Newbie w/broken motor mount
So, just bought my first Crossfire, the SRT6 and just broke a motor mount. Just curious if this is a typical issue others have encountered. I work in an area that has some pretty crummy roads, but I don't think that was the because I got pretty good at playing pothole dodging
you will want to replace both motor mounts and the trans mount together as they are surely weakened with a motor mount broken. I have not seen one physically break yet, post pictures, usually they just leak out and go weak.
The dealership will be replacing my motor mounts tomorrow, then I'm doing the tranny mount next weekend. As soon as I get it back, I'll post those pics. My coworker helped confirm the left one broke. Jacked it up and there's almost two inches of gap between the motor mount and motor when you apply any usable torque.
I had my SRT for about 2k miles and my left mount broke. I don't know if it motor mounts are a weak spot or not. I replaced both mounts with ones I purchased on line. They were a lot cheaper ($115.69+shipping for both)than most of the other mounts I looked at, but were German made. Just had my mechanic put them on for $50.00. After I had already put them on, some people said that the ones I put on were not very well made in their opinion. I have had them for about 1.5 years and 6K miles and no problems. I drive on roads that are very twisty here in E. Tennessee, but not very many pot holes, etc. I drive quickly, but I am not hard on the car. This is the E-bay store I bought them at: STEERING SUSPENSION, BMW items in Deutsche Parts USA store on eBay! I never have had to replace the transmission mount. So far...... Good luck w/you SRT! I love mine!
Some people have used braided steel cable, or a chain to hold their motors down. But I think it's mostly for drag racing. But if it works under extreme use, it should be a little extra insurance for everyday use. Especially if the factory motor mounts are known to fail.
very timely thread....
I've noticed my gear shift moving around a bit more under WOT the last week.
Wondering if its always been like that? and I'm just noticing it now or....I've blown a mount because I've been pretending to be Sebastian Vettel too much..;>)
Be interested to know if your gear shift movement has abated since the new mounts went in?
PS - one always goes more than the other because when the engine twists - one is under tension and the other is under compression.
I've noticed my gear shift moving around a bit more under WOT the last week.
Wondering if its always been like that? and I'm just noticing it now or....I've blown a mount because I've been pretending to be Sebastian Vettel too much..;>)
Be interested to know if your gear shift movement has abated since the new mounts went in?
PS - one always goes more than the other because when the engine twists - one is under tension and the other is under compression.
very timely thread....
I've noticed my gear shift moving around a bit more under WOT the last week.
Wondering if its always been like that? and I'm just noticing it now or....I've blown a mount because I've been pretending to be Sebastian Vettel too much..;>)
Be interested to know if your gear shift movement has abated since the new mounts went in?
PS - one always goes more than the other because when the engine twists - one is under tension and the other is under compression.
I've noticed my gear shift moving around a bit more under WOT the last week.
Wondering if its always been like that? and I'm just noticing it now or....I've blown a mount because I've been pretending to be Sebastian Vettel too much..;>)
Be interested to know if your gear shift movement has abated since the new mounts went in?
PS - one always goes more than the other because when the engine twists - one is under tension and the other is under compression.
When my left motor mount broke, I could feel it in the shifter moving under acceleration and the engine would move enough to hit the hood of the car. I looked at the hood and could see where the top of the motor was hitting the underside of the hood. Not very hard to determine the problem really. Just replace the mounts and your good to go.
The driver side is always the one that breaks first, it isn't design to resist lifting over time, it is better at compression resistance. I replaced mine with OEM Mercedes from Rob and haven't had a problem since.
A steel cable is good to use until the new one comes in. If you take the cable off after it is replaced you will know the next time it breaks. I have an exhaust leak that I can start to hear now though.
We could all use a top SC mounted torque link or a third OEM mount. It would need to be on the driver side somewhere with the bottom of the OEM mount bracket attached to the engine and the top of the OEM mount bracket attached to the wheel well/braced to frame. This would compress the mount like the passenger side instead of trying to lift/stretch it.
A steel cable is good to use until the new one comes in. If you take the cable off after it is replaced you will know the next time it breaks. I have an exhaust leak that I can start to hear now though.
We could all use a top SC mounted torque link or a third OEM mount. It would need to be on the driver side somewhere with the bottom of the OEM mount bracket attached to the engine and the top of the OEM mount bracket attached to the wheel well/braced to frame. This would compress the mount like the passenger side instead of trying to lift/stretch it.
The driver side is always the one that breaks first, it isn't design to resist lifting over time, it is better at compression resistance. I replaced mine with OEM Mercedes from Rob and haven't had a problem since.
A steel cable is good to use until the new one comes in. If you take the cable off after it is replaced you will know the next time it breaks. I have an exhaust leak that I can start to hear now though.
We could all use a top SC mounted torque link or a third OEM mount. It would need to be on the driver side somewhere with the bottom of the OEM mount bracket attached to the engine and the top of the OEM mount bracket attached to the wheel well/braced to frame. This would compress the mount like the passenger side instead of trying to lift/stretch it.
A steel cable is good to use until the new one comes in. If you take the cable off after it is replaced you will know the next time it breaks. I have an exhaust leak that I can start to hear now though.
We could all use a top SC mounted torque link or a third OEM mount. It would need to be on the driver side somewhere with the bottom of the OEM mount bracket attached to the engine and the top of the OEM mount bracket attached to the wheel well/braced to frame. This would compress the mount like the passenger side instead of trying to lift/stretch it.
I looked at a friend of mine's Nissan GTR and he had a torque lin kinstalled from the Right hand side (RHS) block to the RHS suspension tower. My only concern with this is the engineering around the tower and if it will induce a twist which could upset handling.
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franklindm
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Mar 14, 2020 12:23 PM
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