The scanner gives 3 different possible things wrong. So if you replace all four o2 sensors and rebuild the air intake valve now you want to buy a scanner......... dealer will be cheaper. I will start the two o2 sensors and I will keep track of time and cost. We'll see how it comes out.

 

15 bucks for my scanner.. read and clear codes.. dealer won't raise the hood for 15 bucks!

 

An OBD is invaluable. And my scanner told me which bank and sensor had issues.

I replaced one sensor for $72 bucks and voila. She is purring like a kitten once again.

Stealer, would have charged me $70 beans just to open the hood. Heck you cant even get the oil changed at a stealer for that price.

 

I don't even see how his math works in that earlier statement.. dealer having a "buy one get two free" sale on sensors?

Okay..after re reading apparently he isn't aware the scanner will tell you where the sensor location is.. he's thinking toss sensors in till it's fixed.. typical dealer style repairs.. lol

 

I had the engine light come on and took it to a dealer in Vancouver, Canada. They told me it needed an o2 sensor at a cost of $800. I purchased a INNOVA Dianogstic reader and it showed a code 'P2098'. Based on that I replaced the Post Cat Bank 2 sensor ($120) and cleared the code. 50 miles later the same code triggered the check engin light.

I don't understand the O-Ring thread since the Post sensor compares readings after gases pass throught CAT to readings before the gases passes through the CAT ; checking the performance of the CAT. Can someone please explain?

 

I had three possible things wrong, bad gas, bad lean o2 sensor (no bank called out) or manifold leak. I replaced the two lean o2 sensors which cost about $300. Light came on after about 100 miles. I would be nice if I had only one code. I guess I will take it in have someone look at it. I had alot of trouble with Germany cars, it cost a lot to keep them running. I have had great luck with American cars. Wish I had bought American.

 

When you see 1/2 as was mentioned, the first number indicates bank one or driver side. Second number indicates the downstream or after cat o2 sensor. So your code tells you to look at the drivers side downstream sensor.

If you had simultaneous codes, 1/2 and 2/2, then I would suspect air leak at T Body. With only one code, I would suspect sensor. Any air leak after the MAF sensor will give impression of lean condition for both banks.

 

After almost Yr of looking , My car was doing the same thing 2098 2096 codes it could be two things that i found on TB the O RING ,There are two boots that TB go into ,these come with some kind of grease in them that keep them sealed around the TB , Clean the boots real good and the ribs on them will open back up and should seal real tight , it been about two years and no codes to this day , really it is easy fix
,

 

I am not sure about that code as my O2 was a p0168 code. I am not sure if that is for the downstream sensors. My sensor was the drivers side post cat sensor.

I am not familiar with the p0298 code.

ANyone else? Are these codes pre-cat codes?

 

I found the problem. Throttle body bolts were loose. I still removed the tb, cleaned and replaced the o-ring ($17.00).

 

I’m getting a P2098 code which is telling me that the drivers side downstream sensor is having an issue. However, the check engine light will come on for a couple of days then go out for a couple of days.

I’m still playing around with this even though I’ve purchased an O2 sensor for that side. One of my fellow workers, a BMW owner and avid do it yourselfer, has and continuing to suggest, it the gas.

I have mixed emotions on this, I’ve changed gas stations and done the Sea Foam on a couple of tank fulls. I am thinking I might as well go ahead and change this sensor. By the By, exactly where is the downstream sensors located post converter?

 

Yes the post cat sensors are after the cat and they are opposite each other with the wires connecting to the harness in the center of the car. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out once you are under there. Just a little back and under the tranny you will see them.

Pretty simple fix and although mine shouldn't have gone so quickly (30k) after a change I no longer had my code.

 

nate-man

I appreciate that, I knew they were back there somewhere and couldn’t find any pictures or drawings of exactly where they were. I have some ramps and was thinking of backing up on them to get the clearance to work under the car.

I’ve done a few oil changes but never noticed where the down stream O2s were located. I had a garage do the top O2s, and still have some pain in a certain location on my backsides. So, this one I’ll do myself.

 

Drive onto your ramps as you will need the access from the front of the car. You may need to pull the undercarriage plastic guard (same for changing the oil) and you will have clear access to them. I removed my plastic guard a while back as I felt it kept too much heat on my engine.

Once this is done you will get to them quite easily and the only pain you will have in your backsides may be if your as old as me climbing under the car! LOL!

 

Ok, put in both sides of the post cat O2 sensors $93 and $113, why the price difference I don’t understand other than the part number they both look the same to me. Once on the ramps I spent about 15 to 20 minutes under the car. The drivers side came readily, however, the passenger side was a bit more stubborn and I had to use foot and leg power to break it loose.

I had purchased the OEM replacement Bosch units from car-stuff.com, plug and play. Check Engine light went off and good readings on the OBD and that’s the end of that adventure.

The two O2’s on top must be a breeze since they are just hanging right out there, don’t let the dealer put the screws to you, this repair top or bottom is just to easy.

 

Just another little twist of interest here.. Mine would pop a cel about every two weeks .. 02 sensors both sides (would clear the code and it would be back). Approximately 4 weeks ago I ended up having to replace my crank positioning sensor.. and cleared all codes at that time.. and have yet to have the 02 sensors pop the cel again..

 

The light came on again. I am going to look for an air leak in a different area.

 

The latest... I have had the TB off four times, bought (2) TB o-rings and (2) rear O2 sensors. I bought hose clamps and clamped every thing I could on the funky TB hose assembly. Tripped the service engine light and drove it 35 miles and the light came on again. When I started having problems with this was after I replaced the air filter and the car sit through the winter and I started driving it this spring the light came on for the first time. I decided to change the air filter and bought a different brand Nappa. I tripped the light and drove the car 60 miles and the light came on again. I was going to take it to have someone look at it. First I decided to drive it to our family reunion which is 600 miles, light was on. I came home and it sat overnight. I took it out for a short drive the next day and the light was no longer on. I have driven it a couple of hundred miles and the check engine light is still off.

 

One last thing. I had a bad air filter it was a Wix air filter. If you have a defective air filter, it will take 600 miles before the check engine light will come on. The car's computer takes 600 miles two average the input to determaine if something is wrong and 600 miles to determine if the proble has been fixed. The point is that people are paying big bucks on this code and I would start with the air filter.

 

M112 eng, if very picky about having any kind of air leak or vacum leak , from TB to the muffler ,yes a bad filter could have give the codes , I beat my head this thing for over a year , before i got it all work out