Checked Forum more and now seems like it could be skreem module. I saw one simular ,his was fixed by getting the halo ring is this separate from module, If so seems worth a try.Also no codes on OBD scanner.Last does anybody know a place in Orange County they trust to do this.This Forum has been very helpful. Just seems like the more I know about this problem the less likely a DIY.Thanks Aaron.

 

Yes the halo is separate.. haven't delved into it.. but it's mentioned in the sticky ignition fix threads..
Here is the link to several documents on the cars.. if you haven't grabbed them... do..

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

"If" you opt to give that a shot first.. User Mrmopar is our resident parts-salvage man.. He has a thread in the for sale..vendor section.

 

Many thanks tighed1
The engine light on my Crossfire kept going on and off randomly. Thanks to your post my mechanic found 5 (yes FIVE) bad soldering points on the RCM.
5 drops of solder later and no more problems.
My mechanic works for Mercedes, he said this is a very common problem.
All the best from Portugal.

 

I took my RCM out and inspected it under an optical scope at work and found 20 cold joints. Luckily it never left me stranded. One of the electrical technicians is removing all of the old solder, deoxidizing the leads and resoldering.

I snapped a few pics under the scope.

 

Can NOT get any clearer than this!

 

Hi Guys,

I am having a similar issue although mine is a bit different...

My crossfire 04 coupe will kick over but then stall immediately, so you turn the key, engine starts, revs go up as usual, but then revs fall and engine stalls. (BAS/ESP light comes on)

• I can sometimes get it to start by revving the engine as I kick the engine over.
• The car will stall on me occasionally while driving (usually in the lower revs when coming to a stop)
• I managed to get the car to stall whilst idling, and turning on ALL electronics, heaters, lights, cd, etc
• If the car wont start and keeps stalling, I usually have to wait a while then it will start.
• Sometimes after getting it started pushing on the accelerator hard and fast will sound like the engine is about to choke and die and the revs do not go up until 2-3 seconds delay. Inversely if i accelerate slow and gradually the revs go up fine and the engine does not sound like its going to choke. This happens whether in gear or neutral.
• The car has had an ongoing issue for 6 months (even before it started to stall/die) where starting the car the revs would go up and then come down almost to the point where the car would stall but then shoot back up and idle as per usual.... this is the root cause I believe where the issue began and over time led to this whole issue of the car stalling while driving or not starting up!

I have already re-soldered the RCM solder joints, even though they all looked smick and clean with no cracks or issues form what I could see. The Relays themselves look clean also (no corrosion there).


My mechanic has pulled the following codes:

• P0221
• P0100 - could not clear
• P0410 - could not clear

Could you guys please guide me on what else to troubleshoot or try? If it's not the RCM in my case could it be:

• Camshaft Sensor
• Crankshaft Sensor
• Wiring going to the RCM
• Car Battery
• Air Injection System
• Air Pump
• Check Valve

 

P0221 & P0100 point to the MAF & throttle body.
The other is the air injection pump, and since you say the contacts are OK in the K40 module, I'd expect wiring or the pump itself as that fault.
As to the first 2, and the idling issues, I'd have to first try cleaning the MAF/IAT sensor and make sure the wiring and plug is OK. The throttle body is another matter :
I'd first remove the TB and then pop the clips off the plastic cover. You will see a 3 or 4 bladed wiper contact inside, this is the TPS ( throttle Position Sensor ). Clean it up with contact cleaner and see it that helps. If not then replace the throttle body.
If it's the OEM 68mm TB ( non-SRT6 ) car - then I'd replace it with a 74mm one .
74mm : A 113 141 0125
68mm : A 112 141 0125

 

[QUOTE=dom03;719643]Hi Guys,

I am having a similar issue although mine is a bit different...

My crossfire 04 coupe will kick over but then stall immediately, so you turn the key, engine starts, revs go up as usual, but then revs fall and engine stalls. (BAS/ESP light comes on)

• I can sometimes get it to start by revving the engine as I kick the engine over.
• The car will stall on me occasionally while driving (usually in the lower revs when coming to a stop)
• I managed to get the car to stall whilst idling, and turning on ALL electronics, heaters, lights, cd, etc
• If the car wont start and keeps stalling, I usually have to wait a while then it will start.
• Sometimes after getting it started pushing on the accelerator hard and fast will sound like the engine is about to choke and die and the revs do not go up until 2-3 seconds delay. Inversely if i accelerate slow and gradually the revs go up fine and the engine does not sound like its going to choke. This happens whether in gear or neutral.
• The car has had an ongoing issue for 6 months (even before it started to stall/die) where starting the car the revs would go up and then come down almost to the point where the car would stall but then shoot back up and idle as per usual.... this is the root cause I believe where the issue began and over time led to this whole issue of the car stalling while driving or not starting up!

I have already re-soldered the RCM solder joints, even though they all looked smick and clean with no cracks or issues form what I could see. The Relays themselves look clean also (no corrosion there).


My mechanic has pulled the following codes:

• P0221
• P0100 - could not clear
• P0410 - could not clear

Could you guys please guide me on what else to troubleshoot or try? If it's not the RCM in my case could it be:

• Camshaft Sensor
• Crankshaft Sensor
• Wiring going to the RCM
• Car Battery
• Air Injection System
• Air Pump
• Check Valve

[/QUOTE



Almost sounds like a vac leak to me, have you tries a can of ether under the hood while the car is running with the engine cover off lightly spraying ether around the vac lines (keeping the ether away from the intake? If you have a vac leak the idle will jump when it sucks the ether in, you'll have one leak at that area. Fix that one and test more until you can lightly spray ether and have no more idle jumping (remember to keep it away from the intake or you'll have false positives). Just a thought!

 

I would also advise to keep it away from your face or you might be face down in the engine having a false positive ......
Just sayin

( BTW: these are the same symptoms I get if I forget to plug the MAF back in when I have the CAI off - did that once when I had it off for some fresh silver paint )

 

Well, if people cannot safely use ether then your correct and just bring it to someone else. Just saying... I did say 'lightly', just took for granted the person operating the can would not look into the nozzle and press the button.


OP didn't mention anything about having the MAF unplugged did he? Sometimes I just read too fast... It is a good idea to check the MAF connection as wires/connectors sometimes loosen up. Just hope it isn't damage caused by water or moisture buildup. If it is, it may be elsewhere...

 

You read my mind.. LOL.

Propane torche ... of course don't light it first..

 

I do not think you should be using ether unless you are into DIY surgery and then not on yourself.
Sleeping on the job is not recommended.

 

Oh well, if you don't want to use ether, use ethel. If you chose either, neither, or something else it is entirely up to you!

 

You shuda just called it "Diesel Starting Fluid", then everyone wuda been kool ......

 

Eye protection is vital too I have learned many times. Ask the man who has ... one.
I even wear shades while lighting my BBQ

 

No, what I shoulda done was not posted LMAO! He he he he he

 

I agree with the advice you have been given so far.

However-
It bugs me that you have three codes that, I believe, are not easily triggered by one another or by any one problem.

Then, there is the hint I put in red above. You CANNOT stall an engine by increasing it's electrical load at idle, this is because the alternator cannot "load" the engine that hard at such low shaft speeds.

So, why did the engine stall? I would guess that it stalled because you put such a load on the electrical system that the system voltage went low enough that the various control modules could not operate.

I smell a problem with the electrical system.

Go back and take the battery cables off the battery and look for corrosion.
Inspect the ground lug on the end of the battery negative cable where it attaches to the chassis.
Verify the integrity of the connections on the alternator and starter (alternator output is carried to the starter solenoid's battery side, then back up the battery cable to the battery).

Take the cover of the RCM/ECM-PTCM/BCM box and look for corrosion or evidence that water has been in there.

Take the cover off the little black box ahead of the battery where you will find three fuses. Make sure all nuts are tight, that there is no corrosion or water in there. ALL of the current to run the car goes thru that box except for the alternator charge current and the starter current.

If you can get the car to run, measure (ad idle or up to, say 2000 rpm) the voltage from ANY fuse to ground - in the fuse panel on the left of the dash. (The one you have to open the driver's door to get to.) You should see at least 13 or so volts there with the engine running and alternator charging. If it is low, let's find out why.

I just suspect low/noisy electrical power.

But I COULD be wrong and alax or GG may be who you need to listen to.

 

After my pickup decided to go for a marshmellow roast after I cleaned the TB inside and out with a flamable liquid.. carb cleaner.. I learned I had a spark plug wire shorting out.. and not to do that again.. Propane will be my new best friend vacumm leak detector over anything flamable and sprayed. At least if it's "flame on" time.. I can remove the flame instantly.

 

PG you may be 100%, I am just offering alternatives that might be tried before the wallet comes out with credit cards involved. It also could be a combination of these, or none at all. I hope we don't get into a 'who's right and who's wrong here we all want to help and solve the OP's peoblem. One caveat I will add to your post PG is for the OP to be sure he disconnects both the negative (first) then the positive (second) cables from the battery before looking for corroded cables. Sometimes folks just forget and take a wrench to a nut or bolt and if it has the potential to short it will not only be messy (in my case double messy cuz I'll probably crap myself) with a huge arc of current, but also the price to fix anything blown or melted before locating where the original problem was. Remember to connect the positive first then the neg when reconnecting! I thought about the load and low idle but the surging got me thinking the vac leak

 

And YOU may be right. I sure don't know.

But I smell an electrical problem. Of course, we are ALL trying to diagnose a problem with only what is posted here.
There is NOTHING like being there, to get to the bottom of a problem....