So we got a 05 convertible and it’s has some issues. The one I’m currently stuck on and can’t figure out is the fuel pump not working. The car was parked for roughly 8-12m on the back burner and at the time the fuel pump worked but a hose had a leak so when I would crank it, the pump would spray gas everywhere from the hole. So here recently I’ve decided to go in and buy new parts and fix everything but in the time it sat the fuel pump stopped working. I bought a brand new pump and went to put it on and it still doesn’t work. I’ve tested the pump directly on a battery and it works as it should and I’ve tested the cables that connect to the pump for 12v and we’re good there, just when I hook it up, it doesn’t work. I’ve tested fuses and relays as well and I’m stumped. Am I missing something? Please help! Thank you in advance!

 

Replace the RCM. It contains the fuel pump relay. Did you check the fuses?

 

The fuel pump ONLY has power for 2-4 seconds after you turn the key to "ON", unless the engine starts. If the engine does not start, power is removed from the fuel pump. Your thread title "Fuel pump has power but doesn't work?" is vague, you put a question mark at the end of a statement. Together, all of this leads me to believe your fuel pump is fine, but it does NOT "have power" and you are not getting anywhere because you are making invalid assumptions.

How I would troubleshoot this:
1) Strap the fuel pump relay with a rubber band and turn the key to ON.
2) Is the pump running? (You can usually hear it in the cabin, if not, remove the cover and listen (this means getting under the car).
3) If the pump is not running use a voltmeter to verify 12 volts into the pump, then measure voltage on the ground side of the pump, it better be less than .5 volt. If it is higher, fix your missing ground.
If you have power to the pump and good ground to the pump, the pump is bad. If you do not have power to the pump, replace the RCM.

Or, just replace the RCM as Zeracer told you to.

I carry a spare RCM, both because they fail so much and to help other drivers at Crossfire events. So, put your spare RCM in and see if that takes care of it - it probably will.

 

Here's a video on how to test your RCM:

 

[QUOTE=M60A3Driver;1001617]Here's a video on how to test your RCM:
/QUOTE]
All that does is prove the coil in the relay is good, and it's path to the pins is good. It does not validate unswitch power to the armatures, or switched power from armature to external pin.
Additionally, it does not prove the armature contacts are making contact and providing a low resistance path from source to load.

Measuring the output pin(s) in question, with the module in the car, would validate all of the above.

 

[QUOTE=pizzaguy;1001623]Thank you for the clarification.

 

I’ve checked the fuses and I believe a fuel pump fuse in the rcm, everything was good. I checked the cables for power and got the 12v when I turned the key on. I hooked the fuel pump up to a battery directly to see if the fuel pump was faulty or not and it ran flawlessly as it should being new. Only thing I haven’t done is follow the ground cable all the way up from the pump itself to see if it’s cut/damaged etc.

 

[QUOTE=pizzaguy;1001614]The fuel pump ONLY has power for 2-4 seconds after you turn the key to "ON", unless the engine starts. If the engine does not start, power is removed from the fuel pump. Your thread title "Fuel pump has power but doesn't work?" is vague, you put a question mark at the end of a statement. Together, all of this leads me to believe your fuel pump is fine, but it does NOT "have power" and you are not getting anywhere because you are making invalid assumptions.

How I would troubleshoot this:
1) Strap the fuel pump relay with a rubber band and turn the key to ON.
2) Is the pump running? (You can usually hear it in the cabin, if not, remove the cover and listen (this means getting under the car).
3) If the pump is not running use a voltmeter to verify 12 volts into the pump, then measure voltage on the ground side of the pump, it better be less than .5 volt. If it is higher, fix your missing ground.
If you have power to the pump and good ground to the pump, the pump is bad. If you do not have power to the pump, replace the RCM.

Or, just replace the RCM as Zeracer told you to.

I carry a spare RCM, both because they fail so much and to help other drivers at Crossfire events. So, put your spare RCM in and see if that takes care of it - it probably will.[/QUOTE


Yeah I said it that way so it’s short and gets to the point for quick help. I stated the pump works fine so I know it’s not the pump. I don’t hear any noise from underneath when the key is turned either and I’ve also been under it while someone else turns the key to double check. I’ve never heard of your method #1 before, could you maybe explain how to go about that? How do I go about strapping the relay down with a rubber band, how does that work? I’m open ears to new knowledge or methods to make stuff work so by all means, educate me! Haha I’ve tested the cables that connect to the fuel pump with a voltage meter, I got the 12v needed but I didn’t know or know how to check the negative side to see if that’s in order. I also wasn’t aware that you could just replace the RCM and it would fix it hopefully. Thanks again in advance!

 

[quote=KENNESSY;1002264]I'll bet your RCM is bad. Here's a video on how to check your relays inside the RCM.
You can wrap a rubber band around the fuel pump relay to make it stay in the on position. Look at the video and you will see how the relays move. When you put the rubber band around the relay, it forces the relay to send power to the pump.
you can send your relay out to @tighed1 to be rebuilt. You can also get a spare relay from Needswings, Amazon, ebay, Pelican Parts, FCP etc... and see if that solves your problem.