Hello All, curious to know if there have been advancements in this area. From the threads it seems as though I need to look into the IC pump and a sensor. I have notes but want to be armed with as much info as possible when I go to the dealer on Friday. Have the Chrylser extended warranty all things of this nature would be covered.

Car is duplicating same issue as many report, sluggish on highway when pushed and at times on highway it seems as though the car will push slightly (a slight bump in speed). Slow speeds no acceleration at least compared to our normal standards.

Please advise if you have any info to help my cause. As always I value everyones input and advise, great forum!

 

While you have it at the dealer the valve covers should be checked for oil leaks. It is hard to see in there with the stock engine cover in place. To remove it well it just pops straight up and out of the way. check for leaks just below the oil filler tube. and around the spark plug wires.I did that repair with the ic pump as one visit on the $150 deductible ( certified used warranty) Be ready for the dealer to be clueless about common problems with these cars.

 

Failing i/c pumps result in symptoms where the car runs normally, then when the i/c gets hot it cuts out and you "lose the supercharger" until it cools off again. So it works normally, then no power, then normal again. Cycle can be 5-10 minutes. If you constantly have no power, it may be something else.

 

hey guys new srt6 2nd owner just bought one from car max 05 srt6 with 45k miles had it transferred to Orlando from Arizona... brought it home yesterday and decided to try her out a bit and i noticed that sometimes i have massive boosted power and some times i have N/A power. I just sold my 2003 saab 9-3 vector turbo... so i know when the engine is boosting or not.. does my i/c pump need to be replaced? i have a 6 yr 100k mile warranty i bought with car-max because i know these cars have cooling issues. I dont race the car but i would like to have the power there when i need/want it, so my other question is what can i do to maximize the stock cooling system ie.. What coolant should i use and additives, what free simple mods should i do. Again I live in Orlando Florida so i dont think freezing protection is needed..but i want to keep corrosion down. any general consensus pointers would be appreciated... if i am hijacking this thread let me know and i will post a new one.

 

This is exactly my issue as you desribed, coming and going. When the engine is cool, no issues, when warm I get spotty acceleration. Thank you and if anyone has any other helpful points please let me know, the car goes under the knife on Wednesday!

 

Separating your IC cooling system from your engine cooling system is just about a FREE cooling mod.

Check out this LINKY . More pics of the pump and hoses can be found in this How to Super Cooler LINKY.

 

1st, check the fuse for the pump. I replaced my pump before realizing the fuse was blown.

Only use the fluid type specified in the manual. I'm sure it calls out the same Zerex G05 as Mercedes. I only found it at NAPA (besides the over-priced dealer). It is a special type - HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology). Don't mess with other formulas as the properties can cause damage to the internal system over time.

 

whats the fuse number?

 

My car is Naturally Aspirated, but acted similarly to yours. Sluggish throughout the drive train. Turns out that the left-rear speed sensor was bad, causing the car to do peculiar things though activating the electronic speed controller. A fairly simple sub-100 Euro fix.

Good luck. Hopefully it's not in your supercharger inter cooler. Yikes.

PS: Have you ever reset the throttle control memory? Makes a remarkable difference.

 

nope just got it yesterday how do i do that?

 

I don't know off the top of my head and not sure if my SLK32 shares the same fuse setup. When you pop the fuse cover, the card inside tells you what's on each fuse.

 

#13 red 10 amp fuse.

 

thanks ill check it out and research resetting the throttle control mem...

on another note my car is like Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde...and sometimes its an unleashed monster with so much power its ridiculous, i gotta get this pump thing fixed, it's dangerous because when i put my foot down i wont know what im gong to get its like driving 2 cars at the same time... makes timing passing cars, making lights, shooting gaps, and other maneuvers...

thanks for the help so far

 

gfreak being in fl you will see some high iat's when pushing your car. cooling mods were the first things i did and these mods have proven to be worth the $. you can add meth to further cool but its not the route i choose
1. dj's supercooler. the biggest h/e made cost 350$
2. separate the cooling system from the i/c sytem. free and turns a high pressure i/c loop into a low pressure loop cost FREE!
3. run a 70/30 mix in the i/c coolant system. water cools faster than antifreeze
4. the following mods were done to compliment the others and keep the engine itself cooler as the h/e is HUGE!
5. 180 tstat cost $100
6. -10 * fan mod. cost $50 this mod turns the fan on 10* sooner than oem to work inconjunction with the 180 tstat
7. complete fluid flush and rinse. then refill with 50/50 mix of m/b coolant and distilled water cost 25$
8. remove the rubber strip at the rear of the hood to allow heat to escape. cost free! some remove the bottom pan as well but i kept mine as i noticed a lift in the front of my car in excess of 150mph

when all this was completed i realized a 80 to 90 * drop in iat's . my engine temps run 180 to 190* in 90* heat and my iat's run 100 to 105* of course theres a huge spike in iat's when the car is pushed hard, but almoat as soon as you release the throttle the temps start to decline

hope this helps

 

im not a fan of putting a massive intercooler because then the other cooling systems suffer ie oil, trans, engine coolant, ac, etc.. I had a saab 9-3 turbocharged and the stock system had zero cooling issues but then again it was a 250hp car, but my buddy has a 300zx TT with all the bolt ons you can get running at 415 at the wheels and his overly massive air 2 air IC has caused major cooling isues for all for of his other cooling systems...

what do you think of doing:

2. separate the cooling system from the i/c sytem. free and turns a high pressure i/c loop into a low pressure loop cost FREE!
3. run an 80/20 mix with water wetter type product instead of 70/30 mix in the i/c coolant system. water cools faster than antifreeze
5. 180 tstat cost $100- not sure what this does please explain.?
6. -10 * fan mod. cost $50 this mod turns the fan on 10* sooner than oem to work inconjunction with the 180 tstat
7. complete fluid flush and rinse. then refill with 50/50 mix of m/b coolant and distilled water cost 25$
8. remove the rubber strip at the rear of the hood to allow heat to escape. - would this be a problem during rainy days on the underhood electronics and so on getting wet..as this is my daily driver? cost free! some remove the bottom pan as well but i kept mine as i noticed a lift in the front of my car in excess of 150mph

im just looking to have the power there when i need/want it i hate the fact that when i "hit the gas" the performance result is a coin toss.... im going to have the IC pump checked out..

 

The throttle response memory establishes a 'memory' of your driving habits and applies that 'memory' to the accelerator-by-wire module of the ECU. If one drives like an old lady, the memory (over time) takes set in the ECU and adjusts the response lag accordingly. On the other hand, if you drive like a nut, the accelerator reacts more quickly and is memorized as your driving style within the pedal/wire system.

To reset the throttle response memory:

• Turn key to ON position.
• Press accelerator pedal all the way down.
• Wait five seconds.
• Turn key to OFF.
• Let pedal back up.
• Wait five minutes before driving away.

The response memory is thus reset to factory 'zero' so to speak, giving the accelerator-by-wire system the fastest OEM response time. The difference should be noticeable. But if this still doesn't blow your skirt up, consider investing in a $300 Sprint Booster module ... an easy installation that, some say, is well worth the money.

 

the large h/e is the biggest part of the puzzle. with it installed it raised my engine temps by 10*C. thats were the 180* thermostat (tstat) comes into play along with the fan mod. temps now back at 80*C were they belong
if you separate the systems you want more water than coolant. granted if you live in the northern zones you need more coolant as the seasons change. water wetter is ok but i just stick with whats easiest.
i havent had any problems with the rubber strip removed and rain been in some big storms and no issues

 

"the large h/e is the biggest part of the puzzle. with it installed it raised my engine temps by 10*C. thats were the 180* thermostat (tstat) comes into play along with the fan mod. temps now back at 80*C were they belong"




Just a question on the above quote. If the intercooler system is separated from the engine cooling system why would a larger H/E cause the engine temp to go up 10*C ? Thanks

 

ANSWER:

Because the larger inter-cooler is in front of all-the other radiators, thus causing other system cooling issues... to me its a matter of priority if i can keep the temps down on the iat's using the stock inter-cooler and doing the other mods, id like to do so, because then the other systems wont suffer.. like i said before this is my daily driver im not looking to create other long term issues by installing over sized inter-coolers, i figure if the car needed the larger IC the SRT would have done that, i think ic cooling issues originate from an inefficient or faulty IC pump...

another question what is the lowest mix i can use safely in the entire engine here in Florida where the weather never gets below 45F for very long?