The reason I asked is because I've thought about cleaning up the casting on my intake plenum boxes(?) and polishing it out...but was worried about the excessive heat. The underhood heat on these cars is crazy. Even the plastic engine cover is scorching after you park the car.

I was also wondering how thick they were because some of that casting is quite rough and would take some work to get through it.

 

Actually...radiating heat away from the engine would be more successful with cooling fins....like on an air cooled engine. (think motorcycle or lawn mower)

In this case...less mass will remove heat better than a large, thick casting, which would hold a lot of heat.

The biggest issue here, as I see it, is making sure there's enough mass to withstand thermal cycles without cracking.

 

The outside polishing is strictly for aesthetic purposes... I want this engine to look good as well as run good... the inside grinding / polishing is to get rid of the very rough surfaces caused from the sand casting and the burrs that are everywhere...

I would never do this again, It is taking WAY too much time and has destroyed 3 Dremel Tools and 3 Black & Decker versions... Next time, I'll pay somebody to do it for me...

As far as insulating the IC, I'm having an insulation blanket made to fit between the V and the IC... There is a gap of about 3/4" +/- ... That in combo with the new Bell heat exchanger, chiller tank and fin tube (heat sink) and increased tube diameter, should reduce the heat substantially... Unfortunately I will not have a base temp from the OEM to set-up to compare it...

 

Here's the engine ready for re-assembly after the Schrick cam install... Now to put it back together and pull the old one... Clean is good !!!

 

So much more to do

 

that looks really good HDDP and im with u where the hell is woody

 

Actually, I can get you baseline temps for comparison, just tell me where you want to take them from.

Lookin good Derek!!!

 

d a m n hddp you are going to have a s h i t ton of fun dude!

 

It would be great to have IC coolant temps at the IC intake, but I can't see how you could do that... I'm curious to see what the OEM temps are and what the temps will be when I finish my plumbing ... Because I know that I will have some HP increase when the engine is completed and would like to be able to whiddle it down to specifics... Unfortunately, we don't have the luxury of doing one mod at a time and comparing the difference..

Because now, I won't be able to log exactly how much HP increase is directly related to the cooler charge air...

 

Don't be too happy, I'm not sure the manual tranny is going to work yet This is a slow work in progress... And I thought I would have time to work on it more considering the WGA strike, but the sad truth is that I just got hired on to do the new Knight Rider movie of the week... We start on Friday... All I can say is that it'll give me some extra money, but lengthen my time to completion... And we get to shoot a bunch of car chases and crashes !!!

 

Looking good derek.

 

Looks like you will know every molecule of that engine by name.

Much as I love the photos your iphone takes I hope you break out a hi-res camera for some detail photos before the "landmark" engine disapears into an engine bay.

 

i read this post, thats how i want start lol, but who is going to do the ecu programming??? are you using the stock na 5 speed ecu or the srt ecu or do you have a stand alone system??? im sure it was asked and answered but its late im sleepy and i want to go to bed, therefore im asking lol

 

Here is a quote from HDDP on the fact that is Crossfire is completely race prepped ...
Hope that answers your question.

 

The iphone takes really bad photos in comparison, but it's always in my pocket, so is the camera of choice... The top end parts are out for polishing, so before I reassemble this thing I'll shoot some good shots...

 

Thank's Jody... Unfortunately this process is going to slow down a bit because I start shooting the re-make of Knight Rider on Monday till Dec. 21st...

 

Thanks Mike... It's become a mission... Hopefully not a Mission Impossible

 

HDDP

I am going to be cleaning my engine all day as well as taking measurements. I was wondering if you could help me with a couple of measurements since you have the V6 on the engine stand. I am going to try to get these as well by putting my car on jackstands and crawling under.

1. Overall engine length from rear of engine, bell housing mating surface to the front edge of the oil pan.

2. Inner Diameter of of exit pipe of stock exhaust manifold and bolt spacing of the two bolts that connect to down pipe.

3. distance from bellhousing mating surface of engine to where the engine mount bolts to the block

Thank you

 

Sure, give me a few hours... it's 12:40 pm pst

 

Lantana, here's the dimensions you asked for

Exhaust manifold exit at the downpipe connection ID is 46mm
Bolt holes center to center is 80mm

The edge of the bell housing to the center of the mounting bolt of the engine mount (this is the top bolt shown in this photo) is 10 5/8"

And the edge of the bell housing to the leading edge of the lower oil pan is 23"... There are actually 2 oil pans on these engines, but I knew you needed the furthermost forward edge...

I hope this helps, if you need any other measurements let me know...