Received the new Launch VII+V2.0 code reader Tuesday. Finally got to plug it into the car Wed. evening and though it would not scan Chrysler Crossfire, as suggested in some cases, it would scan using the R 170 /SLK 320 .It found four codes in the antilock and airbag modules. they included c1012 ,terminal 87 overvoltage, c1140, streering angle sensor, c1141, Pressure sensor, c1202, fault can be ignored,??
So, after clearing the codes, I took the car for a drive and found that even after steering wheel reset, the BAS light would not go out. But after reaching highway speed, the spoiler did automatically deploy and then later retract correctly. So, I am going to clean the brake pressure sensor contacts and give it another shot at turning the light off. But I will likely have to order an new sensor, seems that can be a solution to the light , in what I have read.
For $107, shipped from an EBay supplier, I would say the scanner is worth the money. Wish me luck on moving slowly forward toward outing that light!

 

Keep us posted.

 

Went back out to the crossfire this afternoon to seek out the Brake pressure sensor. So in Mercedes style, I didn't just find one , but perhaps a second one that looks just like the first one. So would it be normal to ask knowing people how I should know which one to try replacing? I did clean the electrical connectors on both, but light still only stays out for 15/20 seconds. So I went back into the house garage to read the codes on the free Crossfire we have had for about 4 years. That car has the same BAS light on and we have driven the car several thousand miles with that light glaring away. Well it has the same brake sensor light and code as the current Graphite car I am working away at. So. I cleaned those connections on BOTH sensors to no avail as well. Any guidance out there or specific article I may have missed on this problem. Thanks for looking.

 

I'm just spitting in the wind here, but how old is the brake fluid?
It will brake down over time and absorb moisture causing it to become weaker. Just a thought, I don't know if it will help or not.

 

If you're still dealing with the BAS/ESP light replace your yaw sensor its inside the middle console I grabbed one from another junk yard car, did the reset and the light went out! good luck awesome purchase!

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. This is becoming frustrating because, as much as I have been reading on this C1141 code, I still can not find definitive information on exactly what sensor should be changed on the Master. Guess I will just do one, see what happens, then do the second one. I did order two, but can't even verify if both are the same sensor. on the master. Though they do look alike, but I cannot verify the numbers without removing them. Anyway, I'll let you all know how things go. So far I have not found anything pertinent about this in my 2004 Factory manual , either. But, I could have missed it.

 

Boy, been a long time since I updated this thread! So, I did remove one of the two brake pressure sensors on the Master cylinder and of course it didn't solve the Bas dash light problem. Then I removed the second one located under the front of the master next to the master support bracket, and wow, that one was the defective sensor. Working perfectly now.
I bought a used cigarette lighter assembly and was able to remove and replace it without disassembling any of the front dash. All is well there now, too.
Next, I removed the leaking valve cover breather covers and reset them with RTV silicone and no more oil leaks. Glad to get rid of that mess.
And a problem I had not encountered with a Crossfire before decided to challenge me this early spring. Went outside to do some work and noticed the driving lights were shinning brightly even though I had not been near the car for several days. What the heck. I pulled the fuse and then started to research what that cause could be. Found out the electro pneumatic pump and associated wiring can get shorted out if moisture is accumulating in the trunk. That can cause the driving lights to turn on and not go off again. Since it rains for about six months a year here in northwest Oregon, I decided to investigate. Once a person gets all the hatch area plastic coverings out of the way, the foam inserts that cover and quiet the pump assembly can be removed to access the lower trunk area. I then discovered an inch or so of Oregon rainwater in the trunk area. Removed the plug in the floor of the trunk, removed the spongy foam, encasing the pump assembly only to find the foam had absorbed more rainwater and somehow shorted the driving light circuit. Then discovered the rubber gasket around the gas filler had been letting water drip into the trunk. Also removed and resealed both tail light assemblies since water had been getting in there as well. Dried out the sponge rubber covering that covers the pump assembly. Let the hatch area dry for about ten days and reinstalled the fuse to the circuit and behold no more phantom driving light problem. All working well there. But before reassembling the trunk area, I wrapped the pump and the stupid idea sponge rubber covering it, with poly plastic to prevent any water drips from saturating the foam and shorting the pumps wiring and associated modules. Not sure why, even twenty years ago, it was thought that an electro pneumatic pump makes a good way to lock and unlock your car! And help turn on the lights while you lock the car! Sorry for the rant.
The exterior door handles and windshield moldings were showing serious degradation after twenty years of the car mostly being parked outside. So, I bought some Duplicolor Silver Metallic spray paint "PS2 Chrysler" color which is a perfect match for the original silver on these cars. Last week I sanded the door handles, in place, masked them of, sprayed them Silver Metallic and clear coated them and they looked supper. So, just today, I sanded the window trim, masked everything with care, and primed, sprayed , and clear coated the windshield trim pieces. Turned out really good. I was worried about doing them in place, but did not want to break the trim while removing the pieces. Taking plenty of time to mask the area made the effort worthwhile. Really happy with the finished look.
I still have to remove the front bumper/facia and get a better fit to the driver side interface between the bumper and driver side fender. Then will need to repaint the bumper before reinstalling.
I have found the heated seats only work on the passenger seat back. Other three elements likely have broken wires.
That pretty much sums up the car upgrade/repair process since I bought it just about a year ago. Anybody need a refreshed Crossfire? I''m still not liking the "granny" first gear in the transmission. Maybe replace this one with and SRT6. Thanks for looking.

 

I'm glad that you've resolved most of your issues. However, I would advise replacing the central locking pump. Once it's been wet it will corrode and cause trouble in the future.

 

Rather than leaving people hanging, I thought I should make a final update on this Crossfire I have been refurbishing. I had most things working correctly but had still been contemplating and dreading the the removal of the mostly repaired bumper cover/facia which did not mate well to the drivers fender. Well, one evening a few weeks ago, I was browsing Marketplace. And, I came upon a very nice bumper cover in very good condition. I had searched online for a decent one, but they were quite expensive, especially when you would add the freight cost. The part looked good in the pictures, and was priced right. $100 and it was Graphite in color, so no painting. Who would have thought that could happen after a year of ownership and repair. Called the seller and made a date to look at the bumper cover. It was better than expected. It was however off and SRT6 that he had owned. The car had been rear ended and totaled. So before the total was taken away, he removed the facia and installed an old ugly one that he had on hand. Now out of Crossfire ownership, he was selling off the p[arts he had kept. Also bought a set of original wheels in good shape for another $100 and a set of new front fender silver "strakes" for another $20.
After getting the bumper cover installed and detailing the car I drove it to my semi retired job and put a "for sale" sign in the window. Sure enough a few hours later a couple who have been customers for many years came into the store. Wanted to talk to me about the car, since she had wanted one since they were new, but life had always gotten in the way. They were about to experience their 50th wedding anniversary and she wanted it for her present! After explaining the possible pitfalls of owning a 20 year old Crossfire, they bought it anyway. I included the new car cover and a trickle charger and hopefully convinced them to keep it garaged. So that is the end of the story. Now, do I need to find an SRT6? And thanks for looking.