Rcm
Open the rcm.
Turn the key to the ON position.
Check if the engine control relay is engaged.
If not, relay is bad (cooling fan will spin up REALLY fast). I can replace it.
Turn the key to the ON position.
Check if the engine control relay is engaged.
If not, relay is bad (cooling fan will spin up REALLY fast). I can replace it.
[QUOTE=tighed1;918241]Open the rcm.
Turn the key to the ON position.
Check if the engine control relay is engaged.
If not, relay is bad (cooling fan will spin up REALLY fast). I can replace it.[/ The first time I tried it, it was with the replacement key, I haven't tried the old one. After I did what I thought was reprogramming the key. It cranked for about 3 seconds.The instrument panel lit up and all switches work. The cooling fan started running in about 10 seconds. It hasn't cranked over since.I have to check about whether the RCM does anything or not in a while. Have to go get some Propane first,lol ! you guys are the best!!
Turn the key to the ON position.
Check if the engine control relay is engaged.
If not, relay is bad (cooling fan will spin up REALLY fast). I can replace it.[/ The first time I tried it, it was with the replacement key, I haven't tried the old one. After I did what I thought was reprogramming the key. It cranked for about 3 seconds.The instrument panel lit up and all switches work. The cooling fan started running in about 10 seconds. It hasn't cranked over since.I have to check about whether the RCM does anything or not in a while. Have to go get some Propane first,lol ! you guys are the best!!
[QUOTE=1951sms;918243]
I have just got my wife to turn the ign switch while I check the relays. None of them click of any movement at all. The cooling fan does come on within a few seconds.
Open the rcm.
Turn the key to the ON position.
Check if the engine control relay is engaged.
If not, relay is bad (cooling fan will spin up REALLY fast). I can replace it.[/ The first time I tried it, it was with the replacement key, I haven't tried the old one. After I did what I thought was reprogramming the key. It cranked for about 3 seconds.The instrument panel lit up and all switches work. The cooling fan started running in about 10 seconds. It hasn't cranked over since.I have to check about whether the RCM does anything or not in a while. Have to go get some Propane first,lol ! you guys are the best!!
Turn the key to the ON position.
Check if the engine control relay is engaged.
If not, relay is bad (cooling fan will spin up REALLY fast). I can replace it.[/ The first time I tried it, it was with the replacement key, I haven't tried the old one. After I did what I thought was reprogramming the key. It cranked for about 3 seconds.The instrument panel lit up and all switches work. The cooling fan started running in about 10 seconds. It hasn't cranked over since.I have to check about whether the RCM does anything or not in a while. Have to go get some Propane first,lol ! you guys are the best!!
Well I have the RCM back from tighed1. Didn't help, so at least one thing is without question. I have taken apart the old FOB and the recent one bought through the Girl I bought it from. Swapped the Chips back and forth hoping that would help but it didn't.Does the Circuit board inside the FOB make any difference with it starting?
Email me tighed1@hotmail.com
I Hooked up both my OBD tools, Quick Links OBDII/EOBD CODE READER & ELM 327 INTERFACE V1.5a CODE READER neither one will get into my ECM. What does this tell me?
But given all you have done with the car, I'd not know where to start. Sounds like you'd changed RCMs, the battery, a ground cable and did I read that right - you changed the ignition switch assembly? Is everything plugged back in?
Have you measured to see if power is really getting to the ECM when you turn the key on? (Im thinking blown fuse or a connector somehwhere not plugged in all the way).
It may be that the ECM is not powering up. If the ECM powers up, most any OBDII reader should talk to it, I would think so, anyway.
But given all you have done with the car, I'd not know where to start. Sounds like you'd changed RCMs, the battery, a ground cable and did I read that right - you changed the ignition switch assembly? Is everything plugged back in?
Have you measured to see if power is really getting to the ECM when you turn the key on? (Im thinking blown fuse or a connector somehwhere not plugged in all the way).
But given all you have done with the car, I'd not know where to start. Sounds like you'd changed RCMs, the battery, a ground cable and did I read that right - you changed the ignition switch assembly? Is everything plugged back in?
Have you measured to see if power is really getting to the ECM when you turn the key on? (Im thinking blown fuse or a connector somehwhere not plugged in all the way).
A photo of the SKREEM.
The SKREEM and how it looks behind the dash panel. CLICK
Last edited by onehundred80; Feb 7, 2019 at 10:00 AM.
2) Like Dave said, that is possibly the wires to the ring - find out where it goes, if it goes to the ring around the key, then plug the loose end into the connector on the SKREEM, your nightmare may be over at that point.
I also asked if you changed the ignition switch, but you didn't answer. If you are not going to READ my posts and ANSWER my questions, you are beyond help. I cannot diagnose your car - I am not standing next to it, YOU ARE. YOU are my eyes and ears. I am tired of saying this over and over, seems like, in the past year, everyone I try to help half-way reads my posts and responds to only part of what I ask. THIS is why I don't post here as much as I once did, life is too short for this.
It’s not to same color wires. There’s not a interior light wire is it? Does that halo fit only one way? The wires going to it connect to the top of the switch.
1) The service manual, you can download it from here on the forum.
2) Like Dave said, that is possibly the wires to the ring - find out where it goes, if it goes to the ring around the key, then plug the loose end into the connector on the SKREEM, your nightmare may be over at that point.
I also asked if you changed the ignition switch, but you didn't answer. If you are not going to READ my posts and ANSWER my questions, you are beyond help. I cannot diagnose your car - I am not standing next to it, YOU ARE. YOU are my eyes and ears. I am tired of saying this over and over, seems like, in the past year, everyone I try to help half-way reads my posts and responds to only part of what I ask. THIS is why I don't post here as much as I once did, life is too short for this.
2) Like Dave said, that is possibly the wires to the ring - find out where it goes, if it goes to the ring around the key, then plug the loose end into the connector on the SKREEM, your nightmare may be over at that point.
I also asked if you changed the ignition switch, but you didn't answer. If you are not going to READ my posts and ANSWER my questions, you are beyond help. I cannot diagnose your car - I am not standing next to it, YOU ARE. YOU are my eyes and ears. I am tired of saying this over and over, seems like, in the past year, everyone I try to help half-way reads my posts and responds to only part of what I ask. THIS is why I don't post here as much as I once did, life is too short for this.
I'm sorry about not responding fully on this but here goes : I have replaced the Ignition Switch,SKEEM with Halo, ECM all from a running car. Didn't do anything different. I have tested the OBDII connection and the pin 16 was good. pin 4 Resistance was good, Put a new brake light switch in it, it was bad,Checked Fuse 14 and it has good voltage.
I do use it, I had noticed the the wire coming out of the old Halo was separated at the Halo. only one wire was attached. The newer one was good there but they just cut it to get it out, I used my wire and soldered my end onto it.
Last edited by 1951sms; Feb 21, 2019 at 09:53 AM.
You had better say what happens now when you turn the key, you have various things happen in earlier threads, so let’s start over with the current happenings. Any codes set?


