I have a 2006 Chrysler Crossfire Roadster Covertible.It's not a SUPERCHARGE. The belt was displaced when I made a right turn leaving me without power steering.There is not damage to the belt.How can I test the belt tensioner to make sure I need a new one.Is there an easy way to remove it?There is also a hydraulic arm attached to the tensioner how do I test it and what's the correct name for that part should I need to replace it.The tensioner is secured to the block by E10 bolts.Is there any special tools for this kind of bolts or shall I use regular metric sockets.Finally,what's the difference between CROSSFIRE ROADSTER AND LIMITED?

 

My tensioner does not have the hydraulic arm so I am not sure what is involved to remove yours. You can purchase an E10 socket, not sure if you can make a metric socket work, never had to do it.

Rotate the tensiioner back and forth and see if it still has spring tension. Check that the bearing in the pulley is smooth while rotating. If so, put the belt back on and inspect it while running.

Before putting on the belt, check the operation of all the pulleys for any roughness.

 

The belt tensioner uses a 17mm hex socket on the cast in hex, do not use a Torx socket. (CLICK)
The E10 Torx socket is used on the SRT's only.

 

These belts don't come off without a reason.
You mentioned "making a right turn".
What sort of right turn ? All the way to steering lock ?
If so, you might have locked up the PS pump and caused the belt to jump off, otherwise check very carefully for any oil
on the belt and pulleys, also with the belt removed, check all the pulleys and make sure everything turns free :
alternator
water pump
PS pump
tensioner pulley
idler pulley

HINT: The fan assembly is quite easy to remove : just remove the two BIG top clips, disconnect the wiring plug and the whole thing will wiggle out without having to disconnect any hoses. You will have a TON more room to look at stuff.

 

Probably the most concise and informative post for such a complaint, ever.

 

The power steering pump keeps turning all the time and pumps oil as demanded with a release valve. If it had seized up you will hear it and the belt will burn through in a short time. The same applies when pulleys seize up. If no oil is to be seen then maybe the belt and pulleys are out of alignment, the crank pulley is coming apart and moving forward, the tensioner is too weak or the belt is too long.

If the tensioner uses E10 bolts you need E10 sockets, if you ruin the heads you will really regret it.

Roadsters come as Limited models, base models and special edition (SE) models. Likewise the coupe comes as a 2004 model, Limited models (2005 -2008)and a base model (years ?). There is also the SRT6 models (2005 - 2006), coupe and roadster. The various models come in different trim levels and that is basically the difference. Maybe someone with a more detailed knowledge will pipe up.

 

You big suck up.

 

True enough, and thanks.
However, I have had the serpentine come off my GMC due to a faulty PS pump.
As to the pulley alignment, with the fan assembly out, you can use a long straight edge on the crank pulley and see how close to alignment the other pulleys are.

 

If I wanted to just change the Tensioner pulley on a 06 Roadster limited, where do I get just the pulley? I see the tensioner available, but not the pulley, and what socket do I need to remove the pulley?
Thanks for the help,
KJN

 

E-BAY OR AMAZON IS YOUR BEST BET TO FIND YOUR PULLEY.You have TO remove the tension AND THE BELT FROM PULLEY BY LOCATING THE HEX BOSS AT THE LEFT SIDE OF TENSIONER AND ROTATING IT COUNTERCLOCKWISE WITH A 17MM SOCKET.ONCE THE BELT IS OFF ,GO TO THE CENTER OF PULLEY AND REMOVE THE TAMPER PROOF BOSS WITH A T40 BIT.

 

Needswings carries them. CLICK
Or you can go to an auto parts store and buy a generic pulley.

 

Roland 1226,
Thanks for the information..If I decide to replace the tensioner, not just the pulley. I read somewhere that there are two bolts holding the tensioner in place. One you can see plainly, the other is hard to get to, as it is underneath the pulley. Do I need to take the pulley off first, or just use the hex boss and turn it lock it in the relaxed belt position to access the second bolt? I may be wrong about the two bolts. Regardless, what size socket and would I need a specialized wrench to remove the tensioner bolts from the engine?
Again, my thanks in advance for any help,
KJN

 

HI KJN,If you are going to remove the entire assembly(pulley and tensioner) then just remove the belt with the 17mm socket counterclockwise,hold the wrench with one hand and use the other to remove the belt from the pulley;once the belt is off,then release the tensioner slowly.Locate the two TORX BOLTS the visible and invisible;use your sense of touch for the lower one;remove both with an E11 or E12 socketYou can get a set 9 E torx sockets for $10.99 at HARBORFREIGHT.It is cheaper than buying a couple of sockets and they are guaranteed for LIFE.The whole assembly should come off unless your car has a shock damper attached to the TENSIONER then, it will be three(3)bolts to remove with the sockets mentioned above.It is advisable to also replace the shock DAMPER.I just did this with my roadster crossfire and I got everything from E-Bay and AMAZON; the parts were made in Germany and they were NEW.It takes two to three days to get them via PRIORITY MAIL.