First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2025
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
My first Crossfire meaningful drive was today, and it led to drama.
My sister's husband died a year ago, he owned a 2005 black (base, I think) Crossfire 6 speed manual for 18 months prior to his death.
The car sat for 6+ months. While settling the estate (sister to pay off and acquire the Crossfire), In fall 2024 I installed a new battery, checked the fluids, tire pressures etc, exercised the controls and accessories etc. The car was driven up and down the driveway a couple times and parked in garage for winter with battery minder (battery disconnected) waiting for first dry reasonable temp spring day. That day was today.
Today I checked fluids/pressure again, connected the battery, it started right away and we began to drive around the neighborhood to get acclimated to a clutch again. I was driving, sister was shotgun. We circled about 8 blocks and when I got to a stop sign, I stalled it by being too slow to press the clutch in.
It would not restart!
The fuel pump pumped, I could hear a relay click but the starter would not engage or crank the engine. The windows rolled down, but would not roll up. The seats moved both back and forth. The locks did lock both lock and unlock. The spoiler had previously been manually deployed but now would not move. The headlights, hazard lights and turn signals all worked and were all full brightness. All the normal fault lights that come on with in "on" or "accessory" position and engine off also lit up ok. Repeatedly trying to start the car again proved the battery was not the issue as the accessories kept working including the headlights. One mistake I made was I forgot to switch off the headlights after stalling so I couldn't understand why the bloody thing was beeping at me if I opened my door but not the passenger door. Doh! But I was still baffled why would the seats work but not the windows and this only after an engine stall. And of course in my frustration I was checking unnecessary switches such as the anti tow feature wondering just what all is a part of the interlock system. Some symptoms pointed to a battery and some pointed nowhere. I called for a tow and was told a 90 minute service wait. I had checked the battery connections twice already (tight and clean) and after waiting 60 minutes my sister started reading the owners manual. She got to the part about fuses and I thought what the hell I might as well look at the main fuse compartment box under the hood. When I unlocked that box and looked inside, holy crap does that look messy! Numerous wire harnesses laid over the top of the fuses and engine control module. I've owned six cars of different makes and none had factory rats nest on tope of the fuse blocks, always beside or underneath it.
Just for grins, I pushed down on each connector (did not unseat/reseat them), closed the box, said a prayer, hopped behind the wheel, turned key to on, heard the fuel pump and turned it to start. It started immediately! All because I sort of jiggled some wires. And the only instigating event was stalling the engine. I cancelled the tow, drove around her block and parked it back in her driveway. We went inside and had some cold beverages to calm down. I then restarted it a few times and then turned it around 180 to park in the garage for a couple weeks till I next can look at it.
Presumably I should actually reseat those connectors, confirm the use of dielectric grease and plan on checking/repairing or replacing the relay control module. I am a former ham radio operator so very comfortable with basic electrical troubleshooting and have good soldering skills. We waited months for our first driving adventure with this car. Adventure we got but not the kind we wanted.
My sister's husband died a year ago, he owned a 2005 black (base, I think) Crossfire 6 speed manual for 18 months prior to his death.
The car sat for 6+ months. While settling the estate (sister to pay off and acquire the Crossfire), In fall 2024 I installed a new battery, checked the fluids, tire pressures etc, exercised the controls and accessories etc. The car was driven up and down the driveway a couple times and parked in garage for winter with battery minder (battery disconnected) waiting for first dry reasonable temp spring day. That day was today.
Today I checked fluids/pressure again, connected the battery, it started right away and we began to drive around the neighborhood to get acclimated to a clutch again. I was driving, sister was shotgun. We circled about 8 blocks and when I got to a stop sign, I stalled it by being too slow to press the clutch in.
It would not restart!
The fuel pump pumped, I could hear a relay click but the starter would not engage or crank the engine. The windows rolled down, but would not roll up. The seats moved both back and forth. The locks did lock both lock and unlock. The spoiler had previously been manually deployed but now would not move. The headlights, hazard lights and turn signals all worked and were all full brightness. All the normal fault lights that come on with in "on" or "accessory" position and engine off also lit up ok. Repeatedly trying to start the car again proved the battery was not the issue as the accessories kept working including the headlights. One mistake I made was I forgot to switch off the headlights after stalling so I couldn't understand why the bloody thing was beeping at me if I opened my door but not the passenger door. Doh! But I was still baffled why would the seats work but not the windows and this only after an engine stall. And of course in my frustration I was checking unnecessary switches such as the anti tow feature wondering just what all is a part of the interlock system. Some symptoms pointed to a battery and some pointed nowhere. I called for a tow and was told a 90 minute service wait. I had checked the battery connections twice already (tight and clean) and after waiting 60 minutes my sister started reading the owners manual. She got to the part about fuses and I thought what the hell I might as well look at the main fuse compartment box under the hood. When I unlocked that box and looked inside, holy crap does that look messy! Numerous wire harnesses laid over the top of the fuses and engine control module. I've owned six cars of different makes and none had factory rats nest on tope of the fuse blocks, always beside or underneath it.
Just for grins, I pushed down on each connector (did not unseat/reseat them), closed the box, said a prayer, hopped behind the wheel, turned key to on, heard the fuel pump and turned it to start. It started immediately! All because I sort of jiggled some wires. And the only instigating event was stalling the engine. I cancelled the tow, drove around her block and parked it back in her driveway. We went inside and had some cold beverages to calm down. I then restarted it a few times and then turned it around 180 to park in the garage for a couple weeks till I next can look at it.
Presumably I should actually reseat those connectors, confirm the use of dielectric grease and plan on checking/repairing or replacing the relay control module. I am a former ham radio operator so very comfortable with basic electrical troubleshooting and have good soldering skills. We waited months for our first driving adventure with this car. Adventure we got but not the kind we wanted.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 3,180
Likes: 1,726
From: New Jersey
Re: First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
My first Crossfire meaningful drive was today, and it led to drama.
My sister's husband died a year ago, he owned a 2005 black (base, I think) Crossfire 6 speed manual for 18 months prior to his death.
The car sat for 6+ months. While settling the estate (sister to pay off and acquire the Crossfire), In fall 2024 I installed a new battery, checked the fluids, tire pressures etc, exercised the controls and accessories etc. The car was driven up and down the driveway a couple times and parked in garage for winter with battery minder (battery disconnected) waiting for first dry reasonable temp spring day. That day was today.
Today I checked fluids/pressure again, connected the battery, it started right away and we began to drive around the neighborhood to get acclimated to a clutch again. I was driving, sister was shotgun. We circled about 8 blocks and when I got to a stop sign, I stalled it by being too slow to press the clutch in.
It would not restart!
The fuel pump pumped, I could hear a relay click but the starter would not engage or crank the engine. The windows rolled down, but would not roll up. The seats moved both back and forth. The locks did lock both lock and unlock. The spoiler had previously been manually deployed but now would not move. The headlights, hazard lights and turn signals all worked and were all full brightness. All the normal fault lights that come on with in "on" or "accessory" position and engine off also lit up ok. Repeatedly trying to start the car again proved the battery was not the issue as the accessories kept working including the headlights. One mistake I made was I forgot to switch off the headlights after stalling so I couldn't understand why the bloody thing was beeping at me if I opened my door but not the passenger door. Doh! But I was still baffled why would the seats work but not the windows and this only after an engine stall. And of course in my frustration I was checking unnecessary switches such as the anti tow feature wondering just what all is a part of the interlock system. Some symptoms pointed to a battery and some pointed nowhere. I called for a tow and was told a 90 minute service wait. I had checked the battery connections twice already (tight and clean) and after waiting 60 minutes my sister started reading the owners manual. She got to the part about fuses and I thought what the hell I might as well look at the main fuse compartment box under the hood. When I unlocked that box and looked inside, holy crap does that look messy! Numerous wire harnesses laid over the top of the fuses and engine control module. I've owned six cars of different makes and none had factory rats nest on tope of the fuse blocks, always beside or underneath it.
Just for grins, I pushed down on each connector (did not unseat/reseat them), closed the box, said a prayer, hopped behind the wheel, turned key to on, heard the fuel pump and turned it to start. It started immediately! All because I sort of jiggled some wires. And the only instigating event was stalling the engine. I cancelled the tow, drove around her block and parked it back in her driveway. We went inside and had some cold beverages to calm down. I then restarted it a few times and then turned it around 180 to park in the garage for a couple weeks till I next can look at it.
Presumably I should actually reseat those connectors, confirm the use of dielectric grease and plan on checking/repairing or replacing the relay control module. I am a former ham radio operator so very comfortable with basic electrical troubleshooting and have good soldering skills. We waited months for our first driving adventure with this car. Adventure we got but not the kind we wanted.
My sister's husband died a year ago, he owned a 2005 black (base, I think) Crossfire 6 speed manual for 18 months prior to his death.
The car sat for 6+ months. While settling the estate (sister to pay off and acquire the Crossfire), In fall 2024 I installed a new battery, checked the fluids, tire pressures etc, exercised the controls and accessories etc. The car was driven up and down the driveway a couple times and parked in garage for winter with battery minder (battery disconnected) waiting for first dry reasonable temp spring day. That day was today.
Today I checked fluids/pressure again, connected the battery, it started right away and we began to drive around the neighborhood to get acclimated to a clutch again. I was driving, sister was shotgun. We circled about 8 blocks and when I got to a stop sign, I stalled it by being too slow to press the clutch in.
It would not restart!
The fuel pump pumped, I could hear a relay click but the starter would not engage or crank the engine. The windows rolled down, but would not roll up. The seats moved both back and forth. The locks did lock both lock and unlock. The spoiler had previously been manually deployed but now would not move. The headlights, hazard lights and turn signals all worked and were all full brightness. All the normal fault lights that come on with in "on" or "accessory" position and engine off also lit up ok. Repeatedly trying to start the car again proved the battery was not the issue as the accessories kept working including the headlights. One mistake I made was I forgot to switch off the headlights after stalling so I couldn't understand why the bloody thing was beeping at me if I opened my door but not the passenger door. Doh! But I was still baffled why would the seats work but not the windows and this only after an engine stall. And of course in my frustration I was checking unnecessary switches such as the anti tow feature wondering just what all is a part of the interlock system. Some symptoms pointed to a battery and some pointed nowhere. I called for a tow and was told a 90 minute service wait. I had checked the battery connections twice already (tight and clean) and after waiting 60 minutes my sister started reading the owners manual. She got to the part about fuses and I thought what the hell I might as well look at the main fuse compartment box under the hood. When I unlocked that box and looked inside, holy crap does that look messy! Numerous wire harnesses laid over the top of the fuses and engine control module. I've owned six cars of different makes and none had factory rats nest on tope of the fuse blocks, always beside or underneath it.
Just for grins, I pushed down on each connector (did not unseat/reseat them), closed the box, said a prayer, hopped behind the wheel, turned key to on, heard the fuel pump and turned it to start. It started immediately! All because I sort of jiggled some wires. And the only instigating event was stalling the engine. I cancelled the tow, drove around her block and parked it back in her driveway. We went inside and had some cold beverages to calm down. I then restarted it a few times and then turned it around 180 to park in the garage for a couple weeks till I next can look at it.
Presumably I should actually reseat those connectors, confirm the use of dielectric grease and plan on checking/repairing or replacing the relay control module. I am a former ham radio operator so very comfortable with basic electrical troubleshooting and have good soldering skills. We waited months for our first driving adventure with this car. Adventure we got but not the kind we wanted.
There are two electrical boxes on the Crossfire.
Looking at the engine from the drivers seat, The fuse box with all of the fuses would be on the left of the engine. It should be neat and contain only fuses.
The box on the right of the engine is the electronics box and contains the RCM. It does look like a rat's nest when you open it.
My advice would be to buy a new RCM and send your original to @tighed1 to be refurbished. He rebuilds them better than new and your horn will work without the key in the ignition when he's done with it.
You should always carry a spare RCM, a spare crankshaft position sensor (BOSCH only) and a spare camshaft sensor (Bosch as well).
Here's a link to how to replace the RCM
LINK - RCM replacement
If you got the first page of that thread, you can find a bunch of links to the "How to's" that I've done.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,714
Likes: 453
From: Indialantic Fl./blairsville Ga
Re: First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
You may want to replace the crank and cam sensors AND BUT FIRST get a new RCM
send your old one to https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...s/tighed1.html for repairs
there have many Master electricians on here that say they can solder the rcm but it is not just the soldering
as tighed1 has a test stand to check every solder in it along with the relays,, do your self a favor,
send it ,then get Bosch sensors 4 of them install cam and crank ,,put the other two along with the rcm
when u get it back in the trunk as 90% of crossfire owners have these items in the trunk, the new RCM will
fail and wherever you u can be back on the road within minutes jim
send your old one to https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...s/tighed1.html for repairs
there have many Master electricians on here that say they can solder the rcm but it is not just the soldering
as tighed1 has a test stand to check every solder in it along with the relays,, do your self a favor,
send it ,then get Bosch sensors 4 of them install cam and crank ,,put the other two along with the rcm
when u get it back in the trunk as 90% of crossfire owners have these items in the trunk, the new RCM will
fail and wherever you u can be back on the road within minutes jim
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,741
Likes: 98
From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
Re: First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
[img alt="MnHamCross's Avatar"]data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23596de0' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>M</text></svg>[/img]
MnHamCross Email me at tighed1@hotmail.com for the details on getting the relay control module refurbished.
MnHamCross Email me at tighed1@hotmail.com for the details on getting the relay control module refurbished.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2025
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
Re: First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
Thanks for clarification on electronics box vs fuse box. And for reading my recital of the drive.
Once I pull the RCM and do an inspection I will make a decision as to repair myself or send it out. I am thinking it wise to have a spare in the vehicle as well. I also need to read old threads to educate myself about the cam and crank sensors. I know what they are and they do but I am confused about a reference to Bosch only.
Once I pull the RCM and do an inspection I will make a decision as to repair myself or send it out. I am thinking it wise to have a spare in the vehicle as well. I also need to read old threads to educate myself about the cam and crank sensors. I know what they are and they do but I am confused about a reference to Bosch only.
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 234
Likes: 106
From: Escondido, Ca
Re: First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
One other thought is that, there is an interlock on the clutch and I believe on the brake pedal (not sure about the brake pedal in a manual since I never try to start my car without my foot on the brake pedal). Sometimes those simple switches on the pedals go bad.
-Jerry
-Jerry
Last edited by red_2005_convertible; Apr 29, 2025 at 08:49 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,636
Likes: 776
From: Orange County CA.
Re: First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
Non Bosch Sensos do not work most of the time. If it is worn relays in the RCM, it is cheaper to send it to DJ for repair.
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Joined: May 2023
Posts: 3,180
Likes: 1,726
From: New Jersey
Re: First drive, move 8 blocks, stall won't restart
Thanks for clarification on electronics box vs fuse box. And for reading my recital of the drive.
Once I pull the RCM and do an inspection I will make a decision as to repair myself or send it out. I am thinking it wise to have a spare in the vehicle as well. I also need to read old threads to educate myself about the cam and crank sensors. I know what they are and they do but I am confused about a reference to Bosch only.
Once I pull the RCM and do an inspection I will make a decision as to repair myself or send it out. I am thinking it wise to have a spare in the vehicle as well. I also need to read old threads to educate myself about the cam and crank sensors. I know what they are and they do but I am confused about a reference to Bosch only.
Every time I do anything to my car I make a post about it. Then I provide a links to those posts at the bottom of the first page.
Here is the specific link to the crankshaft position sensor: LINK - CPS replacement
Hopefully those links will be helpful.
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