I agree with Brian. I ran in Fallon, NV for 4 days and DA was 7000' feet. I have a crank pulley though. Send it back, you can at least give us feedback for code3's customer service. That SC pulley could put me well into the 11's, but won't be trying it until someone like you works out the little bugs. Sorry for your troubles but they are actually helping the rest of us out.

 

Well we disagree Brian. The SC is running all the time, I wanted to pull the camera out of the back to show you and I even painted my pulley with you in mind. The camera was monitoring the intercooler temperature meters and the intake air pressure and I needed to capture that data.

The supercharger does not cause overheating as it only increases the intake charge temperature due to compression and frictional losses. The intercooler should always handle that as your high speed runs indicate its capacity.

1. I would not add any additional H/E's in series with the stock he as it is sooo restrictive to flow. My measurments were stocker flowed 1.5 GPM with the Johnson pump, 3.1GPM with my big intercooler, 3.7 GPM with the LET style HE and my Super cooler design got 4.0GPM due to lower internal restriction.

2. If your heating problem is not going away you may be noticing it due to the higher heat load discussed above. Your intercooler and H/E may be flowing too little water to reject the heat present.

I would recommend that you get a really clean catch can and flush the radiator system with a good (Pestone) radiator cleaner. Then drain the fluid and observe it to see if you find any crud like I did at 12,000 miles with a former chrysler dealer car.
Rinse and refill as recommended to see if that makes a big difference for you. IT DID FOR ME IN MY CAR.

3. If I can figure out how to place my dvd camera under the hood while driving to document this S/C controversy and prove it to everyone, I will. I did one video and drove really slowly to prove it but more information is apparently needed. THE CLUTCH IS TOO SMALL TO ALLOW ENGAGEMENT ABOVE A VERY LOW SPEED - mine kicks in above about 1300 rpm but I will continue to try illuminate the operation of this clutch.

WOODY

 

Woody's video explained it pretty well. If you're accelerating, or plain driving, then the SC on, unless you're coasting to a stop, stopped, or at any time in park or nuetrel (I might be slightly off with that description).

This means if there was something wrong with the pulley and it was on all the time, like when driving normally, then its just doing what the normal pulley setup does anyways.

My temps used to always sit below the middle line on the temp guage. After I changed my s/c water pump, the temps always sat above the middle line instead, due to air in the system. I've tried my best to get bubbles out and can now get the temps to fluctuate between the below the line area and above the line area, but I can't see to get it back to just sitting below the middle line, no matter how much bleeding I do. This is why I haven't bought the code 3 pulley. I think i'm borderline too hot like the original poster.

Maybe having extra boost can mess up an already bad intake air temp sensor? The IAT is the deciding factor in the s/c shutting off. If a bad IAT is signaling intake temps too high then the s/c clutch will no longer engage. Its a $15 part, maybe order one from autohausaz.com

 

I'll give Code3 Performace customer service a try. Code 3 customer service was great when I purchased the pulley. Time to check out their support. Will send email requesting assistance/insight into my problem.
Hope they can help! (fingers crossed)

 

May get adventurous this weekend and drain the coolant system as Woody stated. A visual look at the coolant along with the small amount that drained when I replaced my IC pump indicates that the coolant is VERY clean. Doing this will give me another opportunity to become more familiar with the car.

I'm going to pull the Code3 pulley for now. Hate not knowing when I'll have boost or not. Plus it will give me a chance to see what my stock boost is now that I have installed the boost gauge.

I agree with Woody's statements on the operation of the supercharger. Hey Woody, how about just replacing the stock IC with the one I mentioned? I may have a aluminum radiator laying around maybe I'll look for it, modify it and install that instead. Whatever...!

 

I don't own a code 3 so I haven't installed one, but from reading your problems is sounds like a thermal expansion problem. Either you're not leaving enough space when the shims are installed ( which it sounds like you are) or you are having a spacer that starts to warp under heat which is causing drag on the supercharger and causing it to be engaged all the time. This would cause the intermittent problem

 

Woody explained in his long H/E posts that the main negative in our S/C cooling system is the lack of air reaching the heat exchanger. Basically, you're better off mounting your stock H/E in front of the upper radiator rather than using a better H/E (Like the LET one) in the stock position.

you're best off with a better H/E in front of the upper radiator. So yes, if you have something that gives better flow and will fit in front of the upper radiator then that would work great.

 

I agree with your description Ohnoesaz. Air is the media that is carrying away the heat, more is good. WOODY

 

I've been trying to follow this post because I feel that my power is not always consistant under similiar conditions and am looking for answers. I am all stock by the way except for the Johnson pump.
The one coment that seems to be expresses throught this post is that because of some mechanical defect the SC pulley is not disengaging and causing an overheat condition and therefore loosing power. When the brain sees OT doesn't it try to disengage the SC pulley and if successful you get a power loss? If the pulley is 'stuck' on wouldn't you continue to have boost but see the TEMP gauge rise? If it is stuck on what would be causing the power loss?

 

You are correct, if the pulley was stuck you would still have the power. It is a heat related problem.
Woody has me flushing out my HE circuit this weekend (he told me to do it). I will complete that task and post my results after I go drive the hell out of the car.
PLEASE, PLEASE be the solution! If not I'm prepared to upgrade my HE system.

An email to Code 3 elicited this response:

"Cooling issues have plagued the 3.2l sc engine since 2002. Remember, we have been modding this engines for quite some time. For years, people didnt understand how there upgraded C32 would lose to cars they shouldnt be in races. The problem was simple, heat soak was shutting the SC off, or causing it to pull a tremendous amount of timing because of the heat, which decreases power. The stock cooling system is not adequate at all to run ANY upgraded boost. When I started developing parts for the C32 two years ago, the first mod I designed was an upgraded HE. The johnson pump on its own will not help much. Even though it flows 50% more than the stock pump, most of it is getting backed up on the inlet side of the intercooler (under the SC), as it flows very poorly. Quite simply, an upgraded HE is one of the first mods I recommend to customers."

Sounds like you may be experiencing power fluctuations due to timing being pulled because of temp increases. Stay tuned!

 

tighed, nice post.

Yes, heat kills power and our cars are terrible at cooling. Remember... Chrysler gives less of a warranty on our SRT's for a reason: because they're under heavier abuse from the elements. An obvious one is heat.

As Woody has made VERY clear to us, the stock cooling is "good enough" but is in the wrong location. The stock H/E would do fine for the code 3 pulley if it were just located up higher, behind the grill. It basically gets no air in its stock location.

Adding a johnson pump does almost nothing due to the stock HE's restrictions. Its almost worthless to add the johnson pump. You need to get an HE, whether the stock one or the LET one or a big one like Woody's contraption, moved up behind the grill in front of the radiator. There is no way around this. Not even adding fans below at the stock location will help, as Woody pointed out.

Like recent responses have said, a "stuck" clutch would not be able to be disengaged when temps over-heat. The fact that its disengaging due to high temps says a lot. I don't think its the pulley at all. Its heat.

Start at the source of S/C shutdown. Its the ECU. Why does it shut the S/C down? Because the IAT is reporting temps too high. Why does the IAT report temps too high? Because either temps are too high or the IAT is dieing and showing it due to increased heat and boost.

Replace your IAT if possible ($15)

If its because temps really are too high, why is that? Because the current system state cannot accomadate the higher boost and higher temps.

The current system state may be affected by... A restrictive H/E is even more restricted due to crud in it, or a recently serviced H/E has air in it and needs to be bled, or a bled H/E has a small leak that is sucking in bubbles everyday, or variables such as temperature, dirt covering the engine, crud in the system, and a smaller pulley are combining to push the car right over the imaginery border into the overheated range.

Honestly, I'd replace the IAT before anything.

I know all I did is repeat what others have already said but it was my turn I guess...

 

LET HE mounted in the factory location, Johnson pump, separated coolant tanks = very tame IAT's

Radiator left wide-open with nothing to block or restrict the airflow...

Now that's chillin' my Beast Down.....

 

Next week a fabricator of super car goodies will be announcing the release of the "Super Cooler" as it has been called. They are doing the design of my approach and will be fabbing a kit approach to allow the easy installation. ITs all real easy to install the radiator and it does work well as a H/E. The relocation of the P/S cooler is the only work involved because I did the quick approach and re bent the stock tubing. Final design may be a separate cooler for better cooling and ease of DIY work.

I had thought of doing the assembly but I love playing with my cats, airplanes R/C, 440 6pack dodge, and generally playing at the young age of 61. My last company started in 1988 doing refrigerant recovery machines and I really dont wanna work, dabble yes, work no. I am doing development and design for the fun of it and dont even want money, just a few odd parts for my own car.

Next week should arrive sooner than christmas and it will be good.

Woody, P.S. this is not the October suprise for the track on the 12th.

 

Waldig, if I can whoop you because of this new "surprise", I'm going to be pissed.

 

The south may rise again if only for one day. Remember that horse power is a single point of measurment, the key is the area under the curve. I cant wait to see if I don't red light.

Please note 2000 rpm, it thinks it is a friggin Diesel!! Chart one is the ""STOCK"" using LET gasket spacers, CAI, and exhaust delete.......Oh yeah TAAAA DAAAAAA

 

We recently had a SRT in with a similar problem, but with stock pulley. After 5 mins of hard driving the SC would be MIA.

We installed a new pump and new HE, courtesy of LET, and problem fixed. The stock HE is pathetic in comparison.

Also, when you replace the coolant use the OEM MB stuff, it's only $20.00 a gallon non-diluted. That's about the same price as the aftermarket stuff.

 

I even fabbed up a quick, low-cost and effective DIY air deflector to steer even more air thru the HE.

 

Dang Woody!
Nice jump there! Is this something I might need for my current problem?
Should I hold off on buying anything to remedy my current problem?
Can hardy wait till the BIG news!

 

Brian, where did you install that new deflector? On top?

MikeR

 

On the bottom - I only have basic tools at home.. Here's a picture from the bottom of the car and one looking in from the lower opening