I already did a write up on the rears. It can be found at the link below.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-write-up.html

now for the fronts. i was told thatg the only way you can do the fronts is with a spring compressor. but i have done each side in under and hour without a spring compressor.

step 1 - loosen lugs on the front tire
step 2 - pop the hood and look at the top of the struts. their covered wih a black rubber piece. take off the nut and the metal washer and rubber bushing.
step 3 - jack up the car and place the car and jack stands
step 4 - take off the plastic belly pan the cover the oil pan

FROM HERE ON IN ITS ALOT OF JACK PLACEMENT. THE JACK HAS TO BE IN TH RIGHT SPOT ON THE CONTROL ARM TO GET THE RIGHT ANGLE. HAVE TO MOVE THE JACK AROUND ALOT

step 5 - there are two torx bolts on each of the two ends on the control arm. (YOU DO NOT NEED A TORX SOCKET TO DO THIS JOB). the nut size is a 22mm. make sure you have one i had to get a buddy to buy me one and drop it off to me.

DO NOT REMOVE THE SWAY BAR FROM THE CONTROL ARM!! NOTHING WILL EVER LINE UP!!

step 6 - take off the nuts off both sides. get the jack at the right height that the stress is not on the bolts. the bolts should come out with a light tap from a hammer. may need to change possistion of the jack for each bolt.
step 7 - after each of the bolts are out lower the jack. you may need to use a pray bar to get both bushing out of their place where you took the bolts out.
step 8 - lower and remove the jack and the arm should drop down.
step 9 - the spring should now have no tension on it and you may need to use a pray bar to get the srping off the control arm. takes little effort.
step 10 - if the spring pad dose not come out with the spring make sure you reach up where the top of the spring sat and take down the spring pad. makes it alot easier on install.
step 11 - mark the spring where you want to cut. measure it some how so you can match it on the other side.
step 12 - make the cut. i used a grinder with a metal cutting blade. cut threw like butter. picture of tool below
step 13 - i spray painted the cut tip with paint to prevent rust
step 14 - place the spring pad on the top of the spring and place the spring back up and seat it evenly in the control arm.

FROM HERE ON IN AGAIN ITS A JACK PLACEMENT GAME

step 15 - first install the two control arm bolts. the bolts are notched and can only go in one way correctly. so double check before install on witch side and witch way the bolts go in.
step 16 - tighten up the two 22mm bolts
step 17 - place jack under the middle of the control arm and guid the top of the strut back threw the hole while you jack the arm up.
step 18 - install the rubber bushing and washer and tighten up the strut nut.

DO OTHER SIDE SAME STEPS

step 19 - put the whell back on with the lug nuts.
step 20 - install belly pan
step 21 - drop the car and tighten wheel studs.

thats my write up. thank you. some pics are below for reference.
-Joe Carter

 

 

OK, Just a quick ?, between step 5 and 6, is it "do NOT remove" or "do now remove"?? If the wrong way it'll be a bad thing I think.

 

 

*********************
FINISHED PRODUCT
1 COIL ALL ROUND. ALITTLE OVER 2 INCH DROP ALL ROUND
*********************

 

Please reply to post three! Thank you!


I see you fixed it thanks!

 

its do not.
thank you very much. its good to proof read some times lol. thanks for the heads up

 

That drop looks perfect! How is the ride quality now? Do you think your going to keep it like that, because isn't it bad to cut your coils? thats just what I've heard, but this is such a nice look for no cost. Finally, where in North Jersey are you?

 

my pleasure

 

removing the bolts are not only dangerous and tedious to get back in under the pressure of the spring you have also removed the alignment of the car. now you spend a 180$ to get it properly aligned when you could have spent that on a proper spring compressor and done the job in less time safely.
i have doen this both ways and would never try it again without the compressor. 30 min each side with it and no worrys about getting hurt

 

i felt safe the entire timenot enough tension to really be dangerous. your putting a little tesnsion with the jack, nothing to be afraid of. and about the alightment, when you lower you car an alignment is needed either way if u want to do it by the book. i undertand what your saying i dont disagree with it would be easier with a compressor but this way is very doable and easy. and get the job done in just under an hour eacxh side.

 

if you dont think 400 plus pounds of spring tension can do any damage you are sorely mistaken. of course it CAN be done this way. you could also remove the wheel and work on the suspension with no jack stands but is it safe? hardly.
try it once with the proper tools and you wouldnt even think to do it the other way

 

Alright well thanks. I just wanted to do a write up for anyone that would like to try it this way. That's all. But thank you for the heads up bro.

 

Thanks for sharing your spring mod with us 725. I'm sure some of us will benifit from it, including me. Keep up the good work

 

i am going to keep it like this for awhile. i keep changing things when i am bored lol. but the turns seems to have alot less body roll and feels stiffer. the coils arent always the smartest way to lower the car but it works and its free. i love the ride. its a little bumpy but the firmness on the turns overcomes it. feels alot more fun to drive and looks real nice. good stance. i am in the morris / essex county area

 

Yah it's def not the smartest way, but thats the best looking drop you'll get without going to coilovers plus its free haha I might do this just to try it out. I'm in bergen county, so I'll hit you up if I have any issues lol

 

Definitely have to meet up some time an go for a cruise. I know of many car meets all week every week if you would want to join some time. And feel free to get in contact any time about anything. I'll give you a hand if you need it.

 

Old thread, but I had to mention as I did the job a few weeks back and can't understand the sway bar comment.

I personally found it a lot easier to install and align the rear bolts of the control arm when sway bar was not resisting the procedure.

 

i know this is an old thread and i just finished changing my control arms. If you tighten the control arm bushing bolts prior to having the suspension loaded, your new bushings won't last long. Load the suspension at ride height before tightening them. other wise you will twist the bushing when you jack up the arm to compress the spring.

 

I didn't have to remove the control arm bolts in the first place. Disconnect the shocks and sway bar. Push down on the control arm with your foot and the spring will just pop out. It was a bit of a pain to reconnect the sway bar afterwards. Both control arms must be raised up to align the bar into the brackets....easily. I was messing with shocks, springs and ride height constantly and got good at it.
I may be forgetting something. Age.......

Les