Opinions on Crank Pulley Please!
I decided to research through google what bad crank pulleys could look like and symptoms and such. Well I would like the opinion's of people on the forum. Here are some pics and videos. Any thoughts?
At first I thought the entire pulley was "wobbling" but now I think that the (elastomer??) rubber ring is just not flush around the entire thing. When I felt it, it felt strong and.... Rubbery? lol The feel matched the look I guess is what I'm trying to say. So am I tripping out or is there really a problem?
Oh, and ignore the coolant spray everywhere... My water pump will be up for examination this weekend... I already found 1 bolt missing!
IMAG1076_zps0d0a9df6.jpg
IMAG1077_zpsdb35ff17.jpg
VIDEO0125_zps28a2ccd4.mp4 Video by sk8erjosh09 | Photobucket
VIDEO0126_zps357a5f2c.mp4 Video by sk8erjosh09 | Photobucket
At first I thought the entire pulley was "wobbling" but now I think that the (elastomer??) rubber ring is just not flush around the entire thing. When I felt it, it felt strong and.... Rubbery? lol The feel matched the look I guess is what I'm trying to say. So am I tripping out or is there really a problem?
Oh, and ignore the coolant spray everywhere... My water pump will be up for examination this weekend... I already found 1 bolt missing!
IMAG1076_zps0d0a9df6.jpg
IMAG1077_zpsdb35ff17.jpg
VIDEO0125_zps28a2ccd4.mp4 Video by sk8erjosh09 | Photobucket
VIDEO0126_zps357a5f2c.mp4 Video by sk8erjosh09 | Photobucket
In my opinion the harmonic balancer looks like it is fine. Typically when balancers start to have problems the outer ring will walk off the inner ring, which is bolted solid to the crankshaft. Yours appears to be running true and isn't wobbly like some can get with partial separation. The rubber looks slightly dry, but isn't cracking horribly like a tire that has sat out in the sun for decades. I would run it, but I would give it a good inspection after every oil change.
Just my $.02
Just my $.02
In my opinion the harmonic balancer looks like it is fine. Typically when balancers start to have problems the outer ring will walk off the inner ring, which is bolted solid to the crankshaft. Yours appears to be running true and isn't wobbly like some can get with partial separation. The rubber looks slightly dry, but isn't cracking horribly like a tire that has sat out in the sun for decades. I would run it, but I would give it a good inspection after every oil change.
Just my $.02
Just my $.02
Can I lightly tap that ring back in where it's coming out? It was hard to get a video of what looks like wobble. In person it looked a lot rougher. I could just be seeing things.
Also, if it's "not that bad but check on it" could I just replace it with the V6's? They are the same size from what I gather.
The rubber ring likely wont move as it is bonded to both of the rings. If you want to put the one from the V6 on there shouldn't be any problem as long as the diameter and mount bolt pattern is the same. They are more prone to having the outer ring spin in relation to the inner ring than anything. It won't cause any problems on these engines because you wont be using any timing marks on it to set base timing.
The rubber ring likely wont move as it is bonded to both of the rings. If you want to put the one from the V6 on there shouldn't be any problem as long as the diameter and mount bolt pattern is the same. They are more prone to having the outer ring spin in relation to the inner ring than anything. It won't cause any problems on these engines because you wont be using any timing marks on it to set base timing.
If the bolt is the same from V8 pulley to V6, can I re-use the bolt? Another thread was saying it needed to be a new bolt if you put on a pulley.
How in the hell can I keep the flywheel from moving when trying to break the sucker loose?
I appreciate all the help. Couple more questions.
If the bolt is the same from V8 pulley to V6, can I re-use the bolt? Another thread was saying it needed to be a new bolt if you put on a pulley.
How in the hell can I keep the flywheel from moving when trying to break the sucker loose?
If the bolt is the same from V8 pulley to V6, can I re-use the bolt? Another thread was saying it needed to be a new bolt if you put on a pulley.
How in the hell can I keep the flywheel from moving when trying to break the sucker loose?
BUT HURRY !!!
There's a "last one" on ebay now CHEAP :
Miller Tool 9102 Flywheel Lock 3 2L Crossfire Vehicles | eBay
There's a "last one" on ebay now CHEAP :
Miller Tool 9102 Flywheel Lock 3 2L Crossfire Vehicles | eBay
BUT HURRY !!!
There's a "last one" on ebay now CHEAP :
Miller Tool 9102 Flywheel Lock 3 2L Crossfire Vehicles | eBay
There's a "last one" on ebay now CHEAP :
Miller Tool 9102 Flywheel Lock 3 2L Crossfire Vehicles | eBay
Only if I pull the motor or pull the radiator lol. The latter being a maybe.
Do you have access to a lift or some wheel ramps to get the front of the car high enough to use a long breaker bar? There should be enough compression to allow you to yank the breaker bar sharply and quickly to break the bolt free. Might take a couple attempts, but should be feasible. Tightening will be a bit more difficult, but should not be impossible.
Duh, I forgot, you are 2 cylinders longer than normal!
Do you have access to a lift or some wheel ramps to get the front of the car high enough to use a long breaker bar? There should be enough compression to allow you to yank the breaker bar sharply and quickly to break the bolt free. Might take a couple attempts, but should be feasible. Tightening will be a bit more difficult, but should not be impossible.
Do you have access to a lift or some wheel ramps to get the front of the car high enough to use a long breaker bar? There should be enough compression to allow you to yank the breaker bar sharply and quickly to break the bolt free. Might take a couple attempts, but should be feasible. Tightening will be a bit more difficult, but should not be impossible.
If I take out the fan and shroud I could try that. With the breaker on through the top I only had ~4in of play. I didn't bother trying to yank in any direction. But I can give it a shot with everything out of the way. Thanks again for all the help!
The fan and fan shroud come out without tools, just unplug electrics, pull 2 clips at the top and gently lift it out. A short impact wrench should then fit in there and should do the job. And yes, you need a new bolt every time. It is a special stretch type when torqued, good for one use only.
If I replace it I will buy a new bolt though.
Last night I pulled the fan and belt, I thought I fixed the leaks from the gasket on the water pump so I put the belt back on and I couldn't see any wobble at all from anything. Can't really explain why, because I would have thought the belt would pull itself into alignment but I guess not?
Anyway, one thing down now on to the water pump!
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