just got the SRT back from the dealer today for the third time and still no resolution for an inoprative IC pump. The pump is good, it works if 12v are wired to it directly or if the fuse box is bypassed. There is a pulse going to the Pulse Module from the ECU which is suppose to turn the pump on, but still no power is going to the pump. all of the wires have been traced and no shorts have been found in the wiring. The fuse block has been replaced along with the ECU and the Pulse Module. The tech has worked on the car for 4 days now and has all but given up.

Chrysler won't (can't) give the tech the support he needs. They just tell him that they didn't design the car, so they aren't sure how to trouble shoot the problem. The service writer is telling me that they have thrown enough money and parts at it and they have to draw the line somewhere even if the problem isn't fixed.

My question to you guys is: With the key on, engine off, if you put your hand on the IC pump can you feel it running?

 

Can they really just throw in the towel like that? I didn't think they could do that. You might need a lawyer or something here in a min.

 

This is a crock..... I am assuming that they are telling you that they wont replace the IC pump because when they hook power to it that it works even though it doesnt when you hook it up to the car? Here's an idea... replace it and see if a new one works. Oh and they have to draw the line somewhere???? ok how about drawing the line right after getting you the car and performance you paid for. I had a few dealers that were giving me the same lines. Then I found one with a tech that knew what he was doing. Usually the problem is a tech that doesnt know what he is doing but is too proud to admit it (or is too dumb to realize that he is..well..dumb) I would take your car out of there and call around and find a dealer with a SRT 6 tech that knows how to work on your car. Then call Chysler and advise them of the pain that the other dealer is giving you.

Sorry for the rant, but seeing people get treated like this gives me a headache and frustrates the hell out of me. UGH!!!

 

Is there a Mercedes dealership or shop you or your Crossfire tech could talk to for advise? Your tech needs help and it makes sense to go to the source for assistance.

Where are you located? Maybe a forum member can recommend a better dealership in your area.

 

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Keyboard stuck, sorry.

 

again, sorry, having technical difficulties......

 

This is complete crap!! My dealer did the same thing to me, so I called Chrysler. They didn't help too much, but then I demanded the service manager do something. They still never fixed the original problem, but it was only a faulty seatbelt alarm. The problem was that they screwed up my electronics and interior in the process of trying to fix the seatbelt alarm. Chrysler does not care about the crossfire or it's owners. If you have a warranty, they must fix it! I'd call a lawyer just to prove a point.

 

COOLANT CIRCULATION PUMP CIRCUIT (CONTINUED)
2. MEASURE THE VOLTAGE OF THE COOLANT CIRCULATION PUMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the ignition off.
Disconnect the A/C Heater Control Module harness connector.
Note: Check connector - Clean/repair as necessary.
Connect a jumper wire between the terminals in the Coolant Circula-
tion Pump harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the Coolant Circulation Pump Control circuit at
the A/C Heater Control Module harness connector.
Is the voltage above 10 volts?
Yes >> Go to 3
No >> Repair the Coolant Circulation Pump Control circuit for an
open.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST.
3. MEASURE THE VOLTAGE OF THE COOLANT CIRCULATION PUMP CONTROL CIRCUIT
With the ignition off.
Reconnect the Coolant Circulation Pump harness connector.
Measure the voltage of the Coolant Circulation Pump Control circuit at
the A/C Heater Control Module harness connector.
Is the voltage above 10 volts?
Yes >> Replace the A/C Heater Control Module. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/HEATER
CONTROL - REMOVAL).
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST.
No >> Replace the Coolant Circulation Pump. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/ELECTRIC
COOLANT PUMP - REMOVAL).
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST.
24 - 42 HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS ZH


MAKE THEM FIX IT... OR MAKE THEM PAY FOR A MB DEALERSHIP TO FIX IT>>.

 

I have a couple of questions? Did you buy the car new or used and did you buy it from that dealer? If you answered used and no you didnt buy it from that dealer I can tell you that once a vehicle goes to a second owner Chrysler kind of thros them to a secondary pile, it sucks but unfortunantley that's the way it is, and if you didnt buy the car from that dealer you're not gonna get the best possible service cause you are not their customer techinically speaking. I work at my family owned Chrysler dealership and see stuff like this every now and then. When it comes to second customer owned cars chrysler itself could really care less, and unfortunantley there are dealers out there that if you're "not their customer" can be difficult and that makes my job like a million times harder. If you go back to that dealer and calmly ask them there has to be something that can be done to fix this and just be nice (not saying you havent been) and stay calm with them I am sure they would be willing to work with you. Oh yah and make sure that they have a crossfire certified tech there, cause I know we had to send a couple of our guys to a special school just to be able to work on them, kind of like vipers. If the dealership is still being difficult, then find somewhere else. Dont keep making a bad experience for yourself there are some of us (dealers) out there who give a darn about customer service and want to help people. Just my 2 cents

 

I'll keep my cool and press on, they WILL fix my car. The way I see it, with parts and 4 days labor they have around $4000-$5000 in repairs so far and still the same problem.

I spoke with Chrysler customer service today , no help but at least it is documented.

Thanks for all of the usefull info HDDP!

 

If you have spent $4000 + out of pocket, ask the service manager when the next time his area rep will be in, and ask to speak with them both. I would also recomend an attorney at this time. You should deffinately not have to pay another penny, and if the dealer is not able to fix the car, they need to find the people whio can. Unfortunately this is probably a MB dealer. (I'm a x-fire tech saying this) The tech should only be fairly compensated for diagnostic time, however, not the full amount since he hasn't gotten right yet, and no time for repairs performed, since it hasn't been fixed.

P.M. me with any availible codes and attempted repairs, and I will see what I can come up with. I also re-emphasize, get an attorney.

 

Sorry Shawn, I wasn't clear. Its still under warrenty, thank God. Still "There is no such thing as free lunch" so some one has to pay at, least its not me.
There are no codes, just an in-op pump. So far the ECM , fuse block (underhood) and Pulse Module have been replaced. The first time the car was in, the dealer pulled another SRT6 off of the lot to act as a donor car for spre parts . The tech seems to be a sharp guy ( I'm a mechanic so I'm usually a good judge of other's auto knowledge). There are alot of hours of chasing wiring and head scratching. There is a pulse going to the Pump Driver but it still doesn't turn the pump on. The tech feels as if it isn't the correct pulse, but Chrysler can't tell him what the pulse should be on the scope because "They didn't design the car".

 

In this case,hmmm, you don't want to lemon law, because you love your car,sighhhh,...
Be calm with the service manager, and explain to him that you understand that he is haveing a problem, but it is your right as a consumer to have a proerly functioning vehicle, and it doesn't matter the cost of your time or chryslers parts. With it being under warranty, you can not take it to a MB and still have it under warranty. I still recomend talking to the area manager.
If the controller is pulsing....Let ma look at the circuit. Ill post more later.

 

 

 

By your origional description, it seems like the only thing left is the splice block,
and HDDP, from my own experiance the diag procedures in general provided by DC are only correct about 40% of the time.
to awnser your origional question, it does not look like the pump will run unless the vehicle is running. The PCM should keep it off unless the vehicle is running.

 

PULSE MODULE E (SRT) - 7 WAY
1--
2 18PK/RD FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT
3--
4--
5 18GY/BL CHARGE AIR COOLER CIRCULATION PUMP CONTROL
6--
7 18RD/BL CHARGE AIR COOLER CIRCULATION PUMP DRIVER

 

We don't have paper manuals past 04 at my shop, however this is our tech support queries. I did some research and I came up with this.

Search Result #8 of 169 (58%)
function edit_result () { document.formulaire.action.value="EDIT"; document.formulaire.submit();}
Case Number K28365343
Vehicle IssueMIL light came on . \
Fault present for P0111. |
Intercooler water pump not working
Year2005ModelZH - CrossfireEngine3.2L V6 SUPERCHARGED
System or ComponentMalfunction Indicator Light / MIL / Check Engine LightScan Tool Diagnostic Trouble Codes / Error MessageP0111 $CA

Intake Air Temperature Sensor Performance
Case Verification
Verify the vehicle complaint.
Perform diagnostics for the stored/active fault. Compare the intake air temperatures and the coolant temperatures. If the intake air temperatures are higher than the coolant temperatures, review the below recommendation.
Recommendation
The intercooler for the supercharger is water cooled. If there is premature failure of the intercooler pump, then the intake air temperatures will start to climb up and set the fault. If they get high enough, the ECU will disable the supercharger pump resulting in a lack of performance. Verify the intercooler pump operation.
Modification Date08/11/06 4:48 PM

 

very interesting

 

I gave up on my local dealers and just installed a Johnson pump in the trunk with a remote resivour. Now I can switch it on or off whenever I want. Just waiting on my aluminum tank to replace my ghettofied tupperware tank .