Just think of all the past Crossfire owners that'll see your sweet detailed ride slide by them on the way.

Just pray for no rain!

 

Nice! I have been curious about that for my SRT. Do you notice any "seat of the pants" feel in acceleration? Do you have any sound clips of the new sound?

 

Where did you get the emblems? I have been looking for a trusted place to find one.

 

I went with a Desert sage metallic its a Lexus color code 6U3. Still waiting for the shop to paint it supposed to tomorrow.

 

I purchased a 2006 Limited Convertable 6 speed, Inferno Red chrystal pearl. Vanilla and black interior. Looks great. (although I have to purchase the German paint can to bring the steering wheel back to "New" Has anyone done this before? Its over $59 for it to shop here from Germany. I guess I have to sand down the leather a bit.
Had to wait 5 weeks to get a motor vehicle appointment. (covid sucks) Thankfully I had plenty of time to make sure I filled in all the forms correctly. Got home, with plates and a 10 day grace period to have it inspected. Went to the nearest inspection station, only to find out that one of the front springs was broken at the bottom. The mechanic said it was ok to drive back home. My first real drive!! Since so many new people are moving to Vermont, I had to wait 2 weeks for the spring replacement installation.. The only good news was the needswings, had the springs and they came quickly. Finally got to drive my new purchase!! YAY! I still have my 1970 TR6, and havent had a stick in a long time. Took a couple of cruises, and it was like I never had an automatic... it all came back quickly... What a rocket for sure!

 

I doubt you sand the steering it would look like suede, clean it somehow and then paint.Make sure you do it correctly, do not rush into it.

 

Chrysler lists the VANILLA steering wheel as NLA (no longer available) although a FEW parts stores and individual Chrysler DEALERS (not corporate) still have a VERY LIMITED NUMBER in stock. This is the cheapest one I found ($486):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ing+wheel,1320
I can't imagine these will still be available in another year or two. You can try "fixing" it first, but I really wanted mine to be right, so I bought a NEW wheel for mine a couple of years ago when they were still listed and available from Chrysler for roughly $200.

 

Hey, it could be MUCH worse. As you can see they want $1,059 for a CEDAR steering wheel, which was discontinued at exactly the same time as the VANILLA one!

 

In fact Chrysler has now DISCONTINUED EVERY STEERING WHEEL FOR THE CROSSFIRE, not just the VANILLA & CEDAR ones as they initially did. Yep, if you want a NEW wheel you better grab 'em while they're hot!!!
https://www.moparoneonline.com/v-200...steering-wheel

 

Just got our crossfire back from the mechanic after an extensive and expensive round of repairs and upgrades. We bought it last fall knowing it would need some work since the previous owner had put on only about 2500 miles since he bought the car in 2012. We replace the tires, resurfaced all brake rotors and installed Bosch quiet cast ceramic pads. Flushed the brake fluid and transmission fluid, installing new trans filter. New NGK iridium nine spark plugs, valve cover gasket‘s, serpentine belt, windshield wipers, fuel filter and cabin air filter. The car had a clean title but had been in an accident previously. It turns out that it was not repaired properly as it was missing the passenger side inner fender liner, The upper radiator hose had been torn and instead of replacing it they cut the end so there was barely anything holding it onto the water pump. The water pump and power steering pulley‘s were bent so the engine would throw the belt at high rpm. We got a new radiator hose and water pump pulley from needs wings and a power steering pump with poly from a low mileage crossfire on eBay as well as a new Dayco water pump. Also, they had used the old green antifreeze but we flushed the system and filled it with a modern recommended anti-freeze. Installed 74 mm Throttlebody and K & N air filters. The windshield Cowell was broken on the passenger side and so the Finn was missing so I got one from a salvage yard along with the inner fender liner. The a Q cooling fan was seized up and wires had been chewed by mice so I got one of those from eBay as well. Oil change with mobile 0W 40 and the Napa platinum filter. Installed battery cut off switch two temporary Lee address battery drain issue. Stereo was not working when we bought the car and it turns out this was due to severe corrosion inside the wiring harness plug to the amplifier for the power and ground wires from a parent water damage. I got an amplifier with wiring pigtails from a salvage yard for $75. Splicing in the wiring harness fix the problem so now we have an extra amplifier on the shelf in case ours goes bad. The car runs and drives great but after installing the new spark plugs it seems to have Air hard starting problem which was not present with the factory spark plugs. Also vacuumed down the a C system and filled it with Freon. I still need to send our RCM to TightOne to have it rebuilt since we have a secondary air pump fault. Today I mailed our only key to Josh at the Mercedes swap shop to get a new flip key and a couple of valet keys made. Still have a few more things to do but it’s getting closer to where I want it.

 

Wow !..........persistence is your middle name.

Just noticed this post is going on 2 years old. How goes your project ?

 

Just a heads up on the rear subs speakers behind the seats. They have a foam surround which disenegrates with age causing a buzzing/rattling noise. A lot of owners just fix them with a kit from ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30270073321...RoCt4UQAvD_BwE

 

Finally got around to vacuuming the interior of our 2007 Coupe after returning this past Saturday from Eureka Springs XFires GTG. I did wash the car Saturday shortly after I unloaded everything (including the kitchen sink!). We actually did pretty well regarding keeping the interior clean throughout the weeklong trip & event. Outside & inside are both clean; car is covered for next weekend getaway.

Later, Dennis E.

 

i changed my cabin filter , interior smells so much better 😎

 

It took over a week of planning and ordering parts on Amazon and at the local Radio Shack, but I did it - I have installed a permanent radio (GMRS/FRS) in the car for meets and get-to-gethers.

I installed my Kenwood NX-5800 radio system (with boom microphone and push to talk switch on the shifter, for talking while shifting and driving) and high power speaker (so I can HEAR with the top down).

For now, the antenna is a magnet mount affair same as what I provide and recommend to the rest of you. I do plan to do something more permanent, but this beats putting the antenna on the rear deck and forgetting it's there when I want to put the top up. The cable is tied down and routed such that top operation and trunk closing does not damage the cable or interfere with anything.

This radio has FRS and GMRS channels, as well as capability to operate on several of my customer's systems: a local electric utility, my hometown's police and fire channels - as well as my employer's system that serves dozens of customers.

Retail cost for this radio as installed and licensed runs around $1900, but I got this one free because...... people like me.


Below we have the entire setup, the headset boom mic (it's a micrphone only) is laying in the driver's seat, this is a Pyle product and sells for $15 on Amazon.
The PTT switch on the shift is from Sporty's Pilot Shop and is integrated into the boom mic interface. THe head/mic contains all controls for the radio as well as a small (crappy) speaker and microphone.


Below is a closeup of the head.


Below are three photos of the actual radio in the storage area. I grounded it to the stud on the passenger side wheel well, power is fed from the small fuse box next to the battery (I found a 30 amp bolt-down fuse on Amazon that fits). I also ran an "ignition sense" wire to the main fuse panel so the radio goes on and off with the ignition key -but I can bypass this and make the radio power up without the key by simply pressing the power button on the head. But this all means I won't forget to turn the radio off.




The speaker (it's LOUD, this radio has a 15/22 watt output) and boom mic interface. THe interface is a modified Kenwood KMC-35 microphone being used as a boom mic adapter/amplifier.
The small wire you see runs to an outlet that I plug the PTT switch into. The coiled cord goes back to the radio in the storage area.



The PTT switch (with the boom mic) means I can drive even tight curves on the Dragon/Hellbender hill and still talk.


For now, the standard-issue TRAM 1135 antenna is what I'm using. I want to go to something more permanent, but for now, this is it.
The coax is routed and tied down such that it does not interfere with top operation or trunk lid closing. I can unscrew the whip and pass the base under the trunk lid, when the lid is opened, easily.

 

Some other notes:

Routing cables in this car is SO EASY. I had to run several cords from the radio to the passenger cabin, the trim has clearance next to the door on each side and there are channels around the roll bars that make routing and tying down easy.

I had to run a number 12 wire to the fuse box next to the battery and a number 18 to the fuse box on the driver's side. THis was way easier than I thought, I found a path along the passenger side by yanking up the door trim. Mine is an 07 and there is a channel from above the passenger's feet into the box with the RCM, ECU and BCM. THis was SUPER EASY. I then passed the wires out of the box by jabbing an extra tight hole in the feedthru on the side of that box. From there, it was easy to get to where I wanted to go.

SHOWN BELOW:
Exiting the box with the RCM/BCM/ECU in it. The large wire goes to the battery fuse (next photo) and the small wire goes to a fuse tap in the driver's side fuse box in order to sense the key being turned on or off.


SHOWN BELOW:
Until the bolt-down fuse comes in, this is my temporary main fuse.

 

Washed my SRT and found water in the trunk again after the new seal fix. Took the spoiler off and doubled up the gasket material on the outer edges. No more leak! We will see how long it holds.
Repaired the CLP 18 pin connector. Had to modify the female connector for it but it works. I would like to repair it with the correct connector. Does anyone have the part number. I tried a few places and the Dephi connectors I received had the fins on the wrong side and were all too large. Any help would be appreciated. I really don't want to cut it out and splice it out of another car.
I'll post it in the tech section as well.

 

Today I replaced my belt tensioner as well as installed my LM21 Scatter Shield!! Getting ready for the track in a couple of weeks!

 

It's not MY Crossfire, but I got Bob and Patti Tetu's Silver Roadster's top working today.
The CLP/SSM had been wet and was destroyed. (Wet electronics = destroyed)

A replacement, including the last two feet of the wiring harness, cost almost $200 on eBay.
We put the pump in and replaced the last foot or so of cables/connectors and we were good to go....

 

With summer here and no garage I bought a sunshield for the windshield to save the interior and keep it cooler. After looking and looking I finally found one that fits the Crossfire windshield well on Amazon at 53" x 22". Ships in a long box so (doesn't come folded in 1/2 like many that basically ruins them). Stiff enough that there's no need to use the suction cups... just unfold, sit in place and flip the visors down to hold it. We'll see how it holds up. Sunshields are cheap, dashes are expensive. $17.99 on Amazon. Thinking about increasing tint to the side windows next.

Restored the headlights with 3M's Headlight Restoration System that attached to my drill. They came out great considering you could barely see through them they were so chalky.

Poked out the inner-most rubber plugs on each side of the trunk well from underneath to allow for drainage of any water that may leak through the rear spoiler seals. Driver's side was dry, passenger side drained about a cup of water. Glad I caught it in time before the electronics in that well were submerged and ruined. I've no worry about some spray from rain making it's way up into those little holes while driving... If that sealed well were to fill from a leaking spoiler then I'd have real problems.

Leader Accessories 53" x 22" Car Window Windshield Sunshade Cover Foldable Auto Sun Shade Blocks UV Rays Sun Visor Protector, Sunshade to Keep Your Vehicle Cool