btw, scandinavias only srt6 with paddle shift...

 

Not for long bud

 

But I was the first

 

Is this the thanks I get, hehehe

 

hahaha, just let me know when we are doing yours and I'll pop over. It will be a lot quicker now with the paddle shifters. You home yet?

 

Possible to move back the beamer stick somewhat? Have anyone done this?

 

Rudy used a heat gun and bent the stick forward. Others have not had the nerve.

 

sounds like a solution only mr Rudy crossfire could do. I guess there is like a pocket that you could open and do some alterations. But bending the actual stick sounds dangerous. Hmm.. I wonder what the Po Lice say if I have high beams on all the time
180, you find any other solutions?

 

In my case the HB switch will touch the paddle when pulled back but still operates preperly. I dont see a need to do anything about this condition

 

Same here. It is something I can live with. Best mod together w dcai and pulley.

 

Rudy used the heat gun on my install as well. No issues.

 

As Mario has stated here, I, too, have found that the turn signal lever is ONLY inhibited from being used to FLASH highbeams, but it does not interfere with paddle operation and vise versa (either in high beam or low beam position).

HOWEVER, depending on how I hover over the paddles, I have felt the brush of the turn-signal lever on the back of my finger on occasion. So, I can understand the motivation to add a little room there. I don't think it is necessary (but I may do it on my new SLK32).

As I am always interested in feedback that may improve the kit (and kit install), among other aspects of the kit that I have talked with Rudy about, we have spoken briefly about this. Rudy suggested it was simple enough to heat it and bend it back slightly (keep in mind that Rudy is a genius at this sort of thing and those who are less handy will want to work slowly and take care not to inadvertently damage nearby items with the heat).

I have not, myself, tried to bend the turn signal lever. When the possible need to do so first came up, my first thought was a heat gun (and since Rudy has had success this way, it seems like the way to go). I have however bent the VOX (voice command) lever as I got one for a C class that needed a little bend to become identical to that of an SLK. My first approach was heat (heat gun) but the lever behaved like it was plastic-clad thin wall aluminum ... so it needed more than heat and light persuasion (it ended up getting heat and moderate persuasion). ..... If the this is the case with the turn signal lever (plastic-clad thin wall aluminum) then heat (and appropriate level of persuasion) will do (as Rudy has done) but one should take precautions (as I imagine Rudy does) to not put excessive loads on the lever at its pivot (and its associated components inside the column).
One method that I have found that works well for bending tubing (with no kinking and minimal flattening) that will ALSO help support the lever while bending (hopefully preventing excessive loads on pivot and internals) is to find a pulley that is intended for cable or rope (for rope that is the same diameter as the the tube (lever in this case) you are bending OR a "V" pulley in a pinch .... and then use this to back up the tubing (lever) as you bend it. The larger the diameter of the pulley, the softer the bend; however, in this case, the size of the pulley will determine how far from the column you make a bend. And keeping it mind that the closer to the column that the bend is ... the smaller the angle of the bend need be, a small pulley would be in order.

EDIT
I just looked this over a bit and all that is needed is to relax the factory bend in the lever.
Start by extending the wheel all the way out and then sliding a piece of soft wood between the lever and the lower dash. This should provide adequate protection from the heat gun and (when sized properly in terms of thickness so that the factory bend is resting on the wood) should provide a reasonable support for the lever while bending.
Measuring where you start (in terms of distance from lever tip to wheel or lever tip to board) and then bending in small increments while applying localized heat should do the trick.

Rudy, if you have thoughts on this (topic and procedure) you would care to share ... please do

Chris

 

DAMMIT! OK, after reading this thread, I want this mod! Please provide instructions on who/where to get the kit, how much, and where to get the OEM paddles for the mod.

I will post pics and details on how my mod goes. Time to tear into my dash again!

 

Contact latemodel21 for the kit and one of the the paddle sources is.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/1712670046/

 

Here's another source for the paddles:

https://www.oediscountparts.com/shop...t%3D1712670046

 

Anyone use the MB buttons under the wheel?

 

You just might be the first one doing it. I assume you mean installing, paddles sticking down. It sure can be done since the both paddles have the same symetrical mounting base. Are you comfortable with the 8 o'clock, 4 o'clock hand position?

I have no qualms against people who want to reinvent the wheel!

 

... not that I am aware of.

I wont say it can't be done (cause it can), but I will tell you why you probably wouldn't want to.

there are 2 popular styles of steering wheel mounted shift buttons used on pre-paddle MBZ cars (pre-paddle years are essentially 2003 through 2008). These two styles I will refer to as "long" and "short" (there is a 3rd style that is long-ish AND shifts both up and down, but they are too lame to contemplate).


both the long style and short style "snap" into very controlled and well defined pockets on the wheel (very tough to duplicate).


the short style was used on E55's S55's, and CL55's .... these would be a VERY bad choice as they also require additional (unusual) contours on the back side of the wheel to have a factory fit. HOWEVER, if you really wanted to use this button style, you should make sure and source 1 each of part numbers 870273-0004 & 870273-0005 as they are plug compatible with the paddles (and my paddle kit for the R170/crossfire). These can be found on models built after 2005. The older (2003 -2006 model years) used 870273-0002 & 870273-0003 which are not compatible due to a different switching strategy used in those years on some models (they use a NO and a NC switch with some electronic components rather than the NO, NO set up used in the later models).

the long style buttons were used on SL55's CLK55's, CLS55's, C55's and SLK55's . The problem with using these is that in order to convert these vehilcles to paddles (which then makes these buttons available to you) one has to cut the body of these buttons to make an adapter bezel for mounting the paddle (and to fill the long void in the back of the wheel). ... if however you find these (for less than $108 a set shipped ? which is what the amg paddles cost) MAKE sure they are off of a SLK55, C55, or CLS55 .... IF they are from an SL55 or a CLK55, they need to be from a 2006 (build date) or later car or you will have the same issue I mentioned for the early "short" buttons. The long buttons you want are 1 each of part numbers 870273-0010 & 870273-0011.

worth mentioning, these part numbers (while marked on the parts) can NOT be ordered from mercedes as they were shipped to them as part of the steering wheel (in most cases).

if this is something that you want to pursue, I coiuld send you detailed pictures of what the pockets need to be AND, I may be able to find a set of the buttons ....

EDIT, there are shift buttons used on later models (later S CLass?) that have more of a "teardrop" shape to the required pocket and ARE retained buy a screw ..... so if buttons appeal to you, this may be a good choice. I have a set (not for sale as I keep at least one set of everything) that I can find the numbers off of if you are truly interested.

but, bottom line .... GET PADDLES .... buttons are not worth the bother.

Chris

 

"GET THE PADDLES" Best quote of the day. I must emphasis this message and say that it is one of the best mods for our cars. I cannot believe I did not do it earlier. GET IT NOW!

 

I drove a R500 and it has buttons about 30mm square mounted it the same hole that the lever type go.