I wonder if these would work for adjusting the camber in back. The are priced at $29 each, and $39 each for larger ones.

IMG_20130608_131817_312_zps362a02d0.jpg

IMG_20130608_131846_767_zps307974c0.jpg

 

Do it correctly and you probably would get a rebate in your taxes, which you could plow back into your retirement savings?

 

@gripgrip...I think you ought to find out...would save a lot of us a bunch of money!

 

C'mon Rudy, dont make us even consider this as an alternative. Lets get it going. Lol

 

Got my farm tax number and willing to help any local members out by meeting you there..

 

I think they also offer them in John Deere green.

 

I only see one nutted adjustable end. Also the width of the barrel may make contact with the brace that the oem bracket curves around. And the ball socket ends are normally non-articulating and have poly or urethane inserts to help eliminate squeaking. You'd probably have to apply some thick inserts/washers on each side of the socket ball to lock it down and grease the heck out of it. Just going from the size of the ones I used that were a near perfect fit!

91008001_T.jpg

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post712854

 

Looked to me that the other end had flats on it, but I could be mistaken...

 

Looks to be hollow, I would be worried with the amount of stress on these that it might not hold up well.

I have seen others with ends ripped clean out of the bar...

 

What is the overall length and length of the all thread sleeve.......9" is the length on the others I run. but I pieced them together and cost is about $96 each and looks don't matter as nobody ever sees them anyway. Functionality is key! those look good to me and the other end without the hiem can be setup with a bushing.

 

They have a few different sizes on their website. Also you'll find the specs for each item. Go to tractorsupply.com and search "top link".

 

Will do Anthony

 

Had one of these on my Kubota for the Box Scraper. They are pretty tough, but the the tube diameter is also pretty big. Can't imagine they fit without clearance issues.

 

They are commonly known as a third link. They support a lot of weight in their designed task so I wouldnt be concerned with their strength. They do tend to be quite bulky so interference issues may show up as others have mentioned.

 

I would not be as concerned about the weight but the stresses that are put on that part during spirited driving can be quite extreme, not sure if something designed for this would take that into consideration.

Someone smarter than I will answer, I am sure

 

Totally agree...that's why I went with these.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all57112

These tubes are made of strong, swedged DOM steel with a gold anodized finish for looks and durability.

I was always a little leary of the sets that MikeR designed simply because of the material he used and those same ball socketed ends. The dirt track boys go through these on a regular basis especially when they go the cheaper route and use the SS or aluminum rods which tend to strip easier then the chromoly ones.

 

I will let you know, have had his entire set on the car for about 2 years and they are doing just fine. SS tubing is much better than the aluminum than some others were using...

 

So these are the ones you used for your set up 7 months ago?

91008001-STR..... FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END RH..... 2..... $12.99..... $25.98
91008002-STR..... FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END LH..... 2..... $14.99..... $29.98

How do you like them? What kind of noise do you have if any?

 

Many other auto enthusiast groups, the Jeep/rock crawler/desert racers in particular, have learned to never use tractor supply joints. Those joints are weak and wear fast. That's why there is an entire industry devoted to manufacturing rod ends and links that can withstand abuse. I previously linked to many of those manufacturers in one of MikeR's old threads. As you note, the dirt track racers go through those very quickly, and they use them on the track. I wouldn't run them, and they're not designed to run on any street driven vehicle.

For example, I run a set of custom control arms with Currie "Johnny Joint" rod ends on my Jeep. Sure, they are more expensive than tractor supply joints. But, they put up with a lot of abuse, continue to be quiet, are serviceable, and I've yet to see one broken.

I've never seen an animation of the Crossfire's suspension. What will happen when one of these cheap tie rods breaks? Is it controllable at speed once it breaks?

 

threads and material would concern me more....... I would want a more fine thread and would want to know the stress strength of the metal used. Plenty of Chinese junk going on farm equipment these days