Still burning oil - Desperate for help
Been having major oil burn recently, but the cars performance is still seeming to be great. I’ve replaced my valve cover gaskets and the RTV on top and have no leaks there - looks very clean! Can’t find a leak anywhere.
Oil was filled to near max on the dipstick yesterday, now after a little over 200mile drive it’s about 25% to the max now. Essentially putting oil in my engine as if I’m putting gas in my tank and i can’t figure it out.
I’m spitting codes P2098 and P0151 simultaneously(Codes cleared and same codes popped back up together).
I also replaced the old O-Ring between the engine and throttle body(Was one recommendation on the code).
Any help would be greatly appreciated... Car only has 56.5k miles and I’d love to get quadruple that out of it.
Oil was filled to near max on the dipstick yesterday, now after a little over 200mile drive it’s about 25% to the max now. Essentially putting oil in my engine as if I’m putting gas in my tank and i can’t figure it out.
I’m spitting codes P2098 and P0151 simultaneously(Codes cleared and same codes popped back up together).
I also replaced the old O-Ring between the engine and throttle body(Was one recommendation on the code).
Any help would be greatly appreciated... Car only has 56.5k miles and I’d love to get quadruple that out of it.
Inspect your spark plugs; look for black burned residue.
There is an inspection plate (it is black plastic) on the lower bell housing of the automatics. Open it and see if the rear main seal may be leaking.
There is an inspection plate (it is black plastic) on the lower bell housing of the automatics. Open it and see if the rear main seal may be leaking.
Last edited by zip439; Jun 15, 2020 at 11:31 AM.
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Tailpipe is another way of seeing if a lot of oil is being burned without having to remove a spark plug. IF it is burning that much oil, a used motor may be in its future. Good luck! 
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You said burn,, do you smell oil burning ?,, like at stop signs or is the oil just going down on the dip stick?, did you find a oil leak at the rear seal,, the front seal,,the valve covers,,or at the oil filter/pump ?
~..I wondered what that plastic cover was for....thx zip
If you remove plugs , do a compression ck . This will identify or eliminate poor rings or a cylinder/piston related problem . Remember , only remove one plug per cyl .
Another suspect would be a PCV problem however the engine does not have a PCV valve --- it operates via holes in the intake manifold covers ---- possibly you could have plugged them sealing w/ RTV . Should be able to check this removing the top cover exposing the hoses & check for free flow back thru the covers.
Here is a portion of a post addressing this subject
Good luck
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:33 AM
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Default Re: Vacuum leak, high LTFT, pcv hissing, HELP!!!
There is actually NO PVC as you are accustomed to on an American car, on this engine it is merely a couple of small holes in each valve cover that has a hose running to a point just in front of the throttle body on a "Y" connection.
The larger hose on the drivers side is the equalization vent hose that connects BEFORE the throttle body.
Check the hose going to the brake booster and the one going to the purge solenoid on the drivers fender well.
There is also a vacuum connection on the manifold itself ( not sure if front or rear ) that is not easily accessible that has caused issues with decayed hoses.
Word is that the intake manifold has to be removed to address this.
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Link to common problem fixes and documentation
Another suspect would be a PCV problem however the engine does not have a PCV valve --- it operates via holes in the intake manifold covers ---- possibly you could have plugged them sealing w/ RTV . Should be able to check this removing the top cover exposing the hoses & check for free flow back thru the covers.
Here is a portion of a post addressing this subject
Good luck
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:33 AM
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ala_xfire
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Default Re: Vacuum leak, high LTFT, pcv hissing, HELP!!!
There is actually NO PVC as you are accustomed to on an American car, on this engine it is merely a couple of small holes in each valve cover that has a hose running to a point just in front of the throttle body on a "Y" connection.
The larger hose on the drivers side is the equalization vent hose that connects BEFORE the throttle body.
Check the hose going to the brake booster and the one going to the purge solenoid on the drivers fender well.
There is also a vacuum connection on the manifold itself ( not sure if front or rear ) that is not easily accessible that has caused issues with decayed hoses.
Word is that the intake manifold has to be removed to address this.
__________________
Link to common problem fixes and documentation
Last edited by twanger; Jun 15, 2020 at 05:42 PM.
If you remove plugs , do a compression ck . This will identify or eliminate poor rings or a cylinder/piston related problem . Remember , only remove one plug per cyl .
Another suspect would be a PCV problem however the engine does not have a PCV valve --- it operates via holes in the intake manifold covers ---- possibly you could have plugged them sealing w/ RTV . Should be able to check this removing the top cover exposing the hoses & check for free flow back thru the covers.
Another suspect would be a PCV problem however the engine does not have a PCV valve --- it operates via holes in the intake manifold covers ---- possibly you could have plugged them sealing w/ RTV . Should be able to check this removing the top cover exposing the hoses & check for free flow back thru the covers.
Almost 2 months ago I posted about losing 75% of my dipstick in a 200mile drive. Did some research and came up with a JiffyLube receipt of last oil change and it said they had put 5w-30 in my car. Realized this and got it changed and refilled with some 5w-40. Dipstick showed it was right at max when refilled and I've been driving no problem since... Until yesterday. 2,000 miles later and my oil light is on and dipstick is below minimum. Very inconstant loss of oil and I can't figure it out. Installed an oil catch can not too long ago and it's barely caught anything - leading me to believe it's not PCV related. Been burning oil for over a year with this car and none of the spark plugs are fouling.
Here's the link to last thread: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ease-help.html
Would love any input on what could be happening. Desperate to figure out this problem and ensure my engine is nice and healthy.
Also those codes from last thread also led to my right cat failing, causing car to sound like a ricer and stink up the cabin.
Here's the link to last thread: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ease-help.html
Would love any input on what could be happening. Desperate to figure out this problem and ensure my engine is nice and healthy.
Also those codes from last thread also led to my right cat failing, causing car to sound like a ricer and stink up the cabin.
Last edited by BeanMan; Aug 7, 2020 at 03:41 PM. Reason: 2 threads same topic merged
Yes, always synthetic. I assume I'm burning it, I could smell it a lot when I took that 200m drive. If it was leaking I think I'd see it on my driveway - which I don't. Also when my girlfriend was moving my car I could see a good amount of smoke coming out the exhaust.
Any signs of oil in the antifreeze? Any signs of water in the oil?
Nearing 60k... Which shouldn't be high enough for a ring problem, one would think. Changed the coolant a week or so ago and it looked dirty blue, but not dark enough for oil contamination. Don't think I have water in the oil, what are the signs of that? Performance seems great, it's still under 6s in 0-60 with it being a NA.
Nearing 60k... Which shouldn't be high enough for a ring problem, one would think. Changed the coolant a week or so ago and it looked dirty blue, but not dark enough for oil contamination. Don't think I have water in the oil, what are the signs of that? Performance seems great, it's still under 6s in 0-60 with it being a NA.
My guess is the valve covers leaking and it is burning on top of the engine and dripping into the plastic cover under the engine. Check the top of the engine and drop that cover underneath and see what it looks like. Inexpensive place to start.
These motors dont really burn oil, leak oil yes. I think you have a bad valve cover oil leak. I currently have one and was loosing as much oil as you and was like I know im not burning that much oil as it would be a smoke show out the tail pipes. Turns out the driver side valve cover was leaking badly from the front where the power steering pump is and running down and under the oil pan. I didnt have any leaks because it was sticking to the bottom of the oil pan and when moving would get blowed through the underside of the car.
If I were you, I'd do a through check under the car torwards the front and side of the engine.
If I were you, I'd do a through check under the car torwards the front and side of the engine.
These motors dont really burn oil, leak oil yes. I think you have a bad valve cover oil leak. I currently have one and was loosing as much oil as you and was like I know im not burning that much oil as it would be a smoke show out the tail pipes. Turns out the driver side valve cover was leaking badly from the front where the power steering pump is and running down and under the oil pan. I didnt have any leaks because it was sticking to the bottom of the oil pan and when moving would get blowed through the underside of the car.
If I were you, I'd do a through check under the car torwards the front and side of the engine.
If I were you, I'd do a through check under the car torwards the front and side of the engine.
You really need to get that car up in the air, drop the plastic shield under the engine and take a good look from the bottom. It is not uncommon for a leak to develop near or at the rear seal and anything from above will be seen from the bottom. That catalytic converter going bad is also a piece of the puzzle.
Hello,
Here is an old trick from my hot rod days. Take your vehicle out to a highway or a road to get the car up to 60-70MPH, then take your foot off the gas and let the car coast for about 10-15 seconds, then give it a lot of gas. If you have a problem with rings or better yet, valve seals, you will get a pretty good puff or cloud of smoke. When you take your foot off the gas the engine goes into high vacuum and will collect oil in the combustion chamber.
Best of luck!
Here is an old trick from my hot rod days. Take your vehicle out to a highway or a road to get the car up to 60-70MPH, then take your foot off the gas and let the car coast for about 10-15 seconds, then give it a lot of gas. If you have a problem with rings or better yet, valve seals, you will get a pretty good puff or cloud of smoke. When you take your foot off the gas the engine goes into high vacuum and will collect oil in the combustion chamber.
Best of luck!
Yes Zeracer before cats! lol...and I think hes doing a good job of destroying a least one of them with excess oil plowing through them. One thing is for sure it wont fix itself!
safe driving all, love the site.
safe driving all, love the site.


