I just purchased a 2005 srt6 with 60k miles on it. When test driving I noticed a distinct loss of power at times. Having experience with forced air motors I sensed a faulty blower, after researching and reading the numerous posts on faulty cooler pumps I replaced mine after committing to the purchase of the car. At first I thought the problem was fixed, however upon driving a bit more discovered the problem still exists. I can feel, while cruising, what I suspect to be a disengagement of the clutch that drives the blower shaft after the engine warms up. I get a brief drag or surge when driving a steady speed at random moments. The feeling is similar to the feel one gets when an ac compressor engages and disengages on a 4 cyl. motor while driving. I do get unbelievable power in the first 5 minutes of driving and can drive the car hard without issue. Once the engine temp gets to normal operating range, the blower works intermittently. I feel it is definitely heat related. So the question is, do I replace the temp sensor next? Any other thoughts? Once done there I would like to pump up the performance any tips here?

 

My first thought is that your replacement pump isn't doing its thing either. What did you replace it with? Did you verify that it energized and ran O.K. before you installed it? And then yes, the IAT sensor.

 

I thought about that. And you have a good chance of being right. It is a bosch pump bought new. How can I test it? Or should I just jump it to the battery and turn it on for a few test drives? I did check the fuse all good there. I do have a tester if I wanted to check it. Does the engine need to be at a certain temp and rpm for the pump to engage? Can it be checked standing still?

 

sensors fail too...that happened to me. Replaced the pump, then the sensor.....

 

Could you have crossed the wires when connecting the new pump? Did you plug the hoses or clamp the hoses when doing the install?...if plugged, maybe something is in the hose obstructing the flow?(I am speaking from experience!). Can use a bucket of water to test to see if it is pumping water. I thought if you rev the motor over 2000 rpm while in park the pump will turn on?

Sensor is another idea - inexpensive and easy to do.

 

Like other said, start with the basics:
1) Make sure the fuse is good. A lot of times the fuse is kaput.
2) Make sure your connections are correct. (A slim chance you got a dead pump)
3) Make sure you don't have air in the system. This can cause the pump to cavitate (not flow)
If none of that is your issue, then it might be your temp sensor. Have Autozone read your codes. There should be a "soft code" in memory if you have a sensor failing.

 

leaving air in the system is a common mistake....make sure you "burp" the system.... getting all the air out.. but follow the above advise....look at all those things... My car did not throw a code when the air temp sensor failed btw....

 

Just buy a cheap obd11 scanner and watch your temps real time. This would tell you if you're cooling OK.

 

I am curious and ignorant, how does one "burp the system"? I am going to change out my old I/C pump for a new BOSCH pump and I want to do it correctly the first time since it is bit labor intensive. Thank you in advance.

 

After refilling the radiator, you need to let the car run up to temp with the cap off the radiator. If you were to watch you will see the water/antifreeze mix burp letting out air. When air leaves usually you will see the water level drop. You add more mix until full. Cap it drive it, watch the temps. If it over heats, let it cool and repeat the procedure.

 

yes, watch your AIT's and let us know what you see

 

We do not have a radiator cap and you do not want the overflow tank filled to the brim, just to the fill mark.

 

Sounds like you might be having the same problem I did. Check out this thread it might be helpful.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ps-itself.html

 

Tomorrow's the big day going to install the Ic Pump i was told the best way to get to it was to take the passenger side front wheel off as opposed to taking the front bumper off any thoughts? Got the pump with the Bosh pump with the last two numbers 10 is it a basic plug-and-play? On the second owner Thought it was 17,000 miles just turned 20,000 miles Thinking about flushing out the system. good idea and should I go to the Mercedes-Benz dealership for the fluid to go back in. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks guys!

 

Here's a link that shows the steps for removal of the pump. Even though this is for the Johnson CM30 swap, just unplug the old Bosch and install/plug in the newer Bosch 10. No need to cut the plug as you would with the CM30 install. Simple plug & play. You can pretty much DIY or just show a reputable mechanic the pics and he should be able to do the swap in no time for a decent price.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...on-ic-pump.pdf

 

I AM AN IDIOT!!!!!!!!! And to save anyone else from the same fate I am sharing my experience as embarrassing as it is. But first thanks for the help provided on this topic. Please don't hunt me down and slap me for what I am about to reveal. Here it is:

In my quest to resolve my cooling issues with my supercharger after replacing my bosh pump and burping the lines my next option was to jump the pump power to an ignition on power point in the fuse box. When I opened the fuse box to find a suitable location I noticed a funny little thing called, well, a "FUSE" !!!!!! A FUSE !!!!!!!! A BURNT FUSE IN THE SPACE WHERE THE SUPERCHARGER PUMP'S FUSE IS LOCATED SLOT 13 I BELIEVE.

So now I drive a very functional, very cool running SRT-6 with a very functional supercharger with a brand new fuse wearing a t-shirt that says "i'm with stupid" but the arrow is pointing up.

I would like to add to the list of "items to investigate" while diagnosing a supercharger cooling problem, to "check the fuse first" ! lest anyone else be stuck wearing a dunce cap while driving around town in their beautiful SRT roadster.

 

Glad it worked out for you! However, many times the blown fuse is because of a failing pump.

 

I guess you didn't read Buggin's post #6

 

In post #3 you said you checked the fuse and all was good. Did you check the wrong fuse back then or did it blow sometime between then and now?

Glad you're up and running again

 

always take the positive cable loose when doing electrical work, lol.... Glad it worked out.