On my old SRT-4 I needed to install relays to the battery to ensure my master switch didn't burn out or explode.... is that needed on the xfire?

 

I just put mine in a few weeks ago plug and play no problem

 

Eh, well what kind of HID's are you working with?? My experience: I threw on 35 watt HID's with the relay... I had sooooo many problems with the damn relays and ofcourse I always had a "light out" warning. Basically it was a full year of headaches when it came to the lights, and from i can tell, it was the damn relays...

What i ended up doing was buying 55watt HID kits. I installed them without relays.. B/c of the 55watt supply, i no longer get the "light out" warning, and I havent had a single problem with the lights since the install which was about 8 months ago. People don't always appreciate the brightness of my lights, but we have projector lenses and we can focus them out of the eyes of oncoming traffic.

hope that helps!

 

This infers that 55 W kits will not give you the light out problem. I have a 35 W kit and I have no problem.
It is a problem with the older kits, they have now generally corrected the problem that caused the light out bulb to be illuminated.
My system does not use relays and neither do the newer systems.

 

Short answer: No you dont need one
Long answer: I always use relay kits with HIDS that I install in any car. The relay will make sure the stock wiring does not overheat from to much current. There are relay kits available with the resistors the cancel the bulb warning signal as well. Here are the relay harness I used on the Crossfire
HID Fuse Gold Relay Harness Wire Chrysler H11 H7 9007 on eBay!

 

I second the ideal to use relays. Reason being, the inrush current on a set of 55w hid's is pretty high. I remeber testing them out once, dont remember the value. The amperage does drop off once they warm up. However if for example, you had your highbeam switch on (both highs and lows on), and switch the lights on, the inrush current of 4 55w hid's would be pretty high. With the cost of a few relays and a bit of time wiring them up, i get the personal assurance that i wont burn the switch out.

But either way.

 

Thanks for the input, I'm with you guys on using a relay for "piece of mind"

I didn't realize there were relays out there with resistors built in, that's great!

Did you guys go straight off the battery or did you hop on a fuse box?


Also, do I still need code eliminating boxes for the HID ballasts or will the relay handle that?

 

Just one suggestion if your going down the relay path. Now i dont know if this applys to the crossfire. i dont know yet, because currently im modding my spare set of headlights, and will be installing them in the spring with 55w hids. But with my experience with installing HID's with relays on a charger/300. it would be good to pre order some of those cheap anit-flicker moduels. they are basically a capacitor across the +/- to pervent the pulsed voltage sensing from the headlight computer module from causing the relay to chatter/not work/not work very long.. Its just an added assurance as well. Ive orderd up a whole bunch of them just incase i need the for the crossfire once i tackle that project. But it works good on the LX cars when going the relay route.

 

Interesting, I didn't even think about that. Any suggestions where to find them pre built? I saw a couple DIY but I honestly would rather just pay for them to be done correctly

Also saw a couple on google that also included a code eliminator, but I already ordered some code/light out eliminators both in the relay and some module to connect to the lights themselves. (not sure if both will be needed but I figured I would cover my bases)

 

They are a dime a dozen off of ebay
2 Car Bulb HID Anti-Flicker Capacitor Error Cancellers on eBay.ca (item 250764192499 end time 26-Feb-11 02:25:32 EST)

if you are going the relay route,. you dont need any hid kits with the code elimiator built in because they will be powered directly from the 12v off the batt. The anit flicker module (just a capacitor) will go between the cars original harness and the activation side of the relay; to eleminate the funky volatge from causing the relay to chatter or do wierd stuff. But like i mentioned before, i dont know if the crossfires have some type of weird pulsed sensing voltage thingy like the LX cars do.

Once the spring comes around ill be doing a whole detailed thread regarding the HID install with relays for the hi/lo's and fogs. There are some other HID install threads on this info packed forum, so just search around.

As an FYI to anyone else wanting to go HID, and ill show a few tidbits of what im doing to my lights.....I remember in the past about someone going on being all anit-HID and saying that when you turn your high beams on, that you will have no light for a few seconds (they do take a few seconds to go to full brightness), and would be dangerous when driving... on the crossfire however when you turn your highbeams on, the lows stay on as well, people also say "because they wernt designed for HID's, they will blind other drivers", which is true for headlight housings that are not projector style (majority of cars out there). The crossfire has a properly designed projector housing, and HID's work great in these cars when properly installed and adjusted.

Ive actualy have my headlights taken apart right now, almost done tinkering with them, i tried them out with the 55w, and the cuttoff is absoluetly perfect on the lows (highbeams dont need it). I went with 4300k 55w, and tried it out in the front yard. They are soo ridiculously bright, i was laughing for 10 min after, thinking about how insane these will be. i have some pics below. I stiched the one together, i took these in the fall, and i dont have a pic with just the lows on. The glare you can see from the side of the headlights are just from the opening of the glass housing (i didnt have any of the trim peices on; those who have taken these light apart before will know what i mean). And they look a bit yellowish white. Its just the white balance on the camera going all funky. The 4300k's are nearly pure white.




Heres a pic of what the cut off of the lows look like, and the high's on the celing They were upside down.



Plus a sneek peek of what ive been doing to these lights... more to come





I can switch the blue and whites independly, and theres also another 2 mods that i will show later on

 

wow looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

I like the halo lights. I'm thinking of putting them on mine as my drl's. I've seen a few right ups on them. How did you take the lights apart? In the oven or did you cut them apart? I'm also curious if the halos were hard to hook up.

 

Very popular ebay seller among the Crossfire owners here...
Chrysler Crossfire Xenon HID Conversion Kit

And a very informative thread for the install from a reputable member and Crossfire owner
HID Install Lows and Fogs with Pictures

 

I took them apart very carefully, using an exacto knife and cutting away carefully at the silicone sealant they use. Putting these lights in a oven will not work, they dont use a temperature cured sealant/adhesive. Others have cut the lense off, but i didnt really want to go that route. I wanted easer acess incase i needed to get to the CFL's or such.

As far as wiring the halos, im going a totaly different route then many others have. Im using some automotive style slealed thru connectors that i will use to run wires to and from the housing, then using a wireless remote switching moduel to contol the whole monstrosity. Im also doing the lower eyebrow mod as well. I actualy just finished wet sanding and polishing the lenses yesterday, time to get back on the project.

 

Thanks for the info. What size were the Holo rings so when it's time to order I'll know?

 

I am just installing my HID's I am wondering if I need to put the anti flicker capacitor link when using the canbus harness? Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Go with a Morimoto HID units right off the bat, and you won't need any anti flicker units or capacitors. They regulate the wattage withing the ballast and give you a true 35/38 watts of power to the bulbs. Plus the bulbs are aligned correctly so you don't have any hotspot issues. That's what I use and have for years.

 

Ya I installed morimoto's 55w dims 6500k and 35w 6000k I believe in the fogs in order to get similar color light in both and still have higher output on the dims.
I have the canbus type. I initially put in the capacitor link and the dims would flicker so I removed the capacitor link and everything was good

 

Has anyone also experience the radio going fuzzy when you turn on your hid lights? What could be the cause?
I also experience this when I put my car in reverse but that is because my backups are led lights, canbus issues I'm sure..
But the hid light with ththe canbus harness.. What up with that??

 

More than likely poor shielding between the headunit and rest of the vehicle. My car has no such issues and I use LED inside and out in all positions including turn signals now. Plus HIDs from Morimoto in the lows. Though I have a Kenwood 955HD unit instead of the stock Infinity.