I am trying to go about lowering the XF and i cant really find any good info one cutting N/A springs. I want to lower the car about 2 inches amybe a lil more trying to get the fenders almost flush witht the tire, without any rubbing and excessive camber.Any thoughts?

 

1.5 coils off every coil i am still trying to achieve that fitment and have pulled them off and cut an inch at a time about 10 times. any of the older guys will tell you 1 coil is enough but to get it down to the tire will be alot closer to 2 coils. If you look in my gallery the second picture that is not on the lake is right after i cut 1 coil off the rear and 3/4 on the fronts.

 

I was thinking at minimum of one coil.... From all the pics in everyones gallery i want lower.I was gonna start with 1 coil. I want almost neutral camber and dnt wanna have to roll the fenders or anything. Did you have any issue with the front wheels top of the suspension the bolt rubbing or getting to close?

 

I know that i am gonna need the adjustable camber arms for the rear and bolts for the front. Any other help would be much appreciated!

 

Just in case you screw up your springs,, Rob has a set,, i almost bought them last month, jim

 

That doesn't instill confidence in what im doing!!! I am having a suspension shop actually cut the springs.

 

If you're going that low, you'll need more then the repair bolts (kit) to offset the camber added.

You're looking at the KMAC bushing kit ($380).

 

Yes i would recommend you start with around one and remember to allow a few weeks minimum between adjustments because trust me the springs will settle every time they are taken out and put back in. As far as the front bolt i did not run into a problem with how low i am but if you are going for fitment spacers are in your future anyways, i run 12mm's up front now because i am doing a BBK. I also have not had rubbing, but defiantly scraping lol. I am getting very close to getting my fenders rolled and liner trimmed and i believe that becomes more important if you run spacers.

I highly recomend the camber arms and dont thing you can even think about lowering without them unless you have the funds to buy 300$ in tires every 3 months as our camber goes crazy. Let me know if i missed anything. And this forum needs more low cars, more than just lowering springs that is.

I am lower than that pic shows as me and you are going for the same look of no wheel gap.

 

Bushing kit in the front not the back just to be clear. I don't have them and haven't really seen my front camber get to bad... fingers crossed as i go lower.

 

I understand that,,, i had cut one set of mine and the car rubbed whenever i had a passenger, so I bought the K W coilovers,What a F*** up mess that is to adjust, they rubbed worst.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...hlight=Kw+crap

now that i have the KW's I don't like them. for $2000.00 they don't work,, when you have to remove the spring to adjust them " something is wrong" they say their adjustable "there not" when they say you can adjust the height and the spring rate "you can not. so to me, the KW so called coilovers are crap.

every time you want to adjust the height ( adjust them until you get the height you want took 7 times) in and out with the springs to get the height where it would not rub. jim

P.S. I have had the alignment done 5 times on my car,,,then found a guy that could align a lowered car,, now it works

 

I am running stock rims as of now stripped um and fixed curb rash and painted flat black. As far as the front goes one coil cut the needswings bolts should do? And for the rear is it recommended to uses the KMAC kit with the camber arms or the arms just enough? I used the 202 forum link in one of the write ups and built my own, but i used steel tubes instead i didnt trust the alum ones. I was gonna do one coil cut this weekend and instal just the rear arms, would that do or the bolt kits is a def must too? Im finally back for a 3yrs overseas between germany and deployments and my baby needs alot of work to get her were i want, gonna take her to IMPORT ALLIANCE in ATL next spring!!! I Aalso wanna make my first trip up to the DRAGON !!!!!!!!!!!!!



I USED THESE FOR MY ARMS http://www.racingwarehouse.com/product.cfm?InvKey=10891

 

Yes I lowered just the back of mine by 3/4 of a coil. I also had to cut the rubber stopper in my shocks. Do a search, good reading, someone did a write up of how to do it. Good luck

 

From my experience with just eibachs and konis going as low as you want will take some time to get right. Every car is a bit different but up front you will need the K-Mac kit for sure going that low. With 4dot pads and the eibachs i could only get -1.9 and -1.6 up front. The kit is not diy unless you have the tools (ball joint puller to get arms off ( I believe) and a press to get the bushings out/in.)

The rear I'm still working on. With 1dots and camber arms I had rubbing in the wheel well and heavy contact between the sway and camber arms + body. With adj sway links the rubbing was not as much of an issue but the contact is still there. I moved to 3 dot in the rear and that helped but still contact. (And higher looks wise than I want.) The arms are enough to get alignment in spec. the kmacs are not needed but may be better at lower heights as you can still use the stock curved camber arm. Several people have notched the body to allow the sway to travel up more as another fix.

There are plenty of threads with instructions for shocks+springs just do your homework (like the bumpstop trim that was mentioned) before you start so you know what to expect. Again some get lucky and have less trouble than others but there are just as many that have spent $3K+ just getting an inch and some change done proper.

Konis,Springs, Arms and links, K Mac, Spring pads, spring compressor, alignments, labor... ...

In short don't be surprised how deep the rabbit hole can go, getting it right can take some time. If your slow like me there are rubber costs to pay pretty quickly as well, fronts don't last many seasons at -2 daily driving while you figure things out. :P

 

Thats awsome, i went to import alliance in Charrolate this summer and it was awesome. But defiantly only arms in the back, trust me. And i couldve told you there was no point in those "adjustable" coilovers

 

Let me save you some money and time.

Dont need:
1. You don,t need shocks, they are a preference for better ride.
2. Spring pads are a way to fine tune your suspension once you get within half an inch
3. spring compressor is not needed, just undo the front shocks while car is on ground, then drop the A arm once your under with a jack its 2 bolts.
4. dont get an alignment until you let it settle and your happy with it or you waste enough money to buy a new set of tires
5. do it yourself and be proud of your work= no labor

Do need list:
1. Grinder or cutting utensil, dont plan on using a sawzaw lol
2. rear camber arms
3. front k-mac
4. My first time took me 8 hours but now i can do it in 30 mins

 

1. Shocks not required but there are several benefits. Better performance, ride comfort and the adjustables in the rear can be dialed in to help prevent rubbing + sway / camber contact when stiffer.
2. Depending on what random size pads got stuck on from the factory you are most likely going to need some for final adjustment. Mine came with 1 dots up front, I need 5s to clear my current setup with no rubbing. 1s would be rubbing liner front+back as well as the well up front. I bought 1s for the back to get a flat stance but they were too small. With stock sway links the camber arm would hit the sway then the sway would hit the body and then everything bottoms out together. the sound that produces will pucker your butthole.
3. Not needed but fronts are quicker/easier with one. Rears are quicker/easier as you described, the compressor is a pain to use back there.
4. Yes let it settle before alignment but if you end up changing pads and doing other work to get rid of issues another will be in order or at least a check. For me I had one done with the bolts which is when I found out I would need the k-macs. The second was after the kmac install. Driving around at -1.9/2

5. Yes DIY everything you can. For me that meant springs, shocks,multiple pads, camber arms, mb bolts, sway links and lots of tinkering. I could not do the kmacs which is where labor comes in.

Don't get me wrong I wouldn't have it any other way but it has been a lot longer journey than the weekend I thought it would originally take.

 

I am not running stock shocks, i got the KYB shocks. From all the reading ive been doin, what im getting as far as parts is Adj camber arms, Adj sway links,KMAC camber kit,Spring pads(fine tune). The good thing is i have a auto shop on post at my disposal, so labor will be all me. Wondering were to get some Adj sway links at. I would make them if i can find the parts a lil confused with the ends(same as the camber arms????). I trying to do this in stages anyone just done one spring, and what is needed, Im understanding the front bolts should work till i wanna go lower? with the rear arms too...

 

Heres the parts im using for the camber arms!
Speedway Forged Steel 4-Bar Rod Ends, 5/8-18 RH Thread - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Speedway Forged Steel 4-Bar Rod End, 5/8-18 LH Thread, Straight Shank - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
http://www.racingwarehouse.com/product.cfm?InvKey=10891
Plus nuts and washers

Would these work for the sway links?From Pics of the MikeR ones this what i got
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pro-1-Chromoly-Heim-Rod-End-5-8-18-RH-Male,29335.html
Pro-1 Chromoly Heim Rod End, 5/8-18 LH Male - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

With a shorter connecting tube as above.

 

Bump!!!!!!!!

 

Why not get MikeR ones? unless they're no longer availible as he passed away.