What about taking the wires that would normally be plugged into the front speed sensors and splicing them into the wires that are coming from the rears... then they'd all read the same, right?

 

Woody tried that to no avail.

 

As woody has been experimenting with the sensor inputs and how to trick them into believing that the front wheels are turning, maybe a signal generator that takes a trigger from the rear sensor, but then adds a slight delay to the pulse, so that they all aren't EXACTLY the same (in sync)?

I'm going to have to call the dyno guy I guess as they have YET to get back to me... I'm about ready to start searching for a AWD dyno in the Bay Area... if not there, I'll force myself to take a road trip to Southern California...

Good luck Jenzie!... Keep us posted!

 

Okay, so Devek never returned any of my calls and I could never reach their dyno technician.

I did however find Extreme ImPorts Racing, in San Jose, California. I called them and they state that their dyno is a AWD Mustang dyno with belt linked rollers. I plan on going there tomorrow for a baseline on my SRT6. Cost quote... $80.

I'll post the results tomorrow evening or this weekend.

 

Cool find, I can't wait to see what kind of power your car is putting to the ground!

What modifications so far have you made to your srt6?

 

None... this will be my baseline run on the dyno... then I'm probably going to do a pulley set and an upsolute ECU upgrade.

In between each, I'll do a dyno run to see what my $$$ is doing.

 

Hey... Gimme a break, I'm shooting a movie in So. Carolina till Oct. 6th... LOL Sorry, I thought you said DEREK ... LOL.

I'm interested to see if the powered AWD dyno will do the trick... Don't forget, you'll still have to pull the TC fuses.

 

Dont' worry... I've collected all the info from this thread... I'm going in armed!

 

Okay, so the numbers didn't turn out the same as the other posted SRT6 Dyno back in this thread... but, I did get several FULL pulls with no problems.

Here's the hitch. The first several pulls we only got about 150 BHP... after pulling fuses 17 + 18, we got the following. Still not full power to the rear wheels. I think, even with the fuses pulled, the ESP and ECU are cutting down the power because there is no inertia (is there an inertia sensor?)... either that or the autostick is a BIG power leech. I mean 100+ HP drop compared to the other SRT6 dyno? WTF?

Also we were going to get supercharger boost numbers but the vacuum connector Paul (the technician) was looking for was way down in the back of the engine, so I said let it go.

The torque is extremely flat across the range, that's probably where I'm feeling all the power from.

Lastly the A/F ratio seems high to me.

Please give comments on the last pull along with any information regarding the A/F ratio.

 

14.6:1 is the ideal air to fuel ratio that an oxygen sensor equipped engine is going to try to maintain. IMO your A/F # are certainly within an acceptable operating range.
A/F RATIO COMMENT
WOT= Wide Open Throttle ...instead of Waist of Time in chat rooms.

 

Jody: Firstly, I'm pleased to hear the AWD powered dyno got a full RPM run. Though the #'s seem completely goofy for a SRT6. The curves look good as the torque curve on this engine is very flat across the board.

Something is terribly wrong with your #'s though ! My partial (5,000 rpm) dyno put my N/A engine at 184.5 hp @ 4,785 rpm / 211 ft lbs tq. @ 4,350 rpm and Woody's dyno was somewhere in the 156 hp / 180 tq range.

You're showing about 100 hp down from where the SRT6 should be... Are you sure he calibrated his dyno properly ?

The AF #'s are correct for this engine in an un-modified state. They are high IMO, but normal for these new environmentally friendly engines. I'm attempting to do some ECU FMU mods to bring them down to 13.5:1 so I don't start cooking pistons on the race track...

 

Thanks for the feedback guys... I'll give Mustang Dynos a call and verify if maybe we had something set up wrong.

The dyno was set in 2-wheel mode with the rollers connected by the belt. Not sure if there was some other setting that was off or not.

I'll see if I can get Paul and Mustang dynos on the phone together or go down and call them with Paul and the car there.

It was Paul's first shot at a Crossfire although he has had C32s and SLK32s there before with no problems. So he was a bit confused by the low numbers too.

I think total he spent over an hour and half and we did about 5 different pulls. The last two had the fuses pulled (17 + 18). Even with all that he still only charged me $80. So, I will definitely work with him again.

 

Hey MMZ, not to sound like I know everything, but how about mounting a G-tec meter inside your car. Find some nice straight smooth roads, and do a couple pulls, no need to pop fuses and other misc. stuff. G-tec provides Hp and torque graphs in their software. I mentioned this to Woody once but he's hell bent on making a full dyno run by tricking the onboard computer...

From your graphs it looks like the ecu might be reverting to a limp home mode for mapping, probably why the numbers are so low.

 

You're now an official member of the CROSSFIRE DYNO FRUSTRATION CLUB ! Welcome !!!

 

dynamicS & HDDP,

No worries guys... I'll just plug away at my tech and the dyno manufacture for now. I'm supposed to have a scan tool/dyno tool coming from this place, but I have yet to receive my order.

One of the protocols they support is "Mercedes C32 AMG 2001 ISO Gasoline", so it should have no problem reading all the sensors on the crossfire. The ProScan software has a dyno mode... not quite a real dyno, but supposed to give a good estimate.

I'm in the process of following up on my order status now. So plenty of avenues to peruse.

I'll keep posting to this thread every time I know something new.

Cheers!

 

That's a good idea for appx. HP TQ, but fuel air mixture is a key to tuning this car properly and keeping it from major internal damage.

The LIMP MODE will not allow the engine to rev to redline and not allow a full 6,000 rpm rev.

I'm still thinking the electronic systems in this car are faulty compared to the M112 MB software...

I do believe we need to make a concerted effort to get answers from BOSCH on this issue.

 

You know the only other external input that's missing while doing a dyno run, is that there is no acceleration forces acting on the car... This could be effecting the cars Onboard computer somehow, by making it think that it's driving on a wet road surface while spinning it's wheels, and thus not allowing optimized mapping???

I have no idea how closely related the ECU is influenced by the lateral and longitudinal accelerometers within the T/C unit??? Just a thought.

 

How did you get a 4th or 5th gear pull from 2K rpm without a down-shift? I hope this is not a 1st gear pull.

 

According to the tech (Paul) he was locked in 2nd gear (autostick 2nd gear set). He then ran up to just under 2,000 RPM and hit the gas full to redline.
I don't believe he 'mashed' the pedal or it probably would have downshifted. I don't know.

I can try the same thing on the street 'mash' and not 'mash' and see if it downshifts or not.

I will say this... it's WILD to hear that V6 with a Super Charger hitting 6,000 RPM... WOW!

 

This is why I like doing my tuning at the race track.