Had My 2005 convertible stored under cover for a while, changed out battery with new, drove with top up, spoiler engaged at 62mph, after parking, spoiler would not go down, top would not go down, no indicator lights on either switch. All fuses are fine, did the manual reset on the top, checked bcm and tcm, unplugged and replugged all connectors, checked for wet trunk and pump. The top down switch will work to roll down windows with the d ring latched but with no indicator lights. Can't find anything on any forum regarding this problem. Any help out there?

 

How long is awhile and under what kind of cover? How many miles. We need a bit more info.

 

Under a carport, car has 65,000 miles.

 

I searched the forum and found this and many other threads.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html

Hopefully this helps.

 

Thank you for the link, there's a lot of great information in the threads, I had not found these threads by searching the sight with my specific problem. Unfortunately I still haven't found anything relating to no power to the console switches for top down and spoiler retract beyond checking fuses., seems something is breaking the power connection, just don't know what and where to go from the fuses. Again, I get no lights on either console switch.

 

The only other thing I can suggest is to test the wires at the switches for power. The wiring diagrams are located in the service manual.
The manual should also show how to access the switches. There also you tube vids on how to take apart the console to get access to the switches. (It sounds worse than it is).

You can download the 2005 service manual here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

 

Thank you sir, I appreciate the response and the info.

 

Site search does not work. Go to google, type in "Chrysler Crossfire......" and add your terms (top won't work, gas light on, etc.) and look in the google responses for a clump of results from Crossfireforum.org.
THAT is how you search here!

You are making an incorrect assumption. The 'power' to the switches is provided by the top control module (top switch) and the Body control module (spoiler/wing switch). There is no power problem here.

Top operation is performed by the POwer Top Control Module (PTCM), that module interacts with the CLP/SSM and BCM to operate the top
Spoiler operation is all done by the Body Control Module (BCM) which gets information from the PTCM, CLP/SSM and Brake Controller to determine when it is permissible to move the top.

Chasing "power problems" is why dealers and garages cant fix these items. There is an interactive handshake between all of these items that determines when the spoiler and top can be operated.

Now, I said this is not a power problem, it CAN be, say if the BCM is not fully powered, (the BCM has four power sources, and has four "mini-modules" in it). But you can't determine this easily from measuring the bias voltage on the switches. YOu can have bias on the switch and still not have the BCM fully powered.

There are logical tests you can do:

1) Pop the top away from the windshield frame, does the top switch light come on? If you drive away, do you get the warning beep?
2) When you turn the D handle, do the windows go down anytime the engine is running?

If either answer is "no" you must STOP RIGHT THERE and fix things so you get both statements to be true. Do not go any farther until you accomplish that.
If both statements are true, I'f feel comfortable that the BCM is fully powered.

If the wing goes up at 60 or so, the brake controller is talking to the BCM, that's a pretty good sign.

Describe exactly how you "checked for a wet pump" (Locking pump not power top pump). Did you disconnectd EVERY connnector on the CLP/SSM? DId you look closely at the pins (both male and female) on every connector? Was there ANY dampness in the insulation package?

Have you taken the lid off the big box next to the battery and checked for rodent damage?
Consider pulling up the carpet on the passenger's side and looking for rodent damage in the wiring under the bulkhead that covers the audio amp/TCM.

IF you find any rodent damage, tow the car to a bad part of town, leave the keys in it, and let someone steal it. File an insurance claim and go find another Crossfire.

 

Thank you for all that information it is very helpful, I get no lights what soever on either top down or spoiler down switch, gone over wiring as much as I can get too looking for rodent damage. As stated, with d ring locked at windshield, Pressing top down switch will drop both windows, but not if I disengage the d ring. Again, no lights, no beeps. No indication of water intrusion at either side of trunk, pump,switches etc. I have not tested each switch for power, was hoping for a place to start tracing where the potential break of power is.