Thanks Mark...will be ordering it tomorrow. The one I bought failed yesterday and had Autozone replace it. The guy did do a code check and received the code for the sensor but also circuit So I may have to take it to dealer if Bosch fails.

 

My turn with the NA. CEL came on at start up when I left work on Friday. Engine was stone cold and started right away. Stopped twice on the way home and the CEL went off. Scanned when I got home and PO335 was stored. Cleared the code and today I replaced CPS with Bosch CPS I picked up a few years back when they were $35. I have 1 spare left but with 2 cars, I just ordered another spare.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-BOSCH-0261210170-0031532728-/390639067171?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af3e72023&vxp=mtr

 

Another common problem spot is the RCM ... check the solder contact joints Relay Control Module

 

First of all, thanks guys!!!!!!! I was stopped dead in the middle of traffic.

Autozone carries the part.
Part Number: SU4740
Crankshaft Position Sensor | 2004 Mercedes Benz SLK320 6 Cylinders 3.2L SFI SOHC | AutoZone.com

There is a bracket, held on by 2 larger star bolts, blocking the CPS . I loosened the large star bolt closest to the CPS so the bracket would wiggle out of the way.
(got the female star set at Lowe's for $39.99) (use the one marked "E16")

Then I used a small 1/4" deep socket, with an extension, to get the smaller star socket out of it's hole. The CPS pulls right out, easily.

I did not want to use that small star socket bolt again, it sucks.
So I got a different bolt from Lowe's with the same threads and length.
( stainless steel M6 - 1.00 x 16 )

 

Suggest you pull that bolt out and coat very good with silicone grease or it will possibly seize up.

 

Thanks, I'm on it. I'll get the 10" socket extension too!

 

Good point, especially if this car is used in the winter with salt around, Stainless steel and aluminum do not get along well when there is an electrolyte present, The st. steel will attack the aluminum and eat the aluminum away. These materials are practically at opposite ends of the galvanic corrosion chart and that is bad news.
I would not use this bolt at all, but it's not my car. We can be assured that the current bolt is OK.

 

the block is aluminum?

 

what is the original bolt made out of ?

 

SLK manuals, see if this link works.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gw3cyp3rdpztdue/c2GqOGQn8C

 

I put the original bolt back in. Sprayed it with silicone lube just for General Purpose. Pain in the ****.

 

Looks so easy, 35 min of re positioning the ratchet, the E8 and the extension.

Best thing to do is us a small E8 and a solid extension. Get the e8 and extension in place, then connect a small ratchet. Screw will come out with sensor once its loose.

Advanced Auto Part CPS for $47.50 works just fine! Life time warranty!

 

Wait. Cps is failing. Jiggled the wire and car starts but cuts off at higher rpm. I thought about something I read..... Pins are thinner on the advanced part. I m wondering if the pins aren't making good contact to the harness or if there is in fact a short in the connector.

 

I guess you missed the 'Buy Bosch or walk home' memo.

 

Have to agree.. mines still riding right behind my seat in case the Advanced Auto ever does fail. What's it been 2 years now 180? Just realized.. it's got about 60k on it and never been plugged in.. LOL

 

so, i have seen guys that did ok with the advanced part and there is a lifetime warranty. That being said the Advanced part has thinner pins. I gobbed some di-electirc grease on the sensor pins and bent them downward so they would create more friction when i plugged it in and BAM. Car starts, runs strong at high rpms, and when I jiggle the wire, nothing happens. Im wondering if there is a way to fatten up the pins up to aid in the connection.

Im also wondering if people are replacing their connector thinking that a wire is loose there when really there is too much space and a poor connection on the advanced part.

 

I bought both. I ordered the Bosch part but I needed to get to work and bought the other one locally. It's still running okay but if it goes out I have the Bosch on standby. Bosch is a great company that has been around for over 100 years. German quality!

 

so, I bent the prongs on the advanced part and used some di-electric grease to improve contact on the sensor. That did the trick. The sensor is working fine now, the wire is not damaged or the connector. The connector has been stretched by the bosch part and is not making good, consistant contact with the advanced part. Now that I tilted the prongs, sensor works AOK.

 

Ok, read this long and high quality thread. My 2005 Xfire recently developed the "engine stopped running " problem. 1st time sitting on idle at lights and took about 12 cracks before it started. It was a day off so I took it straight to my auto shop and they have an ex Merc dealer shop guy there who said it was probably the CPS. He phoned back a day later and said they found the P0335 fault code and changed the sensor...cost of job $299. I picked it up drove about a mile away and the engine powered down on acceleration away from some lights! It started again after about 6 or 7 cranks and I drove straight back to the shop. Next day they called to say the P0335 fault code was still there and that the sensor was probably defective...no charge of course. They replaced with a new one, I picked it up and drove it home with no problem. After one day I drove the car out and the engine just died again, same symptoms!!!!! It started this time after about 20 cranks.

So I am taking it back again Monday (shop is 3 miles from me). Is it feasible the CPS replacement they installed (Mopar part he said) could have failed as well? Or are they just missing correct fault. I see some reference to Camshaft sensor have the same symptoms (but a different fault code). I also saw some comment about wiring connections. Anybody had the repeat problem like mine? Any "advice" for my shop. They havent failed me yet in 6 years of servicing my two cars.

 

Read post #217. Tell them to put a Bosch CPS in it, after all it is MB engine not Chrysler/MOPAR.