I was just going through the 3,000 + page service manual and noticed that the manual specs. 6.1 quarts of oil with filter... WTF...

Somebody please let me know where the 8.5 qts came from and if the manual is correct or not...

Heck, I'm calling my MB engine guy...

 

I noticed that too. I can only assume that it was a typographical error when they made the manual. The Owner's manual says 8.5 quarts and the car isn't happy unless it has 8.5 quarts, so I'm going to go with 8.5 quarts.

If we were on the "inside", I'm sure we would have access to a list of errata in the manual.

 

Hey BOBS:

Don't hold it against me, I'm gutting (lightening) the car right now for a roll cage and SCCA spec. fuel cell and fire system. I just started doing it last night and began at the rear... I pulled the STYROFOAM liners in the rear and noticed that on the passenger side of the rear, next to the right wheel well, there is a motor, or controller of some sort, covered in what looks like cheap carpet padding. I pulled the padding and this looks like some sort of motor. I was looking in the service manual to see what the heck it is...

I called my shop and waiting for an answer... But, in the interim, do you have any idea what the heck it is ? I can't find it in the service manual...

Gimme a few minutes and I'll post a photo.

 

For the spoiler?

Pete

 

This is what I'm referring to... Not really sure what the heck it is... Especially since it's located adjacent to the passenger side wheel well... Could it be ABS related ?

Ah crap... the website won't take the photo attachment... I'm posting it in my gallery...

https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...sort/1/cat/500

 

HDDP, What you are looking at is the air pump for the vehicle locks. All the lock pins in the car are driven by pneumatic pressure. Pretty cool because its a whole lot simpler and lighter than electric solenoids. A word or warning, that pump module has a data connection to the Body Control Module, so you could stand a chance of making the car trip the MIL and become generally unhappy.

 

Bobs: Somehow I knew you would have the answer... The yellow lines appeared to be air lines... So, when you're saying it will trip the MIL, are you saying the Check Engine Light ? Or will it make the car generally unhappy ?

The interior of the doors, windows, locks etc are getting gutted as well. And MOTEC won't have the computer done for the car for at least another 9 months. Should I just leave the pump in place for the time being ?

It's going to take a few weeks to gut the car, cut the lower part of the dash, remove the interior accoutrements and then have the interior sand blasted and painted, but I still have some track events in the interim... Should I keep this thing wired-in ?

 

My owners manual did come with an errata. There were several yellow pages stuck in the front. One was the corrected oil quantity (8.5 qts is correct). The others that I remember were for the speeds that the spoiler operates and the operation of the heated outside mirrors.

 

Thanks: I've been putting 8.5 qts for the past two years, but this kinda threw me for a loop when I saw it in the service (not owners) manual. Not a good idea to have the service manual giving wrong info, especially for oil levels...

 

HDDP, It looks like the locking pump is pretty tightly integrated with the security system so you might be opening a can of worms if you decide to pull it. Of course, if you're gonna put a MOTEC system in then all those other boxes are kind of redundant, aren't they? That being said, I probably wouldn't mess with it until the MOTEC system is ready to go in. BTW, how are those SRT-6 brakes working out for you?


Here's a quote that comes from page 8Q-46 in the manual:

Geek mode on:

The "SKREEM" is the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module, which is located behind the instrument cluster. Also, pay close attention to the "Siren" section. Things could get a bit noisy if you pull the CLP/SSM.

VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY - SERVICE INFORMATION
DESCRIPTION
The Central Locking Pump/Security System Module (3) uses a combination of electrical wires (2) and air pressure/vacuum lines (1). The Central Locking Pump/Security System Module is located in the right rear of the luggage compartment underneath the trunk floor covering (4). It is wrapped in a sound deadening material in order to operate quietly without disturbing the vehicle operator. The Central Locking Pump/Security System Module controls the air and vacuum lines that handle the locking and unlocking
of the vehicle doors, the liftgate, and the fuel tank door.

OPERATION
VEHICLE LOCKING/UNLOCKING
To unlock, the Body Control Module is actuated by the SKREEM. The Body Control Module then sends the signal to the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module (CLP/SSM) via the Controller Area Network (CAN) Bus. The CLP/SSM pump motor starts running and supplies air pressure. The door lock actuators are pressurized. When a pressure threshold is reached in the system, the pump is switched off by an internal pressure switch. The pressure in the system is then released by the CLP/SSM and the unlocking operation is completed. The locking procedure is accomplished in a fashion opposite to the unlocking operation. However, the next time the remote control button is pressed, the CLP/SSM is also actuated by connecting it to ground by the second control lead on the SKREEM. The direction of rotation for the CLP/SSM pump motor is reversed, thereby providing the vacuum required to lock. In order to avoid unlocking the vehicle unintentionally, the vehicle is relocked by the CLP/SSM via the SKREEM. Relocking is accomplished after unlocking with the remote control when: a door is not opened within 40 seconds, the key is not inserted into the ignition lock, the interior power door lock switch is not actuated, only the liftgate is opened after unlocking. The CLP/SSM reads the signals (door contacts, trunk lid, interior power door lock switch) and actuates the power door lock actuators. The vehicle security alarm is also activated by the relocking function.

AUTOMATIC LOCKING/UNLOCKING
Upon reaching a speed of 15 km/h (9 MPH), the vehicle doors are locked automatically. The fuel tank flap remains unlocked. If, after automatic locking, the vehicle is unlocked with the interior power door lock switch, this state is maintained until a door is opened or until the ignition is switched off. Automatic locking is accomplished again only upon reaching the specified speed. The logic circuitry for this function is integrated into the CLP/SSM. The automatic locking function can be activated or deactivated with the DRB IIIT. An alternative is to use the interior power door lock switch with the ignition switched on by pressing and holding the door lock switch for more than 5 seconds in either the lock (auto locking switched on) or unlock (auto locking switched off) position. The alternative of enabling/disabling the auto locking system by using the interior power door lock switch can also be inhibited with the DRB IIIT.

EMERGENCY UNLOCKING
In the event of a vehicle collision, the doors are unlocked automatically by a crash sensor integrated into the CLP/SSM. The doors are unlocked after a delay time of 8 to 11 seconds. The emergency unlocking function interrupts all functions performed by the CLP/SSM, which are reactivated only after interrupting the ignition. The emergency unlocking function is only active when the vehicle is unlocked from the outside.

VEHICLE RELOCKING
In order to avoid unlocking the vehicle unintentionally, the vehicle is relocked by the CLP/SSM via the SKREEM. Relocking is accomplished after unlocking with the remote control when: a door is not opened within 40 seconds, the key is not inserted into the ignition lock, or the interior power door lock switch is not actuated. The CLP/SSM reads the signals (door contacts, interior power door lock switch) and actuates the power door lock actuators. The vehicle security alarm is also activated by the relocking function.

ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM
Once the anti-theft alarm system is set, the anti-theft alarm can be triggered if:
² The doors, hood, or hatch is opened
² The radio is removed (disconnected electrically)
² The ignition is jumped
² The glove box is opened
² The anti-theft tow sensor is tripped
² The alarm siren is tripped
The inputs ready for triggering an alarm are checked twice per second by the CLP/SSM. If two sequential checks of the same input indicate that the input is not in the non-actuated state, the audible alarm Siren is triggered and the front and rear lamps flash.

SIREN
The vehicle theft system alarm Siren contains a built in rechargeable battery back up and can sound if its electrical circuits are disconnected or if the vehicle battery cables are disconnected. The Siren can also sound if the electrical circuits between it and the CLP/SSM are disconnected. Once triggered, the Siren can only be silenced by unlocking the vehicle with the RF key transmitter or by unlocking the vehicle with the mechanical key.

ANTI-THEFT SWITCH/ANTI-THEFT TOW SENSOR
The Anti-Theft Tow Sensor is an inclination sensor that contains electrodes which are partially immersed in an electrically conductive liquid. If the conductive value between the electrodes changes, the sensor recognizes a change in the inclination of the vehicle. When the vehicle is parked, the value for the vehicle position is stored. If the vehicle is moved with a certain inclination in longitudinal and/or lateral direction for a certain time when the anti-theft alarm system is activated, the Anti-Theft Tow Sensor transmits an alarm signal to the CLP/SSM. In order to allow the vehicle to be towed or transported without sounding the alarm Siren, the Anti-Theft Tow Sensor can be deactivated by pressing the Anti-Theft Switch which is located in the passenger compartment on the center console in front of the shift lever.

 

Thanks BOBS: I'm going to wait till the last bit, before I pull it out... I think I'm going to use the space on the right where the pneumatic pump is now located, for the required halon tank. It looks like I can get a nice sized fire system in there...

The SRT6 brakes are 50% OK... As I mentioned, I only purchased one front (driver side) rotor, caliper etc. for a test... It bolted on fine and then I removed it. So I ordered the driver side rear a week ago. This should arrive at the end of the week. I will test that one when it arrives. If it bolts on as easily as the front, I'll purchase the entire system.

I'm trying not to screw myself, since the parts are non-returnable... At least I know that the fronts will work. Let's see if the same is true for the rears...

 

Thanks for the update. I'm watching this project with some interest because I'm thinking about doing the same thing.

 

VERY interesting! Thanks for sharing. It's good to know this kind of information. Where can I get a copy of this manual?