Last week I changed my oil and filter for the second time since I've owned my 2004, which I purchased earlier this past spring. Each time I have had difficuilty with the large O ring that is above the threds on the plastic recepticle that holds filter. It seems that again the O ring failed, loosing its shape and allowing oil to seep out. Each time I've tightened the cap as tight as I dare with an oil filter wrench, ensuring the the O ring is still round on all sides. Then after the engine is warm I bring the RPMS up and increase the oil pressure to ensure that its not leaking. Each time I've changed the oil I have had problems with the large upper O ring which becomes compressed and gets out of round. I have not had a probelm with the new filter & O ring untill today. Prior the O ring was fine and not leaking. Today on a trip I had my foot into the throttle a few times and happened to notice what appeared to be exhaust smoke at approximately 90ish MPH when passing?? Got home poped open the hood and saw a mess!!!!!! O ring is flat on one side and leaking??? Is this normal??Is there a secret to installing the Oring?? Tightening specs??

 

You should not be using a filter wrench to tighten the filter. It just needs to be barely hand tight. There should be a colored line on the filter housing and the base to show the proper alignment. Sounds to me that you are way over tightening the filter housing.

 

That was my initial thought. However, if I don't tighten it with the wrench it leaks?? I'm going to get a new filter with the rings and try again..Will keep the thred updated. Thanks for the advice..

 

It sounds like you are also not getting the ring positioned properly.....it doesn't go up against the cap, but rather in the groove about 1/16th of inch below the cap. A light coating of fresh oil will also keep it from binding on you.

 

The large "O" ring goes in the groove right above the threads, NOT in the one up next to the cap lip. This might be your problem ..... the filter housing should have a torgue value on the top of the cap to guide you in tightening. You'll need a filter cap fitting (cheap) that fits with a 3/8in fitting on top for a socket, and a torque wrench to tighten. I don't remember the torque value for tightening. Hope this helps your problem

EDIT: once tightened and torqued, mark the cap and housing with a small amount of white liquid paper on an edge. Then you just need to tighten to that mark. Makes it easy to double check occasionally also ....

 

It says right on the cap 25 nm which is roughly 19ft lbs. I believe the hand tight "spec" is for spin on filters.

 

Ok...I sure messed this up...I just returned to view these responses after improperly installing the O Ring...I have it just under the lip of the housing above the upper end of the threads.Tightened more than by hand...A filter wrench was required......I ran the previous filter that way for 6K miles.....Guess I'll go back out and change it..... ..

 

Thanks for all the assistance and advie...I now have the O ring in the proper location. There was an old flat one in the groove...Had to put on my old man reading glasses to even see it !
Thanks again..

 

Yea, payback IS a b*tch! "Bust my windsheild, and I'll run your *** over"!

 

Glad you solved it! Once you have the "O" ring in the proper place, hand tight should be all you need. That is what I have since I purchased the car 3 years and 25K miles ago. I change it at 5K mile intervals regardless and have never had a leak at the cap....knock, knock on wood.......Also, be sure to remember to push or seat the filter on the filter stick/cap all the way, just like in the pic that comes wit the filter. The first time changing the fluids I was a bit confused and did not want to push too hard on the filter, but after studying the instructions, I found that I needed to in order to get all of the "lines" lined up. I pushed a bit harder on the filter and it popped into place like it was supposed to and everything was fine. Been doing the same thing since.

I hope this all makes sense...It is SO much easier to show someone something than to try to verbalize it!

Sounds like you got it though!

Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

What would be fair punishment for a door ding???

 

Boy, I hope no one comes down on me the way my last posting on tire pressure sensors. When replacing the oil filter torque the oil filter housing to 18 ft. lbs. For all those who think their smarter than me all of my numbers and proceedures are from diyalldata.com, the only manual I was able to purchase for this vehicle. I hope this helps. If your trying to out smart me, then you are an eliteist know it all who knows better than the manuals. Everyone, do yourselves a favor go to sears an buy yourselves an inch pound torque wrench in addition to a ft lbs Wrench.

 

There was only one reply to your posting about tpms, and it was not in any way a negative or derogatory comment. I don't know what your problem is, but you can post facts on here without being a ***** about it. Who on here is being an elitist know it all? Since you are telling others to do themselves a favor, I will return the favor. Do yourself a favor, and chill the **** out! And, just how smart do you need to be to read a manual? Plus, if you were really smart, you could have gotten the same information from the Crossfire Service Manual on page 7 - 797 which is a free download on this site along with all other Crossfire manuals.

From the Service Manual:

3. Install the filter and cap (1). Tighten to 25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).

 

The first time I change the oil I took a good long look at the filter assembly before I touched it. It's different than any other car I've owned and being prehistoric, I've learned not to go faster than I can process what my eyes see. If it leaks around the cap you screwed something up. Nothing to be ashamed of, it happens. Only ****** will mess with you. I've also learned to follow instructions. If it says 25 nm, 30 or 35 is not better. I've tested this theory and it's false! When you mix dinosaurs with people in puberty things can get testy. Glad you figured out what happened and ignore the hormones and lack of them too.

Les

 

I'm not wishing to sound like an elitist know it all but you obviously do not know that there is a spell checker available for people like you and I who do not know how to spell all the millions of words in the English language.

I notice that diyalldata.com is not doing so good as the domain is up for sale and there is no info there at all.

Taking info from even the Chrysler manual is at times risky as there are some glaring errors in it. I do not know what manual you are using but if it is based on the Chrysler one then rewriting any info can introduce new errors. It was probably done by someone who knew squat about the subject and cared even less.

The info I added after your TPMS post was based on what I had discovered after some research, yours seemed to be based on what some mechanic told you, but I guess he knows a lot about Crossfires.
So why don't you do yourself a favor and not get so snotty with your replies. I did not 'come down on you', I just thought what you had said was not entirely true.