Max was referring to the hoses, not the connections on the can, and musing about if there would be a discernible difference between the left and right valve cover vent hoses in regards to connecting them both to a tee that would then go to the single IN port on the can.......

Personally, I have the NW can with 3 ports, so I have no concerns.

 

Okay lets simplify this.. before I'm on my head trying to figure this out .. Right or Wrong?

Two lines run to a T connector at the throttle body..
Replace those two lines with longer hose and connect to a port on the "new" catch can with a T or Y.
Pull a new line from the left over port on the catch can to the original connecting point (T on throttle body) and put a cap-plug on the left over side of the T at the throttle body.

Sound on track?

 

Exactly so - just make sure the vacuum port on the can is connected to the throttle body port.

Generally, catch cans have a long tube almost to the bottom for the vapors / oil to come in, and no tube for the connection to vacuum.

 

I'm guessing if you used as is - unmodified - one port is as good as the other on the can since there is no internal baffle setup..

 

Maybe, but check for a long tube as in previous post.

 

I see that but the Tee would be subject to a pressure from the can. So the pressure at each cover outlet would be the same, the Tee would do what a two inlet can would do.

 

I agree 100%

 

Indeed, the catch can has no stuffing in it, hence diminishing it's ability in capturing oil fumes. You guys input got me thinking about what would be the best media that would allow the fumes to condensate on and at the same time conduct the heat to the outside aluminium wall of the tank. I went to the grocery store and picked up stainless steel spiral scrubers and copper scouring puffs. After shaping them in my hands, the copper ones would appear to be a better choice, letting the fumes thru it more easily.

Soooo, some time in the future, I will be pipecutting the tank open, stuffing it with copper scrubber and tigging it back together.

IMO, 3 port is better, letting fumes in along each side of the tank at a lower velocity. The ports are flush to the top of the tank, no straws. The pcv port is the center one. the extra fitting is 1/4npt/90/3/8. The black tube is 3/8" synflex.

 

Thanks for catching back up to us!.. Was considering media to put in myself.. Steel wool... considering there is condensation in the fumes.. I would think over a short period would start to rust away. I agree totally with the copper mesh as a filler. I did notice a few in the 30 dollar range that "look" like the top could come off of. Guess I'll do some vender emails and see what comes up. What does Needswings charge on these..isn't it around 140 or so? Would leave a whole bunch of wiggle room to tweak them into being more efficient.

 

Here it is:NeedsWings Crossfire Oil Catch Can Kit

$128+shipping. It most likely is efficient but not much of a looker, IMO

 

Good choice. See post #5?

 

Me too. See post #11?

 

I'd say you saved me some emails.. LOL.. Hopefully it is a "square" build so the top can be oriented around 90 degrees from shown. Now to find it in OSU orange.. LOL. Even if these only gain 50% of Needswings.. that's a 50% cleaner intake system - and I like the fact you have a visible oil level accumilation guage.

 

not supposed to be a looker more of a worker! its functional complete and plug and play. works like a charm and tucked neatly away. no need to flash like chrome as its purpose is functionality not bling

 

Buddy, it does make a difference to some of us!

I've seen the NW can-it's a fine design-but, it (all catch cans) is a very simple device and can work even if it is cheap.

Or pretty.

Plug-n-play is nice, but not for my extra $90.

JMHO, you understand. I'm sure. Right?

BTW-what's inside YOUR can?

I've used oil mist eliminators for vacuum pumps for 30+ years. These are more-or-less the same things. I buy mine from Kurt J. Lesker and prefer their house brand because it comes with a removable and cleanable SST mesh filter. See picture #2:

http://www.lesker.com/newweb/traps/o...uty.cfm?pgid=0

Others provide a copper mesh that, while it can be removed and cleaned, gets really cruddy if there is any water present. It turns green, grows a beard-all kinds of nasty things.

In my most humble opinion, I would vastly prefer a unit that can be serviced. Not just emptied.

 

An ugly catch can in Max's engine bay would be akin to a fever blister on Megan Fox's lip

 

Hahahahahahahahahaha!

Yep. But yours is getting there, buddy!

 

And don't forget the handy dandy sight guage! Dont those plastic folger's cans seal pretty tight? Tubing.. silicon sealant and your done if looks don't matter.

 

i went with the best...needswings.
seems that these cheapos need some mods to be legit.
extra fitting or internal work.
not worth the problem.
i just plugged and ran.
simple.
keep up the great work rob.

 

Lets apply a little math.. $100 price difference... maybe an hour modifying..if your real slow.. $100 bucks an hour to DIY upgrade the product.. Plus you get a free sight gauge and its cleanable if you get the easy open twist top version.

All day long..