Originally Posted by Mike-in-Orange

OK, I picked up one of these buzzers at Radio Shack today and just spent the last 20 minutes or so installing it. That time included gathering up everything I needed and putting everything away when I was done. I mounted the buzzer outside the fuse box with some double sided 3M tape, securing it to the adjacent body panel.

I really like how it isn't terribly loud and annoying, just enough to confirm that the doors are locked/unlocked. Once again a big THANK YOU to corfire for the how-to on this!

Originally Posted by BRappaport

Mike in orange,

Which model buzzer did you buy?. I also want a buzzer that is not loud...just an acknowledge tone that the doors are open or locked.

Thanks

Originally Posted by corfire

Here are some more details about the installation with diagram and picture attachments:
The Remote Keyless Entry Relay is located under the cover on the under hood fuse panel. You need to remove the panel lid & cover, not just the lid to find it (See Pic 2 & 3).

The relay is on the driver’s side of the panel closest to the windshield (Pic 4 & Figure 2). I added the ‘tone’ buzzer inside the panel near the front and ran the connecting wires between the two staying clear of the fuses.

To make connections to the relay, I pulled the relay out and made my two connections to pins 85 & 86 on the bottom of the relay using small gage solid wire that I had on hand. In the circuit, pin 85 is connected to 12 VDC via fuse 35. Pin 86 is switched to ground as the relay is operated. I wrapped and squeezed the stripped solid wire around the pins, then dressed the ‘tails’ up the side of the relay on each side and taped them under tension against the relay (Pics 5 & 6). I decided not to solder them to the pins, because the connection seemed to be good and the buzzer is very low current (10ma). You could solder them, and I might if the connection proves to be intermittent later. However, one must be very careful not to apply excessive heat, because the internal relay pin connections could become damaged. Just a warning to proceed with soldering at your own risk. Of course, all of what you will be doing is at your own risk! By the way, you could make the connections in other ways. This just seemed to be the easiest to me. Here’s another warning. If you decide to use stranded wire, the stripped wire should be twisted and flooded with solder before trying to wrap it onto the relay pins to make sure that no loose strands short to other pins on the relay.

I did make solder connections between the relay and buzzer wires, and covered with heat shrink (Pics 7 & 8). Any other insulated connection method could be used. It would probably be a good idea to pull fuse 35 before re-installing the relay with the buzzer connected. However, I did not! Once the relay is re-inserted, the buzzer should make some noise along with blinking of the lights when the doors are locked or unlocked using the key fob.

THIS IS ACTUALLY EASIER THAN IT SOUNDS! Just pull the relay, connect the buzzer, and re-install it. The buzzer can be placed under the fuse block cover or outside the cover if you want it to be louder.

Originally Posted by BRappaport

Confire, I believe you are right that fuse 35 should be removed while doing the work. Can you tell me where it is located? Thanks

Originally Posted by corfire

It's located in the fuse block under the hook. The same block that the relay is in. See the original attachment or the one attached below. It is near the buzzer location on the diagram.

Originally Posted by BRappaport

Thanks, Confire, for the info and the quick response. I did not notice it in the original diagram...to excited about your great post! Also, I had gone thru 2 years ago trying to reprogram the computer with my dealer for the "chirp" with the "Neitherland" coding, but they could not make it happen. Even tried a Mersedes dealer with no luck either. Thanks again for your clever and professional posting. GREAT JOB!!!!!!

Best Regards,

Ben

Originally Posted by corfire

Originally Posted by danimal

The manager at the Radio Shack that I went to was very helpful and let me compare the sound of 4 of them to decide. He opened the packages, brought up a 12v battery to the counter and we tested each one. Not sure if I was just lucky, or not, but it is worth asking to hear before you buy. I decided on the 273-060 beacuse it is just a little louder and a little higher pitched than the other.