I checked the pump to make sure the connector hadn't worked loose, and it hadn't. The fuse is good so not sure what would have caused it to crap out without warning. Anyway, I just wanted to see if maybe I hadn't pulled something loose while removing the coolant reservoir. I know I broke the little prongs in the coolant level connector, but I just put them back together and shut the connector, hoping they would make contact and still work, slightly.

I was just curious what the other pump was above the IC pump. Is it an assisting water pump? what are the two selenoids that it pipes to above the wheel well? I hate not having answers, and not have parts to replace right now.

 

Sorry to get off topic guys, just quickly I've attached a picture, I''m just trying to find out if this is where you put the intercooler fluid back into after I change the pump.

 

Yes, that is where you add the coolant.

 

Ok, more questions.
#1:
In BrianBrave's IC separation thread:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...lant-tank.html
What is the benefit of doing the "BrianBrave" setup over the modified setup?

attached is my proposal, it would merely be an overflow tank just in case, b/c I am running the stock HE.
I am trying to keep as stock as possible, and I do a lot of sitting in traffic (no air flow to engine radiator, and I like using my AC).

#2:
I don't plan on ever using ice, and I imagine that the hose routing would require a lot more work... would putting the reservoir in between the HE and the IC pump benefit cooling at all? NOTE: not going to add ice.

#3:
Excluding the cap, would the tank need 2 or 3 inlets/outlets - 1-inlet,1-outlet,1-overflow outlet (like on the stock tank)? Does it need the overflow outlet just in case or for air/fluid expansion? I only plannned on keeping the tank half full.

Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Steve

 

in my opinion if you are keeping the stock heat exchanger you wont see any gains by doing anything different. the h/e is the biggest issue with these engines. you need a larger h/e to effectivly cool the i/c. after that separation and resovoirs come into play

 

My setup uses a "circulation/flow tank" so that you gain extra coolant capacity (about .95 gallons) flowing thru the system at all times. This allows heat to be spread out over more fluid and will quicken recovery time from high IAT's. I can pop the cap on my custom IC tank and watch the fluid flowing like a fountain.

BBdiagram.jpg

This setup also allows for the rapid dissipation of any trapped air. With a surge tank (the modified setup), the coolant in the tank is stagnant. It's only purpose is to provide the coolant a place to go when it expands, draw from when it cools and provide pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant.

Mine did take a little extra hose routing - but like I said in the write up - I used only existing hoses. (Along with relocating the pump)

 

thanks brian, that is what I was looking for. there is a benefit to having the tank inline with the system as opposed to just an overflow.

Just curious where did you relocated you IC pump to? was this necessary?

I was considering the LET HE (closest to stock appearance) but was wondering if the air damn can be reinstalled, how much hardware required?

But even with a new HE, I wanted to separate the IC and provide an overflow tank as a precaution (in case something overheated/broke, not concerned with aggressive driving, woody already proves this). So if I do the separation first I get the benefit and safety, and can always add a new HE later.

 

smpshady,

you should make the few hour drive over to TVT and have them do the install of the Eurocharged H/E for you...

i can almost guarantee you they won't void your warranty... or tell anyone that will.

 

Here's a pic that shows where I pack my Johnson. (frame rail next to the coolant tank)

I also made a new air dam for the LET HE out of a piece of aluminum.

 

thanx for the pix brian. I think I'm going to go the route of separation and an overflow reservoir, with the option to move the pump and use the new tank like you do later.
thanx. regards,
steve

 

I could do the HE, just don't want to lose the air damn, remove the bumper again, or cough up the $300-500. The separation that I am going to do is going to cost about $50, and very easy to reverse.