What difference does it make if you edit your posts? The forum search algorithm is awful and the newbies love to ask the same questions over and over.

Also, do you have a pic of the item you received? Was it aftermarket or a genuine Mercedes one in a Meyle box? If it is aftermarket, I wonder if they used quality relays or the cheap ones DJ warned us about.

 

When I get time I will open it and see what relays it has. It's only to be a spare anyway.

 

FYI, and I know I’m jinxing myself, since replacing the battery and re soldiering the RCM my check engine light (P410) has remained dark for a whole week!

 

I've owned three roadsters, two have thrown a '410 code. BOTH were fixed by reflowing the solder at those famous pins on the RCM board, so I am pretty sure you fixed that.

 

Very interesting. My new RCM works, as I reported before. But I took it apart and have found interesting things about this particular item. As shown below, it is NOT what most of us have been buying.


The internal construction is different, very different. Now, the relays are still all 30 amp devices, and appear to my eye to be same or same quality as the relays we've seen before. THe board has the resistors on it and one diode, same as always.



The main board is different, same thing electrically but different physically:




Did you see the big change? The 40 amp path on the vertical board is no longer copper strips but a path on the board, kinda cheap but that's maybe why the price was $20 lower than others. SInce it's for the useless air pump, I dont care.

But there is something else: THe connector pins no longer attach to the main board, they attach to the vertical board. This appears to be an attempt to stop the solder fraction failures. Note how the pins are BIG and that they come farther thru the board and have a LOT more solder on them. Time will tell if this was effective. I don't drive the car much anymore, so if it fails in five years, it was no success.