Hi all so I completed the sticky ignition mod as per the directions in instruction manual. I had to grind the locking pin since the key did not turn at all. I disconnected all cables as needed and removed the suspect pin.

After reassembly the car turns on but does not start. All electronics and A/C radio, lights etc turn on in position 1, however when I turn the key to crank the engine the electronics all die out and and I can only restart the process by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it which results in the same thing.

I assumed it was the transponder so I followed the cable all the way to the SKREEM module and it appears to be plugged in and not damaged. I called a dealer and they said they would replace the whole ignition component for $1,000 and I definitely do not want to do that.

Please help, I don't know what is causing this. My best guess is the transponder does not recognize the key or vice versa and the car kills itself in an effort to prevent theft.

 

It is definitely something to do with the antenna ring, that's the only thing in the sticky key fix that you could have messed with.

 

I hate to throw money and parts at a problem but do you reckon I should maybe buy another antenna ring (transponder) as mine may be damaged internally but not visible.

 

Maybe...????


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-05-06-CHRYSLER-CROSSFIRE-KEY-TRIM-IGNITION-BEZEL-/201274566619?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2edce627db&vxp=mtr

 

A couple of things;

1) when you put the key assembly back together did you possibly disconnect the little wire connected to the ring around the key?

2) did you take the key pod apart?

3) Don't unhook the battery more than 30 times, in fact it may be 20 times, but there is a self-destruct system

Dave

 

The Key ring is plugged in on the back side and it doesn't look like it came out from the ring side.

The key appears to be fine

What happens if I do it more than 20 times? What is the self destruct?

 

"After 3 failed attempts to start you will have to unhook battery for 10-15 min. Before you can try again, you can only do that 10 times before the car ecu becomes unusable 30 no start self destruct."

The above is what I've been told. I'd try the cps it's cheap and easy to replace, if that doesn't work, I would guess the skreem, but I doubt that is it.

Dave

 

Does the car start and stop for two or three times before you have to disconnect the battery? You never say that so it appears it is just once.

You replaced the CPS what make did you use? Did you install it correctly?

The Ring in the eBay ad lacks the plug and I am not sure that a simple addition of a new plug would work.

Has your buddy who wrecked your wheels touched the car again?

 

(A) I've never heard a 10-15 minute unless your trying to do a full system reset. Just disconnect momentarily and reconnect is all I've seen.


(B) First time I've seen a 10 count posted also.


(C) Do not hit a 30 count has been repeated several times.

 

I think that is an urban myth, I am sure there are many cars still running that have had the battery disconnected many more times than that.

 

We're in the same boat there Dave.. Have yet to see posts on "it just blew up".. LOL

 

I never replaced the CPS. Maybe I'll go ahead and do that. The 320slk CPS seems to be what is recommended right? Same as XF?

I suggested the key ring in case the connection inside is bad. It does not appear damaged.

Will update this post tonight

 

 

Here's the thread that Speedy4x4 mentioned it in. I don't know if it's true or myth, I wasn't going to test it.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...onths-ago.html

Dave

 

UPDATE:

AAA came out and helped hold down the wire onto the battery tightly. Because the connection is as tight as possible but still able to slip on and off it was just determined that the negative line needs to be replaced, and that will help with the battery problems I have had in the past as well.

I have seen some with my symptoms but no solution, I hope this solves it for people in the future!

Car starts right up!!!

 

I had this problem on a car once and I saw that the lead clamp of the cable had collapsed and the ends where together rather than having a gap when clamped tight. I took the cable off, removed the screw and nut and bent the ends of the clamp so there was a gap. You have to bend the ends of the clamp rather than open up the diameter of the hole. Saves money and the cable is as good as new.