So, unexpectedly, she went through that sequence. Crank, start, die. Crank, start die. No crank. All of the warning lights were on. I disconnected the battery, she went through the same sequence.

Here is what I learned (thanks to the wisdom contained in the forum. Look for it).

There is a SKREEM Module -- Sentry Key Remote Entry Module. It reads your electronic key. This sequence is what occurs when the SKREEM Module goes bad.

The cost -- surprisingly -- is reasonable. $140 from Chrysler for a rebuilt with a $500 core charge (as of the date of this post). Also available new from "Auto Parts ASAP" (at $800, I think no core charge) and from "Factory OEM Parts of Tampa, Fla" (at $140, I assume with a core charge). They will require your VIN number and milage as part of the ordering process.

The SKREEM is a small electronic module and it is located behind the instrument cluster. It has 2 connectors attaching to 3 connections (the one on the left is a double connector). Its mercedes part number is "170 820 1826" and the book describes it as a door lock module. A chrysler alternitive number which is mentioned in the forum is "50 9954 1 AA". I will attempt to attach a photo, but I am electronically challenged. There are photos available on the forum.

Replacement is simple, once the instrument panel has been removed.

The SKREEM Module has a "learning" sequence to mate your particular key's electronic signature to the Module. Insert Key, turn to accessory, wait for a minute or so, then start. That should have been sufficient education for the Module.


I might also mention the "solder pin connections" issue with the PMC(?) module (see forum). That was my first attempt, but was not my problem. It is a Very Easy thing to do and I believe worthwhile. That module lifts out in 2 minutes, cover comes off in another 2 minutes, careful inspection of the 3 solder joints at the bottom right for fracturing of the solder takes another 2 minutes (I found 1 fracture), re-soldering takes another 3 or 4 minutes, then reassemble. A quick and pleasing preventative maintenance job.

Don

 

If it won't crank on the 3rd or 4th attempt, but does after disconnecting the battery - I guess it is the SKREEM.

If it cranks and dies and cranks and dies and cranks and dies and cranks and dies - it is the battery. I had my car do that and I had a Durango that did that.

 

Glad you got it all fixed !
BTW, that is the RCM ( or K40 ) module, not the 'PMC'

 

I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago. I replaced the batteries in my key fob, and have not had a problem since.

 

wow batteries in key fob have to be the cheapest route !!! Guess I would try that 1st too !!!!

 

Not questioning you.. just can't figure "how" since the car will start with just a key and the RFID chip glued to it..

 

My problem started when I tried using the fob to unlock the car with the fob. Nothing. I used the key to unlock the car, then opened the door followed by the car's alarm system going off (midnight in a condo parking lot). I put the key in the ignition and started the car, the alarm stopped and the engine quit right away. Started the engine again, and it shut off immediately again. Then, nothing. No starter turn at all.

After replacing the batteries in the fob, still nothing. Tried reprogramming the fob. Nothing.

Fortunately, someone in my group had a smart phone (along with a dead battery in the fob, my phone battery was dead too). We used it to connect to CrossfireForum.org, where we discovered that disconnecting the car's battery might be a good thing to try, followed by reprogramming the key fob. That worked.

 

Can anyone tell me or show me how to change the skreem module? I purchased the module preprogrammed from needs wings.

 

Update #7. Received my items back from SOS (along with a extra $300 key as an apology), installed them, and SHE FIRED RIGHT UP !!!! Just a simple misprogram. I’m happy with their services. Everybody makes mistakes, they made one, owned it, and even threw me compensation. They will be receiving a good review from me ! Thank you to everybody for all the help.

 

Thank you for taking the time and effort to post this follow-up. You are helping many others!!

 

I used this video posted by wolfstalker.
I found it very easy to follow

 

I have an 04 coupe that I love needless to say. I'm experiencing the same issue. My car is in a shop where the owners brother owns a XF he purchased from customer. They both have worked on his XF for a number of years before he bought it. They are suggesting that I take my XF to dealer to get computer reset. He says the VIN# on the computer does not match VIN# on body of car and that is a security issue. I am stressed financially and timely. Car tags expire 12/31/22. Can not leave much longer at repair shop, they will start charging me. Cant park at my townhouse parking lot because tags must be current. Used all AAA tows for the year.No dealer wants to work on car. Not Chrysler or Mercedes. Also called German repair they don't work on any car older than 07. Any suggestions, I LOVE my XF and want to keep it. Please help

Darlene

 

Contact the Mercedes Swap Shop, MSS on the Internet. They are reasonable and can help you.

 

Well, unless someone changed it, how is this possible? Yes, a mismatched VIN would cause a no-start, but that also means it was changed at some point.
I agree with the suggestion of talking to the MSS.

 

Thank you all for your help. I was able to reach James in NC and Josh in CA. Mailed everything to Josh today. So excited that someone that knows this car is working on it. You guys and ladies are soo awesome. Will post when finished and running again

 

How did it Go? How was your experience with Josh? Is the car fixed? I'm facing the same problem currently

 

We are very experience

 

Not matching vin are more along the lines for passing mot/emission test. As long as coding matches the skreem, ecu and keys,
shouldn't be a issue

 

I have a 2007 Chrysler Crossfire convertible with about 65,000 miles on it and this year there were two times I apparently had an issue with the skreem unit. Both times, which were about 5 months apart, the car cranked, seemed to begin to start, and then died 3 times in a row, and then wouldn't turn over at all. The alarm went off when I used the key in the door.

Both times, the issue was fixed by completely disconnecting the battery for one minute (not just the negative terminal). When I reconnected the battery again, the car worked normally. I didn't have the problem again until 5 months later, and I haven't had it since (about 3 months ago). Am I seeing the beginning of the end of my skreem unit, or have others had this issue occasionally without having it escalate into a total skreem unit failure?

Kara

 

It can be a dying SKREEM, but generally, SKREEMs do not die slowly.
I'd read what you are seeing as an electrical gremlin in the SKREEM where the SKREEM is becoming confused, you "reboot" it by yanking the battery cable.

THis is generally caused by:
1) Power being removed and applied to the SKREEM quickly - they don't like that. Look for loose contacts between fuse and fuse socket.
Fuses 35 and 37 in the underhood box feed the SKREEM.

2) Noisy/unstable power to the SKREEM - look for lose or corroded battery cables, a bad battery ground cable, bad jumper from chassis to block, etc. Doing James 1549's grounding mod is a GOOD idea.
His fix is here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...le-engine.html

3) Dying, aging battery. Batteries over 4 years old do not belong in the Crossfire. (The original VARTA batteries seemed to last forever, but those are the only ones that seem to be capable of that...)