Easy peesy, jack each corner at a time and change each shock as you go, no special tools required.
You have to remove the trunk lower panels, that's easy enough.

 

I happened to be working out in Hawthorne, Nevada, at the time so my options were limited. I ordered the shocks in to be delivered to the shop I used and they just charged me labor.. under $200 if my memory serves. The mechanic didn't think it was an easy job, it was inexpensive for me, but he claimed it was a real pain in the ***...

 

Thanks to all for the replies!

alaxfire, JoeP and I will be doing a group hug for shocks next weekend.

Mine rides much harder than it used to. We'll let you know the results....

 

I just looked-the car must be on the ground to remove both the front and rear upper shock nut and/or hardware.

Maybe thats why the shop said it was a PITA?

 

Not really. You can put it up on 4 jack stands, then use the jack to do the load on each wheel as you change the shock.

 

Or you can do it as a very knowledgeable member showed us once before. CLICK
As I said easy peesy.
Or you can go to maxcichons post #2 in the thread KYB installation help required.CLICK

 

Replaced mine with KYB at 33k no spring compressor they are shocks not struts. Real easy to replace big difference in handling and ride.

 

Yea, I'm at 73,000 so way overdue.

 

Well I'm at 110k... so I'm also way way way overdue.. I'll be ordering some shortly ... I've changed and added coil overs to an 06 Tacoma and it took several hours ... but there was lots of compressing to do

i might need that group hug here in next week or two lol

 

A report card on the swap:

1) my boxes contained everything needed. Someone else's didn't.
2) comparing compression/rebound of old/new was interesting. ~ 150 lbs/200lbs (WAG) and rebound was about twice as slow for the new ones.
3) I would suggest removing all of the top nuts first. THEN proceed.
4) The KYB hardware assortment took a couple of minutes to figure out. Follow the diagrams (no actual words, of course) on the directions sheet.
5) The TOP soft parts should be re-used. KYB diagram shows where to put the new ones underneath.
6) Install the bottom cross-bolt first, Then let the car down, sloooowly while guiding the top rod through the body holes....

Oh, yeah: we had to use a scissor jack to force the rear suspension down to remove/install the shock in the rear. The shocks (old and new) are too long to remove.
The bottom is in a dish and the rod is still sticking through the hole!
The new ones are ~ 1/2" longer. We had to manually compress them and tether them short with cable ties. PITA.

My car rides on Eibachs. Lowered. I did NOT have to remove the bump stops in the new ones. There is a bridge South East of Lineville, AL that I call the "NASCAR Bridge".
At the bottom of a hollow, on a curve, and cambered for ~ 70 MPH. A real attention-getter. Posted speed limit is 45, but I hit it at 70. Didn't bottom out.
This, and the confusion about the soft parts swap probably explains the PITA report from the installer shop earlier in this thread.
Information is the most valuable commodity....

The ride quality has improved a whole lot. ~ 75% of the creaks/rattles that all Crossfire's have went away! Cracks in the pavement no longer bring on a cringe from me in anticipation of it rattling my teeth.

Best $200 I've spent on this car in a loooong time. And George and I got to trade barbs for a few hours: Priceless!

And, I failed to mention: we met JoeP. One of the nicest men I've met in quite some time.

 

Max, we actually did re-use the TOP rubber washer ( flat on top, cupped on bottom ) on all 4 corners.
BTW, Joe opened his boxes and his also have NO upper sleeves ! BUMMER !
I have approval to return my 2 that didn't have sleeves, but I suspect I might be getting replacements that also have no sleeves.

I will just re-use the OEM sleeves with a bit of drilling out as we discussed if this does happen.

 

G.,

yep. My bad. I'll edit the above post. Did you raise your voice to the folks at RA? I would have, with explicit instructions for the shipper/warehouse guy to open the danged boxes to CHECK! "Eyes On" as it were....

 

I just visited the KYB Catalog page. The "Product Image" is accurate. And it shows a boot!

KYB Online Parts Catalog

 

I just did all 4 corners with the KYB's that seem to be a recommendation from many on the forum. The car didn't seem like it was snug in the corners as much anymore, and with 105000 kilometers I thought it was time. Bought the KYB gas adjust 4731 front 4732 rear. Read AND bookmarked this time, some posts on installation. The install went well, but if you are on jack stands give yourself a few hours. What i like about our cars, is that when you lift one point you lift the whole side. One internet search turned up a step by step on the rear, and also included their recommendation of doing the opposite wheel of the jack point you use. Jack the front, change the rear, and visa-versa. I used the top rubber bushing and heavier washer on all 4 since they looked good, fit perfect, and a few others posted they did the same with no ill results. Went for about a 15 mins ride, and so far I like these. They are a bit choppy, but nothing crazy. Corners more snug, dips and bumps handle better as well. I have a large dip going into my driveway and it handled that better as well. Didn't hear any rubbing or bumps, clunks after the install, and it was weird driving with the tunes off listening for stuff. Usually cranked Overall I would recommend these to replace your oem shocks.


2004 SSB 6spd Coupe Annnd....Loving it!

 

How did you get $40 at Rock Auto? I was just about to order some KYB's.

Thanks!

 

The rebate was from KYB, not Rockauto.

 

Arghh! At NTB they wanted $900 to provide/install KYB's, whereas I got for $200 total on Rock Auto and had a mechanic with a lift install for $180, saving a cool $500. Yeah!

However, I went back to NTB where I had a 3-year Alignment deal as roads in DC are so bad, I am constantly needed alignment, so this would be free. But they said, "oh, when you replaced the shocks you should have replaced the springs". Whhhattt? They never even suggested springs when they wanted the $900 for shocks-only. And they said now that they do not even do springs.

The reason they said I need springs is that there is no camber adjustment available at all now with new shocks on, thus I need new springs. I didn't see anyone else mention that they had run into any issues with alignment/springs.

I only have 90K on my 2007 Roadster and didn't see anyone else even bring up spring replacement around the shock replacement discussion. However, the reason I even replaced the shocks (and steering stabilizer that someone suggested in another post, which was $50 and easy-peasy to install) was that I had flat spots on one of my front tires (the other was newer due to flat in sidewall) and since my alignment was fine, NTB suggested replacing shocks.

Anyone have any suggestions? Does that all sound right or should I get a 2nd opinion?

Also, in looking around it doesn't appear that anyone like Rock Auto, PartsGeek, Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts, etc. even carry springs.

I didn't really notice much difference in ride with new KYB shocks, sthough I hadn't really put through paces yet. Maybe a little stiffer, but not much noticeable. the only thing the mechanic noted was it definitely seemed to be ridding higher when he first let it down off the lift, but after I test road a few blocks, it seemed to settle down lower to what seemed like normal.

Any thoughts from someone that know more than I would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

The KYB shocks will NOT in any way change the alignment, and you will only need springs if one is broken, or you are lowering the car.
As to camber, it was NEVER adjustable, before or after the shocks, you have to get the adjustable bolt thingeys for the front, and for the rear a set of adjustable camber links.
I did my rear camber links for less than $100 with parts from Speedway Racing, see : https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ight-rear.html ( post # 14 )

 

It does mention in the repair manual in the front and rear suspension section how to measure the ride height and what to do if it is out of specification, which entails replacing the springs, but I agree with ala unless they're broken leave them alone and stay as far away from NTB as you can they're just trying to upsell you. Or in plain English they're blowing smoke up your butt 😉

 

At 12 years old almost everyone who drives their Crossfire should be changing their shocks. I did the KYB's on Betty last spring before CAA7, and the instructions liked earlier in the thread were right on. The ride quality was much improved, and handling was better too.