Hello all,

I just got a call from BEGi and they have the DJ's Crossfire at the Dyno but are having trouble getting it above 4,000 RPM. DJ's car is a 2004 6spd manual. What is the correct way to dyno the car? I did a search and mostly read about fuse 17 and 18 which this car does not have.

 

She only goes fast for me!

 

I know eurocharged has had some N/As that they tuned on the dyno. Maybe they would have a few pointers?

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-question.html


Post #4 and #18 are interesting. Is the dyno a AWD one? If so maybe the front rollers connected to the rear?

 

Thanks for the responses. I was hoping there was something easy for them to unplug. We really need to get the "Before" dyno before the turbo goes on. This car has no fuses 17 and 18.

 

Other threads I read suggest the only way other than having the rollers in the front move off the back rollers, is to have a tune. The threads I read through were saying even in the SRT pulling those fuses didnt do much but increase the limit from 4500 to 5800. He could try pulling the wire that hits the huge fuse in the engine bay, I dont remember what thread it was or what it was called but it did the same thing as pulling 17 and 18 but for '04's. I could take a pic if need be? It disables TC, ESP, and ABS

 

another option is to tie the wheel speed indicator signals together (run the rear wheel output to both the front and rear wheel inputs)

I could dig up the specific connections if you are interested


Chris

 

on CAB (controller antilock brake)
a) disconnect lead from left front wheel sensor at pin 46 ... jump wire from pin 37 to pin 46
b) disconnect lead from right front wheel sensor at pin 33 ... jump wire from pin 42 to pin 33

this should do it

(and left connected this way .... it would make the ESP far less invasive ... OFF HIGHWAY USE ONLY )

Chris

 

All 4 wheels have to spinning at the same speed on an 04 because the traction control cannot be completely shut down IIRC.

 

or .... the car needs to THINK that all 4 wheels are spinning ...
that was the point of my last two posts ...

 

Well if a bad wheel sensor disables the abs/esp.. unplug a front sensor at the inner wheel well? I know mine does some awesome burnouts right now.. LOL.

 

The 04's have a fuse block in front of the battery with I believe three fused connections. One is the traction control. Use an 8mm socket to disconnect.

 

There was an older thread where one front wheel was jacked up and spun by hand while dynoing. That sounds kinda dangerous.

Latemodel21, I think I read you will get an implausable signal due to different tire diameters/pulse count. I am not positive on this.

Would be sweet to have these pins on relays tied to the brake switch. ABS and traction would be restored to normal during braking.

 

Didn't read all the posts... Sorry. We are all friends here.

 

Of course we are all friends here Bryan, I hope my reply didn't convey a tone that suggested otherwise.


Chris

 

Your comment about the potential impact of differing front vs rear wheel sizes (on the kluge i suggested) is timely ... I had not considered that ... not sure if the difference would be enough to derail the ESP spoof ... but it is possible I suppose. There is of course a workaround (frequency to voltage convert the signal .... rescale that .... and then convert the new voltage to a frequency).

your second comment eludes to something that I have been toying with (in the back of my head) particularly since the Lateral accel and Yaw sensors are not "CAN'd" on the slk (as opposed to the SRT6) ... shutting off the ESP by removing the wheel speed varialtions (front to rear) and muting or disabling the yaw and lateral accel (perhaps only below a given speed) could be down the road (for slk's ).

Chris

 

Browser Warning
Browser Warning

Here's where I found the inspiration, and made the circuit board.

Then ESP saved my butt on a cloverleaf and I abandoned the idea.

I think this would work fantastic on an LSD equiped car. All the connections for the wheel speed sensors, the yaw sensor can bus line (the one Waldig cuts to turn off the Yaw Sensor), and the important brake light switch power to power a relay giving you ABS and TC/ESP when the brake pedal is depressed, are at the ABS module connector. The key is when you press the brake pedal the relays reconnect the front sensors giving back ABS.

edit: I don't know why it says "browser warning" the links are to Autospeed.

Sorry OP for the OT.

 

Aside from using electronic switching (instead of relays), I was thinking the same as you on this except I was thinking that along with the brake pedal override, a speed sensitive override might be in order (to take into account situations like your "cloverleaf" experience).
Chris

 

I rarely have ESP/BAS intervention unless I'm out of control. It used to intervene when I had wheel spin at full throttle coming out of a corner or hitting a bump big enough to spin one wheel. With the wavetrac .... I'm trying to remember one instance where it kicked in and I can't.

Getting back to the dyno problem, I'm confused. I've read about troubles on the dyno and solutions but the only time I personally had a situation, it was caused by operator error. After the first "erroneous dyno" I found a AWD dyno and used it two times spinning the front wheels. Then, in the name of curiosity, I dynoed in RWD with the fronts stationary and didn't have a problem. Yes, the dash lights up like a christmas tree but cycling the key returns the lights to normal. I've had around 10 sessions on 2 dyno's now and never have trouble.

I'd love to know the cause of the problem when it's discovered.

Les