There was a 22% differance in air speed and CFM. Tube diamter was alomost identical. The main differacne between the 2 was the smoothness of the ID and fewer smoother bends. The brute force produced a smooth non vertice flow out the end. Also sharp bends in the tube or restrictions any where along the tube will also cause vertex flow. So having a flare at the mouth of the tube is not recommended and using a mandrel to bend is most beneficial.

I have a degree in flow dynamics. We use water, smoke,fog, air and other malleable solutions to check CFM, pressures and the like. The aforementioned commentary is not to insult anyone but to help you in your endeavors when creating some of the fine craftsmanship I have seen displayed here. In summary the optimal air in take would be best constructed following these general rules.

1) Keep the tube as short and as straight as possible.
2) when beds are needed use a madrel and keep the bend radius as big as feasable.
3) Using tubing that is the same size from one end to the other.
4) Use tubing that has a completely smooth ID.
5) Do not flare the end.
6) Try to gather the air from outside the engine compartment but not at the expense of many tight bends.
7) To determine which is worse more bends or pullng air from within the compartment you will need to perform dynos with both configurations and measure CFM with both configurations.


Sorry for the long dissertation but knowledge is power!!!



Leadfoot

Keep the rubber side down.

 

Sounds like you are more interested in bashing the BDJ product on this thread then seeking input on a intake upgrade. The moderators already deleted an ugly thread over this issue.

If you don't like something - don't buy it. It's your car, your money and your choice. No need to disprove or bash anything or anyone.


If you were just making this for yourself and not trying to market this as a product for sale I wouldn't question a thing and just try to make a few helpful (hopefully) comments. But since you seem like your going to try marketing this thing for sale, I don't think my questions are over the top. Trust me when I say I haven't begun to bash, trust me. Sorry to get your panties in a bunch, but If your going to be selling something your going to get people who are going to ask real questions. Like I said before I do like the way it looks the best and I'm actually pulling for you (believe it or not) that you get this thing right, but don't take my hard questions as badgering or bashing that is not my intent. Just curious will you be dynoing your setup with the engine running for a while, hood latched down, and no fan blowing in front?

 

That totaly is a huge picture, LOL. Like your setup man.