Hi all - hoping you guys can help



I have a 2006 Crossfire with 130k miles. I use it to make local deliveries.



It breaks down about every 4 hours of use. Engine chokes out. After around 20 mins it will start again. It seems that topping the fuel tank up to full after breaking down helps. But it is breaking down with various levels of fuel on the tank.



I have replaced:



Fuel pump and filter

Relay control module

Crank position sensor

Battery and alternator



There are no fault codes being generated.



I suspect a sensor somewhere is overheating - any ideas what it may be?

 

Hi, sorry to hear about your problem. It sounds like you may be replacing stuff until you find the problem, or the fault becomes permanent. May be the next sensors to investigate/replace are the camshaft sensor, or the map sensor. Did you check your air filters to see if they weren't clogged (not sure they would lead to your symptoms but may as well check). I once had a bad short that would not only cause the battery to drain overnight, but the car would stall intermittently (turned out to be water in the truck covering the CLP module).
Good Luck, keep us informed.
-Jerry

 

ONLY a Bosch crank position center will work correctly in the Crossfire. If you bought a generic auto parts store CPS it very well could be your problem.
You should also try disconnecting the electrical connection at the purge valve solenoid. It may throw a code, but see if it stops the stall. Driving with it disconnected will not harm the car for a few days of testing.

 

Wait a minute.
FIRST:
Was this the symptom from the start or did the symptom/behaviour of the car change after changing all those parts? THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT, if the symptoms changed, then one of the parts probalby fixed it but another of the parts was cause of a new issue. FOR EXAMPLE: If you used a generic crank sensor, say an Autozone crank sensor, no wonder the car is acting up.

In any event, here is an idea - next time it does this, have a cheap fuel pressure test kit available. Once the car dies, jump out and connect the test kit to the end of the fuel rail and have the engine hood up. THen:

1) Open driver's door, turn key to ON.
2) RUN back to the test gauge, you should see 58psi +/- 4psi.
3) The pump only runs a few seconds, once it stops, the pressure will die off pretty quick so during step 2) MOVE FAST.

If you do not have 58psi, you bought a bad pump or a bad filter/regulator or your RCM is not feeding power to the pump OR (and here is the biggie) you have a problem with the fuel "pickup" in the tank. We have seen this before.

If you DO have 58PSI, you can go on with other stuff like intake/MAF or ignition (cam or crank sensor).

 

Second the CPS that Zip suggested. If it wasn't a Bosch, you'll probably have problems as the connector is different and many times the connection isn't 100%. Hope you figure it out!


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