If you go with the smaller SC pulley, you don't have increased speed of the pulley and ancillary stuff, water pump, idler, alternator, with a larger crank pulley you do have increased speed of belt, idler, water pump, etc. The best solution is stacked setup, SC 70mm, crank 181mm but you need larger capacity fuel pump, plus fuel pressure regulator and possibly larger injectors. I have the above setup, plus colder plugs, manis, DCAI, cooling mods, custom exhaust and Inmotion tune.

 

Increased belt speed with the same load on the pulley bearings will lead to earlier bearing failure, that is simple mechanics.

 

Have had the pulley from them for about 5-6k miles. Installed without a problem and hasn't had a problem with engagement nor grenading "thank god".

Might try and make a scatter shield though. Anyone know where we can buy one if not DIY?

 

Yes, send an IM to Chris ( latemodel21 ), he makes them.

 

I was looking into buying this pulley last year but never pulled the trigger on it. However, i'm now unable to find it on eBay. Is this vendor/pulley still around?

 

Yes, Let me find you contact information and I'll come back and edit this post . . . I've been running these on both of my SRT6 roadsters for years now . . .
NO ISSUES . . . VERY HAPPY!

Look here: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post851175

 

I am currently out of stock (on the M112k shield, I have the M113k shield in stock for V8 guys). If you send me an email at latemodel21@yahoo.com, I will let you know when the M112k shield is available again.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Im going the ASP crank pulley route now. I had the poland pulley, it lasted for about 2 years then the springs started making a noise like they were going to separate so I took it off. I got a LM21 shield and bought a 65mm pulley from Eurocharge in December last year. Well that pulley completely failed earlier this week. The snout of the pulley just split apart and had starting to cut into the front where the EGR piping is in front of the pulley, The scary part is that pulley had less then 2500 miles because I havent been driving my car as much lately.

 

Hopefully, your experience here will make it clear to others why it is SO important to inspect aftermarket supercharger pulleys regularly. So many of them fail sooner or later.

The crank pulley is good way to go. (I like the 181, but a 178 is great choice too). The last ASP kit I installed (2 weeks ago) seemed to have slightly undersized bolt holes on the Waterpump pulley (I checked an older ASP WP pulley I had on hand and they were drilled to approx .257" ... this one was closer to .238" making it hard to re-install the 4 bolts .... I drilled them out to .250" and it went together nicely).

If you are using the kit that comes with a 60mm smooth idler (replacing the factory 90mm idler) ... check this pulley for loss of lube (and chatter) periodically, I have yet to see one last longer than 30,000 miles before it came apart shooting the pulley into the underpan (and of course the belt come off ... no power steering , no alt , no water pump .... ) . If you are using the kit that comes with a Needswings PSK , it comes with a more suitable idler, so you should not have to worry about this issue.

Cheers,
Chris

 

The after market pulleys with a bearing that is too large on the O/Dia will cause stress on the pulley at the root of the rib that overhangs or nearly overhangs the bearing, the dog bones are also weak spots. Some years back I said that they would all fail as in fact the OEM fails at times. Some of the aluminum ones were early failures and the steel ones took a little longer.

 

I got your PM, just haven't had time to measure the bearing. It is a blk nachi bearing. I will note that I think the bearing ate into the pulley and thinned it out causing it to fail. I was supposed to had sent this thing back because I told EC that the pulley bearing had develope play. It was literally sliding within the pulley back and forth. It still was working so I didnt think much about it then the pulley snout split apart and that is that. Bearing is fine, the pulley is toast.

 

Good stuff, I just shot him a message. I already have the Eurocharged ECU tune so hopefully they can provide me with a re-flash for their 65mm pulley since I can't imagine their pulley isn't terribly different from the IBF.

Side note, is a bigger/upgraded heat exchanger neccesary for a 65mm pulley setup, or is it just "recommended"?

 

 

65mm IBF pulley.......no problems ! Did get a re-flash.

 

Thanks for the info! I'm running a Needswings I/C isolation kit and a Johnson CM30 I/C pump so it sounds like I should be just fine w/ the 65mm setup.