No, I have one fob (with new batteries) and one plain key (see pic). Just bought it and both keys start and locl/unlock driver's door only. Know fob is transmitting (300-320Mhz) but car is unresponsive Console switch locks and unlocks all. . Both keys start and run car. Just bought a few days ago from dealer who knows nothing and came through Georgia auction a few months ago with 119k miles. Runs great and presents very well. No luck tracing previous owner so far..
Been working on cars for a very long time & have reprogrammed several. Have an SLK320 which has same chassis and wiring. Previously had an 07 Coupe. Have 04 Owners Manual, Service Manual, and parts book. Not completely clueless.
To me it acts like the SKREEM is not there. Have not pulled dash apart yet. Scan tools do OBD things but a full scan fails with "communications failure". Two different very good Autel scanners. Also have Torque Pro.
And that is the short version.

Both start and run car. Both lock/unlock driver's door only. No remote functions work.
.

 

That second key (valet key) does have a transponder built into it, those are usually made as a clone of an existing key. Nobody knows if your car is still requiring a transponder or both keys are only useful for the blade.

 

"Somewhere" I have a key transponder reader from when I was trying to clone keys (didn't work) but have not found to tell what has a chip. Do have a round red thing (forgot name) that has a diode that blinks when you put a key in the ignition switch. Does blink in my SLK320 but not in the Crossfire.

Not all bad, does start and run fine with either key just want to know what has been done. Like to really understand how/what is supposed to work and have spares before I tear things apart. Need a few other things (accellerator is erratic, when cold: does not rev and getting a P0122). and if out want to be able to lock the hatch but most of my cars are learning experiences and the coupe does look nice.

 

You can't just copy the transponders like that. You can easily check whether the valet key contains a transponder. Wrap 5 layers of aluminum foil around the black part and try to start the Crossfire.
If it runs, you have no more Skreem and should look at the ECU.
As far as I know only Precision ECU makes an immobilizer delete. They seal the ECU afterwards so you should be able to see that.

 

Wrapped the black key in reynolds wrap (aluminum foil). Started just fine. Red ring thingie does not blink, did in other SKREEM cars. Wish I knew more of history. VIN comes back clean.

 

As written, then look at the ECU, it's in the black box near the batterie or have a look for the skreem (but that's takes more work).

 

What do you mean you can't copy transponders? There are locksmiths who copy keys that way.

 

No, they don't copy the transponder, they make new once for a other key. There are 8 keys preconfigured in the skreem key 1 + 2 where delivered wit the car so key 3 to 10 can be used for new keys with transponder.

 

I understand the car can only have 8 keys and they are preconfigured. I've seen software online and here is a locksmith that can clone keys.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/market/85232

 

That's not a cloned key, they read the key who send to them and make a new key for a other slot. Example: You send key 2, they read the key and can see it's key 2 as key 1 + 2 is shipped with the Crossfire the locksmith will make key 3. A clone would be also key 2 but you can't use two identical keys with the skreem.

 

If you read the post, he only asks for the skreem if all the keys are lost. So if you send him one key then how does he know the codes for the slots without the skreem?

 

Only had the coupe for a few days but is a real learning experience. Fuse 9 is missing but horn works with key on. Replacing does nothing and fuse is fine. Everything I am seeing points to the SCREEM being missing completely and key just being a key would explain the full scan "communications failure" but ecm and bcm are fine. Think the P0122 is something else entirely but for now just need a way to lock the car when out. At least since the locks all work from the console I know the pump and back end work.

 

Have you opened up the dash already or checked the ECU? I am betting you have an immobilizer delete option.

I am currently facing a SKREEM immobilizer failure but my symptoms are not your typical Skreem failure symptoms. My remote key fob with recently replaced batteries that had been working just fine just stopped remotely unlocking the doors. So I unlocked the door manually with the key sat down then tried to start the car and nothing. No crank whatsoever. I turned the key back off and tried to start the car again and nothing. No starter engagement, no noise, nothing just like the last time. As I am usually a little thick so of course, I tried again, this time it cranked for a second kicked and immediately died. Attempts 2-20 were nothing.

I also disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes and tried again with exactly the same result. Before anyone says RCM, yes I have a brand new Mercedes spare and I tried that Also with no luck. Now the reason I am concerned is usually when I read about SKREEM Faulures the Key Fobs will usually still work the door locks but the car just does not start. I think I may have a failure where the SKREEM is not getting power therefore I don't even have the Lock and Unlock feature. This thought is also giving me some hope that I may be able to fix my problem if I can find and correct the SKREEM power source.

Does anyone have power location information? Does anyone have any other troubleshooting thoughts? Really hoping I can get this solved without going for Reprogramming of the components or an immobilizer delete.

 

So I may have figured out my problem. A week or so ago I swapped out the case of my Key Fob and put in new batteries. I tested it by locking and unlocking the car doors without actually going out to start the car. Fast forward to a few days ago when I get into the car and the car won't start and now I am having Skreem issues. Well after much research on this forum and more specifically this thread:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...er-thread.html

I just realized that I did not move the small transponder chip into the new FOB case. I'm thinking the remote lock and unlock must have worked up until the point I tried to start the car without the transponder chip and then the repetitive start attempts without the transponder put the skreem in a lockdown mode where it won't even accept a lock or unlock signal anymore from the FOB. At least that is what I hope it is. I found my original transponder chip still inside the old case ( thank god I don't throw stuff like that away) and tomorrow I will mary the fob circuit board back to the transponder chip, reconnect the battery, and say a prayer to the xfire gods. Wish me luck be back soon.

 

Was unwilling to do much until I knew the paperwork (title, registration). Well after a month (limit in Florida) the state now recognizes the car as mine. Everything is now fixed except the BAS/ESP (hoping is a bad switch, on order) and the remote lock unlock. Car starts just fine including with a key I do not think has a chip. However if fails to start three times will quit trying. Disconnecting the battery (or the time it takes...) restores it. Is very confusing.

 

Glad to hear your getting it sorted out. I have my new to me 07 Inferno limited coupe now sorted out too. I was correct. I did not have the transponder kit in my Key and my skreem had gone into a lockdown mode shutting it all down. I had left the battery disconnected overnight, put the transponder in the key then reconnected the battery and it started right up.
So grateful for the forum and all the good people in the Crossfire community like Miami Matt who has also helped me tremendously.