I have not been able to reprogram my original keys after a battery replacement.
The key also does not lock the passenger door and trunk door when used.
It only operates the drivers door.
All the actuators work, as when I am in the car and press the lock button all locks work.
Can anyone help diagnose this?
Thanks.

 

THis is how it is:
1) The console lock/unlock button is wired to the BCM, the BCM tells the CLP/SSM to lock or unlock. The BCM and CLP/SSM are OK.
2) And your door lock is wired to the SKREEM, when you lock or unlock the door with the key, the wires tell the SKREEM you did that, and the SKREEM tells the BCM you did that, and the BCM tells the CLP/SSM to lock or unlock. BUt that is not working.
3) The key fob talks over RF (radio waves) to the SKREEM. The SKREEM tells the the BCM that, and it tells teh CLP/SSM to lock or unlock. But that is not working.

So the SKREEM is the item that is not working.

Pop the hood, with engine not running, pull fuse 35 and 37.
Wait five minutes.
Put fuses back in, at this time, verify that fuse 35 and 37 are both good, not blown.

Do these two things:
1) Try resyncing the key.
2) Try turning the key in the door cylinder to LOCK and UNLOCK.

If the locks dont work, AND the key won't sync, the SKREEM is the problem.
If only one of these items does not work and the other does, that is going to be 'chapter 2' of your saga. We can go from there.

 

Unforutnately did not work for either.

 

unfortunateley did not work for either.

 

I forgot to add:

If things still wont work, with key OFF, make sure you have 12 volts on both sides of fuse 35. If you do, contact Josh at: https://themercedesswapshop.com/
He's the only one I would send someone to with a bad SKREEM these days.

 

Thanks
I will check voltage tomorrow.
I have contacted him and he doesn't think its the SKREEM.
The car acknowledges the key as it starts and runs fine.
I have had the car sitting in garage since before covid.
Trying to get it up and working again to enjoy.

 

I just checked.
11 Volts

 

I see it this way:
The SKREEM has two halves, the door lock function (runs on battery power thru fuse 35) and secure start function (runs on switch power thru fuse 37). Either the "door lock" half is acting up (and Josh is wrong, which is rare), or you have two separate issues.

Those two issues are:
1) You screwed up inserting the batteries in the FOB such that: You broke the little tab/bent it so far it does not touch that contacts the TOP battery (has happened a lot before).
OR...
2) You are not syncing the key properly, so it does not sync, hence no remote door locks.
AND...
3) The door lock cylinder just does not work (I mean it's wires to the SKREEM are disconnected/the switches in the look are so corroded, they are open) so the cylinder switches don't tell the SKREEM you are locking/unlocking the door. This has happened before. If you never use the door lock cylinder, you have no way of knowing if it's been "out" for some time.

To verify the door lock cylinder, all ya gotta do is measure the voltage on the "Driver Cylinder Lock Sense (Lock)" and "Driver Cylinder Lock Sense (Unlock)" lines. You can do this in the door or at the SKREEM. Both lines should be at 5 volts or more, until you turn to "lock" or "unlock", at which time, that particular line should go to zero volts. If you NEVER see any 5 volts, the SKREEM is not outputting 5 volts and is the problem. If both stay at 5 volts even when you turn the key, the lock switches are bad/disconnected/etc.

But I'd first make sure the FOB is actually working.

I still think it's the SKREEM.

 

My vote would be battery or battery contact.

 

My money is on a two-sided issue. I'd bet the FOB battery contacts are compromised and the door lock switches are screwed up.

Josh is never wrong, if he says it's not the SKREEM, I won't argue. But I would open the harness and look for five volts on the wires to the door lock switch. NO VOLTAGE proves the SKREEM is at fault. Voltage on those wires that wont go away when you turn the lock proves the lock switches are bad, in which case the FOB contacts would also be suspect. But I realize that actually doing systematic troubleshooting is beyond what most owners or garages will do.

On another note, this is a case where having two FOBs makes things easier to troubleshoot.

 

The keys are fine.
The original spare has hardly ever been used and the batteries are new.
The one that I have always used, has new batteries and the contacts are not compromised and making contact fine.
Both keys red diod lights up when pushed.
The car recognizes that the key is correct as the car start and performs fine.
I have used the drivers side door lock/unlock before and never had an issue with it locking the passanger and trunk locks as it should.
I knwo the pumps in the doors and hatch are working as when I pressed the lock/unlock button on dashboard everything works as should.
This all came about when I had a bad/dead car battery and replaced with a new one.
I'll check voltage today.

 

Also, when I lock from inside and open the drivers door all locks unlock as they should.
Both keys will not program.
I once saw a video about programming the keys from outside the car aiming at front end?

 

Can security system or bad ground wires cause any of these issues?
This is the procedure I've tried for the key.for the key.
Resynchronization:
Insert key into ignition. Don't turn it.
Press the lock button on the switchblade remote key twice in 2 seconds.
Turn the key to ON or RUN within 30 seconds.
Take the key out. Exit vehicle and have the doors closed. Test the remote.

 

Changing the car battery should not cause a problem, but often does.

YOur re-sync procedure is fine and I have no clue what video you saw, but the procedure you are using is the right one.

The fact the car starts and runs kinda verifies that the ground to the battery, and the ground from chassis to block, are OK.

Yes, the security system IS your problem and it consists of: SKREEM, Body Control Module (BCM), Central Locking Pump/Security System Module (CLP/SSM) and we know the BCM and CLP/SSM are OK because the console button works.

I still say the SKREEM is the issue here, it's either not powered up or it partly died when you changed the battery. I'm not saying the SKREEM is DEAD completely, I am saying the "secure start" portion is fine but the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) function is impaired. I don't like disagreeing with Josh, but this time I do.

 

Does Josh provide a new SKREEM?

 

Is there a way to lock the passenger and trunk from inside without them unlocking automatically when you open drivers side door?

 

No, he generally fixes them and/or mods the ECU to not need the SKREEM.
I do not believe there is any such option in the CLP/SSM. You'd think there would be, given the obvious security concerns in "questionable" areas.
There IS a way to program the SKREEM such that ONE press of the FOB unlocks ONLY the driver's door and TWO presses unlock everything. But that is a function of the SKREEM, the auto unlock is a function of the CLP/SSM.