I was heading out this evening when the key fob stopped working on my roadster. No lock, no unlock, nothing. Figured it was the batteries, and replaced them, but the fob still didn't work. Pressing the buttons, I see the red light flash. Thinking that maybe the key needed to be reset, I used the key to manually unlock the driver side door. Immediately, the siren went off and the lights started flashing. I put the key in the ignition, pressed the lock button on the fob twice and turned the key to the on position but the alarm did not stop. Tried starting the car and it turned over, then immediately died. 3 more times and then it stopped turning over at all.

Logged on here to see what I could find and it is starting to sound like the SKREEM. Based on some other posts, I disconnected the battery, hit the break a few times to discharge any residual charge in the system, pulled fuse 9 then reconnected the battery. The lights came back on flashing again. I went through the reset button presses on the fob and turned on the ignition. This time it fired up. The fob has been working for the past 30 minutes or so.

Is this an indication that the SKREEM is failing and should be replaced? I am worried that I will be left stranded if this happens again when the car is not in my driveway. Looking to get some advice from the experts here. Is this a momentary hiccup and I will be fine for the foreseeable future? Should I look at getting a replacement SKREEM? Some other area I should be looking for a cause?

 

I don't the SKREEM can cause a momentary hiccup
When a SKREEM fails it doesn't ever work again.

 

Interesting. Any other reason why the fob would stop completely working, but then synch again only after the battery was disconnected?

 

When you disconnected the battery the anti-theft system reset and thus the lock/unlock function and starting the car went back to normal.
Have you replaced fuse #9?
With #9 out of the car the FOB will not lock/unlock the doors.
You may have a problem with water leaking into the rear trunk area effecting the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module (CLP/SSM).

 

I did not replace fuse 9, but I did check it. It is working. Once I went through the process of disconnecting the battery, pulling the fuse, reconnecting the battery, retraining the fob, and replacing the fuse; everything seems to be working just fine. I am just worried about the cause and if it happens again when I am not in my driveway.

 

As advised, check the lower hatch area right side for the module in there, for water. If there is water in it or has signs of water being in there, fix whatever is damaged. IF the module is damaged, also replace a portion of the wiring for that module since the water would have wicked up the connectors/wiring and will probably fail eventually. Check first, then follow up with what you find. Good luck!


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Not sure if this matters or not, but I have a roadster, not the hatchback. EIther way, I removed the back and right trunk trim, lifted the floor carpet flat to find a big piece of Styrofoam. Lifted the right (if you are facing the same direction as the car moving forward) half of the Styrofoam and found wires going into a foam block. There is no water in the well, or evidence that water was ever there. It all looks good and clean.

I locked and unlocked the car a few times today with the fob and took the car for a drive earlier today. So far things are working exactly as they should. I am glad everything is working again, but worried, that without a cause / correction it may happen again.

Hopefully I am attaching an image of the trunk module.

 

I'd yank the SSM/CLP out of that 'carton' and unplug at least one connector.
"
Look at the pins on both the module and the pins on the connector on the cable end. Any corrosion?
Any sign of what we always called "green grungies"? (I was a bench electronics tech for thirty years - wonderful way to live in poverty...)

 

So, the key could not get the SKREEM to tell the CLP/SSM to unlock the doors?
THEN, when you turned the key, opening the door set off the alarm? Well, the wires from the cylinder lock switch on the driver's door go to the SKREEM. (I was thinking they went to the CLP/SSM, but I was wrong. I seem to be wrong more and more as I get older.)

Looks to me like a flaky SKREEM. BUt it could also be a confused SKREEM and a power reset helped it start it's brain over - like many computers, this apparently got it out of what ever state it was in.

1) They tend to DIE not 'fail over time', but I understand your concern.
2) Perhaps. My gut feeling is yes.
3) Many of us have, Valk has a spare even tho he's never had an issue, he just does not want to need one someday and not be able to get one.
4) The 'conversation' between the SKREEM, ECU and CLP/SSM is complex. I still think it's the SKREEM, but water damage to a CLP/SSM can cause WEIRD stuff to happen.

Even if you order a spare SKREEM, I'd not install it unless I was forced to.

Also, please know that a flaky battery, corroded battery cables and like that can cause ODD issues with these cars. Perhaps the battery is going and the SKREEM got a dose of unstable voltage that sent it off into space.....

 

Thanks for your help and information. I'll see if I can take a look at those connectors.

Not 100% sure how I am going to proceed long term. My wife is leaning on the side of replacing the car. :-(

For now I am going to go under the assumption that the disconnected battery reboot was the ultimate solution. I also put a pair of pliers in the passenger compartment since you can not open the trunk of the roadster with the key. I can try the reboot if it happens again on the road.

Thanks again for the help.

 

My Ford Ranger died on me in traffic. No warning. Cost me $140 for tow and over $900 for a fuel pump/filter/regulator - more than a Crossfire would for the same and I didn't sell it.
just sayin'

 

Yeah. If nothing else, this has been good fodder for conversation. I love my car and it has been very good to me for the past 15 years since I have owned it. The only car right now that intrigues me is the Porsche Boxter and those are around 60k for a used one. Keeping the Crossfire and getting a AAA membership is a whole lot less expensive.

Honestly, the people here on the forum are the reason why I still have it and it is doing so well. I have been able to work on most items that break myself and the stuff I take to the mechanic has been fairly reasonable. Not sure I will find anything like this place for any other car. You guys are awesome.