Okay... so 3/8" plate for the main tank and 3/16" plate for the freeze tanks? Do you want me to refine the design I made to include the studs and wing nuts along with proper plate thickness? I have already added the fill port and inlet/outlet ports to my drawing.

First thing I would do is practice on some scrap pieces the same thickness that you will be putting together. Make several beads about one or two inches long to get the feel of it. After you've done about a dozen or so you should get the feel of it.

 

My car is REALLY gutted, an empty shell... I have not decided exactly where to put the tank yet, It all depends on the location of the MOTEC placement... Either it will be in the foot well of the passenger side, just aft of the fire wall, or it will be back near the new FireSafe fuel tank... The further away from the engine, the less cooling will be introduced into the CAC, so I'm hoping to keep it in the foot well...

 

I think he recomends that mixture because it's not as corrosive on the metals, but I would ask him to be sure. As far as I know there is no liquid as efficient as water for a cooling system. those other chemicals are for resistance to freezing and some corrosion inhibitors.

 

Cool idea and design.
I don't know if you've thought of this or not so I'll just put it out there. I assume you are going to fill the freeze tanks full of water and then put them in a freezer to freeze them. Don't forget the ice is going to expand the freeze tanks, possibly splitting the tanks or at least making them swell, so you might need a little bit of extra clearance in the coolant tank where the freeze tanks slid in.
Also a suggestion for when you weld up the tanks. After the tanks have cooled pour Denatured alchohol in the tanks and tip the tanks to let the alchohol cover the weld seams if there is a leak Denatured alchohol will find it. Hope these help and good luck.

 

Xfire fan,

I thought of that while doing some updates on the design... so here is version 2!!!

Basically I slightly widened the openings in the main tank by a 1/8th wider to 2 and 5/8th of an inch. I also made the overlap on the freeze tank lips wider for better sealing. Lastly, I shrank the length of the freeze tanks by a 1/8th of an inch to 5 and 7/8ths of an inch. This will give good thermal expansion variance for the freeze tanks vs. the main tank.

Also, I would suggest using Aircraft fittings instead of simple bungs for the inlet and outlet. Just weld on Aeroquip base 35 degree fitting bungs to the tank. Then you just put proper fittings on your hose and it's easy-sneezy...

 

Great tips... However, I realized that my welding skills would cause more damage than good, so I took my mock-up and Jody's plans over to my buddies metal fabrication shop to get his professional opinion and an estimate to build it... He was duly impressed by both my foam-core mock-up and Jody's engineering plans... He did make some suggestions, recommendations and comments... First he said to make the entire thing out of 1/8" 5057... Second, he said that it should be made to limit the welds by bending the ends up and sides over and welding the joints, instead of cutting 6 seperate pieces of aluminum and welding each edge... Then he said, "Let me just build this damned thing for you, because I've seen your welding and it sucks"... I didn't disagree !!! He also said he would build 6 "freeze" tanks so they could be kept in a cooler and replaced between events...

So, tomorrow I'm off to "Industrial Metal Supply" to buy some 1/8" 5057, find a srew cap fitting, some aircraft pipe barbs and hope that he gets the thing completed before I collect Social Security...

PS: when I got home today, I was pleased to see the new Johnson Pump sitting on my doorstep... This thing is TINY, but HEAVY... Looks to be well built...

Slowly but surely the parts are arriving and making me feel like the is a light at the end of this engine swap tunnel !!!

 

BTW, I forgot to mention a few weeks ago I received the "phenolic spacers" from EvoSport... I don't know if their induction temperature reduction claims are true, but these things are nothing but 3mm thick gaskets that look like they are made out of fiberglass...

I looked-up the term phenolic in Wikipedia and this is what I came up with...

Phenolic resin can include any of various synthetic thermosetting resins, obtained by the reaction of phenols with simple aldehydes and used to make molded products, including pool and snooker *****, and as coatings and adhesives. See phenol formaldehyde resin for a fuller discussion of the chemistry.
The properties of phenolic materials make them very well suited to myriad industrial applications. Phenolics are the result of polymerization between resin and a base material that can be paper, glass or cotton. The base material used is dependent upon the intended application of the finished product. Paper phenolics are used in the manufacturing of electrical components such as punch-through boards. Glass phenolics are particularly well suited for use in the high speed bearing market.
Bakelite is made from phenolic resin.

Bakelite /?b?k??la?t/ is a material based on the thermosetting phenol formaldehyde resin, polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride developed in 1907–1909 by Belgian-American Dr. Leo Baekeland. Formed by the reaction under heat and pressure of phenol (a toxic, colourless crystalline solid) and formaldehyde (a simple organic compound), generally with a wood flour filler, it was the first plastic made from synthetic components. It was used for its electrically nonconductive and heat-resistant properties in radio and telephone casings and electrical insulators, and was also used in such diverse products as kitchenware, jewelery, pipe stems, and children's toys. In 1993 Bakelite was designated an ACS National Historical Chemical Landmark in recognition of its significance as the world's first synthetic plastic.[1]
The retro appeal of old Bakelite products and labor intensive manufacturing has made them quite collectable in recent years.
The name Bakelite was originally a brand, trademark name, but it is currently considered a generic term for all phenolic resin products, though some phenolic products besides Bakelite are brand-named. [citation needed].


Ah well, at least we have answers to the questions posted in another thread...
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...henolic+spacer
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...henolic+spacer

 

Yep, that's the Johnson CM30 alright... I thought 'Damn, that's tiny!!!' when I got it, but it hums quietly along pumping fluid.

Glad the plans helped and I look forward to seeing the end product so I will better know how to design plans next time.

Cheers!

 

Man I wish the email notifications were working so I could keep up! Nice design work!

SQ

 

MMZ, I thought you would enjoy seeing a half-way point with the plenums... They still need a few edges shaved and grooves ground and then a serious jewlers rouge polish... I've increased the LxW of the port by 3mm W X 5mm L and had the new gaskets made... And it took forever to polish the entire inside... I should have cut them in half then re-welded them...

PS: Where the heck is WOODY ?

 

Nicely done... Look forward to seeing this 'jewel' in the middle of your black engine bay.

Woody? I suspect he's very busy with work. Sounds all too familiar eh?

 

It's a slow but sure process MMZ... The top end is done except for sending it out to polish... I think you'll get an idea of the time it took just to get this metal down to it's current state by looking at your engine and these photos... I must have shaved 2lbs of aluminum and magnesium off...

IC

SC

SC/IC MATED

 

NOW THAT'S A SWEET FIT

 

 

 

WOW.....great photos.

I now have a much better idea of just how closely the SC and IC are interrelated!

Thanks!

Additionally.....bakelite is also used by metallurgists the world over to make mounts for metallurgical samples!

 

Now imagine the placement of the SC/IC into the V at the top of the engine and you can get an idea why I'm re-designing the cooling system for the IC... It's got to get hot as hell wedged underneath the SC inside the V of the block...

Bakelite is a terrific product, I'm just not sure if it's going to reduce intake temps as much as advertised by EvoSport...

 

HDDP that is just awsome! I'd love to get out there once it's all done and see it on the track!

GREAT SHOW

 

Looking good. In your experience, how much more heat does a fully smooth/polished piece of metal hold when compared to something with a rough surface?

The SRT-6 boxes are always hot as hell on my car. Granted, it has the stock heat exchanger, and no additional reservoir or pump...so the additional heat the polished surfaces hold may be irrelevant on your car.

Either way, it will look slick.

Which pieces are magnesium?

SQ

 

If the heat is generated inside the item then black will radiate the heat best, if the heat is going to be radiated into the item, ie from a hot engine the shiny surface will reflect more heat. Shouldn't be a huge difference between a polished surface and a slightly dulled casting.

Roughness - wonder if the larger surface area helps with radiation?

All quite marginal - the IC and and ice will make this machine quite different to an SRT! (Plus the lack of interior and custome ECU)