1 vacuum your system.
2 find a place and install at least a 3 gal water tank. (if not sealed system tank needs to be above inter cooler) mine is where the batt. use to be.
3 the KC has two water connections and two ac connections,( ac high and low pressure)
4 cut your low pressure hose ,install a "T" connect the hose supplied and your factory hose.
5 do the same for the high pressure line ( it is smaller in dia.) the low side hose i cut just below the air intake on the driver's side,,,the high side i went under the car and cut just before the condenser
6. connect the short ac lines supplied, & the water hoses not supplied to the kc unit, & the expansion valve( if you have one of the older ones, ) if you have the new one see the pic below.
7 run the large ac hoses supplied to a point that you want the KC installed,(mine is behind the pass headlight), ( don't forget your K C unit so the hoses do not kink, so mount without sharp bends.
8 run your water hoses to and from the water tank to the pump and water tank to the inter cooler.
9. your KC water should be separated form engine water.mine runs from the water tank to the I C pump to the KC to the inter cooler, out of the inter cooler back to the 3 gal tank,
10. fill with freon, had to fill mine on low pressure side to about 50lbs, (40 is stock.
I sent this to Joe the owner of killer chiller and he replied below,, below are some pic of the IAT's when installed. any questions let me know jim



tell him you got the information for the crossfire from me ( JIM ) i think we get a discount.




This looks good except we are now using a TXV which is attached to the KC. So after installing the liquid line tee, just run the #6 A/C hose to the fitting on the KC with the orange cap. Same with the suction line tee, just run the #12 hose to the fitting on the KC with the white cap.
Attached is a picture of the new core assy.
Thanks,

Joe see IAT pictures here. Street Racing Made Safe 40 Mph Roll At Pnir 11-2-13 Photo by amx1397 | Photobucket

 

Jim
What refrigerant are you using? My system works great for 30 mins & then my high side pressures go thru the roof & I lose cooling? I know it is hooked up correctly as it works well when i first charge the system.
I have spent many hours trying to figure it out. I am wondering if the industrial 12a I am using is to cold for the txv orfice causing freeze up? May need to try 134a? Unfortunately I would have to spend a $150 just to try it because we can not buy it in the store here.

Thanks Barry

 

I am using 134 and to make it work properly I had to go to 50psi on the low side,, stock is about 40 psi,. jim

 

Thanks Jim
you do remember what your high side pressure was.

 

never checked the high side ,,when kc was installed reinstall the same 134 that came out.
(recover ac system) and it would get cold for the first 10 or so minutes, so i had a few cans of 134 , so i added one VERY SLOWLY psi was going up around 80 to 90 ,,,backed off went slow ,got the can in and the psi was holding around 50 psi been good for 2 years now. remember i have no,,,NO heat exchangers, when i first installed my KC i used a H E , could only get the iat's slightly below ambient, but would not stay there,, removed the HE,,now good,,
you might try with the 12a ,,,low side about 50 to 60. they will equal each other , when turned off anyway.
you have added hose so u need more freon ,,going up 10 psi just let the both (car $ KC work) jim

 

Freeze-up is usually caused by minute amounts of moisture deposits at the orifice tip when the liquid Freon flashes to a gas (at that point the moisture flashes to ice). Its a little simplistic an explanation but if your experiencing a freeze-up at the orifice tip that is what I would suspect. Did you evacuate the system (with an A/C evac pump) for 1/2 hour or more before you injected the refrigerant? One place many forget to watch out for, is displacing the 'air' in the hose between the refrigerant and the connector used with a small burst of refrigerant through the hose before completely tightening the hose on the device connector (hose on bottle tight, loosely on the other end, open valve slightly until refrigerant comes out of far end, then tighten connector at device fitting). The air in the hose just may have enough moisture in it to cause problems like this. Just a thought for you to consider... Good luck!

 

DO NOT USE R12. The service manual ONLY mentions R134 and has this paragraph :

 

George, forgive my ignorance but, does the 'killer chiller' use the cars A/C compressor and related? If so I was unaware of this. I thought the 'killer chiller' was a completely separate system installed. If it does use the same components, then mixing refrigerants will be a very expensive repair since neither should be cross-used in each others system as you say.

 

the KC is a new unit ,,never had refrigerant in it, so either could be used ,,whatever comes in your car,,we have 134 now. yuears ago we had 112,,, a killer chiller is like a van with duel ac,, front and rear air condition. one compressor, one evaporator/condenser ,,,the other evaporator/condenser is the kc... one cools the car as jt has always done and the KC cools the water going to the inter cooler /under the supercharger. longer lines = more 134. jim

 

Thanks amx, I was just affirming the post about possible mixing of refrigerant (George's post). The old refrigerant was R-12, I never heard of 112. Here is a pretty good history of R-12 and the newer R134a ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlorodifluoromethane ). Whatever is being used, the post from bdh said something about industrial 12a. George's post related to that, and I commented on George's post about mixing refrigerants. I did not know the killer chiller was a second 'zone' on the car A/C system. Like George said, only R134a should be used. If something other than R134a was installed in the car A/C system, it'll be extremely expensive when it (the system) totally fails

 

Industrial 12A is completely compatible with 134a. IT Is not R12, don't confuse the two.
Also you are not mixing anything as long as you stick with pag oil. as you need to completely evacuate the system. The only thing left is the oil. I vacuumed mine for two hours and leak tested it. No I definitely would not put R12 in, but normally you can use R12a which is what Joe Kincaid who makes these unit uses. I evacuated my car again and tried 134a. It seems to be working well so far, played with the volume a couple times and 2 pounds 9 oz seems correct. Give or take a couple of oz.
My sugestion is to only use 134a because I believe the orfice in the txv freezes up.
Need to drive it more to confirm it is working well.
Barry

 

Just another comment, you do know the orifice diameter is designed to the medium (refrigerant) in the system, don't you? On another note, nothing like muddying up the A/C tech world like something called industrial 12a (small 'a' per the specs). If the vehicle A/C world is changing the medium used again, I shudder to think how many mistakes are (or might be) made in the field. Oh my, how would you be able to tell what some mechanic put in there? Dang people can't leave well enough alone. I seen a couple of posts on the net about this stuff (industrial 12a). Just more ways to make us have to take our vehicles to some 'stealership'.

 

sorry i meant R 12 don't know why i typed 112 , maybe cause it must have been 1:12 in the morning LOL.. any way you got it right. jim

 

Now all we need is for Rudy to knock out a couple of those copper cored IC's for a good price and we're in business...;>)

 

OK here is an update on my killer chiller system for anyone interested?
After lots of trial & error it is working fine.
It seems that the ideal amount of refrigerant is 2 x 12 oz cans of 134a. NOTE USE 134A ONLY!
My system runs at idle or just city driving about 20 degrees Fahrenheit cooler that outside temp.
So on a 80 degree day my ait is approx 60 degrees. I have a flexilite fan installed in front of my condenser & that really helps when sitting in line at the track.
Other cars have gotten cooler ait & I think that is because my system has quite long runs. I have insulated all the plumbing as best as I can, but their is still heat soak from ambient sources. Everything is hidden & the tech guys have not even noticed it.
Didnt run any faster times with it, but the track days I have gone to had some very hi outside temps as we are having the hottest summer on record.

Barry

 

FYI, a txv is a thermostatic expansion valve, and it modulates the flow of freon to provide a given amount of super heat and should never freeze up though may close down if the system is too cold.

There is a bulb filled with a refrigerant that expands and contracts lifting or lowering a pin in its orfice to give a consistant cooling temperature. All residential units have gone to the txv to achieve the government's requirements of higher efficiency - 13.0 SEER ratings.

Auto Txvs also allow better operation and efficiency.

R12a is very flammable as it is mostly propane and isobutane, also illegal in the US.

Enjoy WDY

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a

 

Not sure of the gains, but would connecting the low pressure side directly to the IC be worth considering?
You do loose the heat sink effect (thermal inertia aforded by the tank - if you have one).
But you get rid of a heat exchange stage which would provide cooler temps.
Not sure of the condensation inside the IC - I guess a bit of "water injection" could also be a plus....

 

My AC works great the last few days 105f while driving my vent therm. reads in the low forty s .