Just an idea i had. I think it would eliminate the lag of the s/c kicking in and make throttle response insane. Might hurt gas mileage a bit. Sure simplifies things though. Just an idea, and i wanted to be the first to suggest it so 5 years from now when someone searches it was my idea

What if you changed the size as well, increasing boost but requiring no need for crank pulley swap. Im just brainstorming here...

 

actually I suggested the idea before you, so and I'm sure it was thought up before I made mention to it.

a lot of the mods you see everyone doing here almost 99% of them came from MBZ forums like MBworld website

 

guess im not so cool afterall

so have any of the MB guys tried it yet? hell have any of the MB guys gone 11's in their slk32s yet? the cars been out long enough...

 

there is an SLK38K that has 440 hp 420ftlbs. that the guys at Car and Driver magazine couldn't break 13.5sec beacuse of traction problems. They had the tires lit probably halfway down the track

 

I was thinking, of just shorting it so it's alway all the way on. Have'nt researched the idea much, just a thought though.

 

Sorry but i dont follow, care to clarify?

I just realized what you meant...are you sure itd be always engaged vs. always disengaged?

 

Like I said I haven't looked at the schematics yet. I will research more.

 

just get a pully machined, heck maybe one of the Eaton pullies may match up?? I don't have an srt6 so someone needs to disasemble the snout pully and take some measurments. any machine shop could make this up for under $300

 

If i could get my hands on a busted s/c one i wouldnt mind starting this project off, but i daily drive my car. Now someone like HDDP with a torn down motor...he loves playing with **** like this anyway

Fixed pulley, different size(smaller = more psi on s/c i think). Questions is...what will the ecu think. If no issues and gas mileage doesnt just get retarted low, its a nice option to other crank pulleys in the $1200-$1400 range.

 

Without a clutch, I think you would need a bypass valve of some sort to expel or re-circulate the "boosted air" when the engines at idle or during normal city driving.

Our SC does not have a bypass capacity. Something to consider.

 

do you think you can weld in a turbo blow off valve in the surge tanks??

I would be more worried about that skinny little supercharger belt taking anymore abuse than it already is.

 

Ive talked to Brian at BDJ's racing and hes quite confident in being able to weld bovs into the surge tanks. Worse case scenario i know they could be tapped.

 

I agree, a solid pulley is a great idea. Why in the world would you want a BOV after the throttle body? Turbo cars use them to combat pressure spikes when the throttle blades are shut suddenly, which slows the compressor wheel in the turbo.
If I'm not mistaken(which I've been known to do ), a bypass valve on a positive displacement supercharger is completely differant than a BOV on a turbo or centrifical SC. BOVs vent to atmosphere, bypass valves simply bypass the intake path aroumd the supercharger. If the SC is bypassed during cruising speeds and Idle then it is not compressing air, so parisitic loss is minimized at low loads. This gives better mpg, eccentially what the SC clutch does.

If you look at all of the hot rod cars and boats over the years who have had roots type superchargers, non of them have had bypass valves.

 

that's true the SC is a direct drive system, shouldn'thave any pressure spikes. and since your not running a carb there is no need to worry about a backfire exsplosion in the SC housing.

 

thought about this a week ago and I am not the first either, but found some bad news

Just found some info on this and it will not work being engaged all the time

more info from that same thread
http://www.mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=155448

my initial thread
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=20931

Now that I have researched the subject I have decided to use the clutch to my advantage. If let motorsports can get their Twin turbo setup to work, I would love to do a twin charged setup on my car with a single rear mounted turbo.

 

Not a good idea... Engine won't idle well... on/off switch is OK, but remember that with the SC off your intake air is flowing thru the SC "MAZE" of non-turning screws...

Leave the thing alone unless you are building a purpose built engine... Look at chilling your charge air and you'll gain serious HP...

 

BTW, there are 4 vacuum / pressure lines on the SC / 2 on top, 1 on right rear, 1 on left rear... Can you guys start looking at your engine before you start this diatribe again ?

 

MadMAx style switch the S/C clutch

 

I agree with HDDP, the clutch is there for a reason. If you ever go with a bigger pulley that clutch may save your S/C if you have too much boost. If you would like your S/C to kick in sooner get a modded ECU job. Renntech tuned my ECU, I don't remember the RPM's that the S/C clutch kicks in, but it's a lot lower than stock. I'm working on cooling the charge air as HDDP said, by adding cooling fans to the S/C heat exchanger.