the correct option would be to leave it parked untill you can fix it the correct way . Youve already mentioned something about getting prices worked out from stores to do it the correct way. Surely this isnt the customers only car.

 

Shaft should be removed and minimally cleaned up concentrically on bearing diameter and shoulder, with laser welded beads added around the shaft diameter where the bearing sits and then reground to the original diameter obtain a good bearing fit on a new bearing. Anything else is a waste of time.

 

Never questioned his knowledge, I'm just documenting what's going on and trying to write up to have an explanation out there for any one else that seems to run into this issue.
I've gotten people's knowledge on what could be wrong but no fixes. It's frustrating to see people poke fun rather than try and explain a better solution. I did receive a phonecall from AMX who was very helpful in diagnosing my issue which I do appreciate.

We've decided to hold of on liquid steel / jb welding or anything and are waiting for the new blower to inspect it's shaft and then probably use that one instead and hold onto the old one for parts.

I wasn't expecting some one to come in and solve my problems nor do I believe it was owed to me, but the trolling on a diagnostics thread is immature at best, and hopefully you can see why I'm frustrated.

 

It's my car, and I just wanted it driving again. We decided against jb weld due to the fact that once it sets it can cause damage if done improper and are waiting on the new blower to see if we can just use my old blowers parts to help rebuild if necessary. Old blower is in great shape, just shaft is worn and warped.
I've just grown impatient because it's been sitting for two weeks and I love being able to drive my car. New blower shows up monday/tuesday and hopefully on by thursday.

 

Worn shafts can be rebuilt, if your knowledge of engineering thinks my statements are ridiculous then god help you. Most shafts are expensive and it costs money to toss away a cheaply repairable part.
You have had second thoughts on JB Weld so there is some hope, I have a complete set of photos a SC in pieces, I added one to the thread to help you.
How heat transfer can contribute to shaft wear I cannot see, heat has ruined the magnet before but I can see no sign of that damage.
Buying a SC is a waste of money if you are just using one part from it, especially as your existing part can be saved.

 

If you're talking about the gap of the clutch to magnet; it is normal to have a slight bit of difference. It's the springs of the SC pulley that have slightly different spring strength(for a lack of my better description of the physics). When I've changed my SC pulley on a couple of occasions, I've had to shim, then take it for a run, and then re-shim after the pulley found its equilibrium(static resting place) Anyway, AMX probably already talked about this with you, and perhaps you do have other problem. Just wanted to bring this aspect up. Did your mechanic use a dial indicator on the shaft itself?

 

The general consensus from Eurocharged, Needswings and the mechanic were that if the shaft is worn and warped that you can't fix that and you're better off with a new supercharger, again I never said your idea was ridiculous nor questioned your knowledge.

I am 100% in the dark with this, I love my car and want it running again. I will be uploading the video here today I hope which should hopefully clear up a lot of things. How would you consider rebuilding a worn and warped shaft? I'm not saying you're wrong or anything like that, my mechanic and I and it seems a lot of other people are at a loss as to what to do to actually get this shaft in correct shape again.

(I did forward the cleaning up the shaft and laser welded beams bit you mentioned to my mechanic as to see if he thinks that's something he can accomplish)

 

wasnt trying to ridicule you at all. I totally understand you wanting to drive your car again. Im the same way. How would you feel if you rigged it and was able to drive it for 1 day and what you rigged tore something else up and now you have the original problem plus other problems now, and now your car is sitting again with several problems.Thats how my luck goes.

 

im really suprised if this is a common problem that they dont have some sort of a repair sleeve

 

NOT a common problem. First I've heard of it.

 

[QUOTE=dinasrt;921059]NOT a common problem. First I've heard of it.[/QUOTE
Me too, it looks like rust has been attacking the surfaces. Maybe the parts were dismantled and left in a damp spot for a while.
We know no history of the car, mileage etc. I can see the shaft getting bent if it was all rusted together at one point and hammered apart. Normally a little grease gets by the bearing seals but I see none,everything is bone dry and rusty.

 

[QUOTE=onehundred80;921060]I bought it from a gentlemen up in Dewey, Az.. he babied it.. the other previous 2, I have no clue how badly it was maintained..

 

[QUOTE=EdwardB;921061]Best of luck with it. Keep us informed how it works out for you.

 

[QUOTE=dinasrt;921068]Thank you!

My mechanic did say that onehundred80's way was do-able so we are going to explore that option. I'm not sure why I would be told there was no way by a couple of companies who service our car.

So huge shout out to onehundred80!

I do want to see this blower ordered from ebay and then explore from there.
Again I want to thank all of you who have tried helping me out, as this has been such a headache. I really do appreciate the outreach that has came out of the crossfire community,.

 

dial indicator for wear ?

 

[QUOTE=EdwardB;921076]Please see post #26. I'm going to go out on a limb here(and no offense to you intended), but after looking at your u-tube video again, I think your mechanic is full of $hit, and doesn't understand the nature of our SC clutch/pulley. He talks and questions the slight difference in the "air gap" as he calls it, and mentions using sandpaper for correction!? I'm thinking he could have just put the serpentine belt back on and you'd be good to go! JEEZ! So I ask again; did he use a dial indicator on the output shaft?

 

[QUOTE=dinasrt;921080]dial indicator for what reason?

 

NO; For that you'd use a micrometer. Dial indicator for the claimed warped output shaft.

 

exactly but i guess i missed where he was concerned about it being warped is what i was getting at

 

My mechanic is most definitely not full of it. He's not trying to sell me on labor or parts, again I need to find the time to upload the most recent recording. He used a tool that did measure and isn't clueless.
Again, my pulley slides in and out of the shaft with NO resistance. This is on cold metal, not hot metal where you're supposed to use a towel to remove the pulley, he can do it with out the heat and put it on with out a mallet, that's how bad the shaft is when it comes to gripping the pulley